Macro - with and without a Macro Lens

i thought the distance it triggers at can only vary depending on the distance the focus is set to on the lens, the point you are focusing at is static so going in or out with the camera should not change that i.e if you set the focus distance on the lens to 30cm move in closer than that to the subject then move out it will trigger at 30cm from subject or vice versa beyond 30cm from subject and move in focus is still obtained 30cm from subject so it should trigger or am i missing something Algi

David, very good Macro shots, I was very impressed to hear that they are handheld!

I've found CIF works OK when you place the subject in the centre of frame with lens slightly de-focussed then turn the focus-ring slowly until it 'catches' and triggers the shutter. Of course, the limitation is that you need your point of sharpest focus in the centre as its only the centre point that is active.

Maybe this technique is not ideal for static macro shots? As I said on my other thread about CIF, (link ) the 'turning focus ring' technique works very well with moving subjects, or even subjects that are not good at staying totally still, and also works well in combination with continuous shooting mode, which would increase the keeper rate.

The technique I always use for macro shots taken 'in the wild' is to leave the focus ring alone and adjust focus by moving myself back and forth very, very slowly until the point of critical focus is achieved, whilst always ensuring the camera is held very steady to my eye. I have tried CIF previously for this type of work and found it is not as accurate as using my own judgement. For static macro shots (where the subject doesn't move) the best approach is magnified live view, especially with the K-01 using focus peaking to assist.

My other tips for getting shots like those in this thread are:

- Don't use ISO's higher than 800, even with a K-5, and keep your shutter speed at 1/80 or so as a minimum. If there is not sufficient light for 1/80 and ISO800, use diffused flash to supplement the light (Pringles Tube diffuser, preferably on an external flashgun mounted on the hotshoe)

- Get down low - you need to be on the same level as your subjects (or even below their level) wherever possible

- Get to know the plants in your garden / surroundings and learn which insects inhabit which areas - you will quickly identify some spots where something unusual can be found and will increase your chances of getting interesting shots

- Don't magnify the shots too much as this tends to lose any sense of composition, cuts the edge of the frame with parts of the subject and can make the images look clinical rather than attractive

- Use builders knee pads so you don't get your knees wet/dirty and make a firm foundation by kneeling with one knee on the ground and your elbows tucked in tight with one elbow on the knee that is not on the ground - this makes for a robust platform to take shake-free shots and allows the freedom to rock slowly back and forth to get the focus spot-on

- Shoot at F8 to F11 to maximise the sharpness of the lens whilst still getting some DOF

- Shoot in RAW

- Try different lens / tube combinations - some lenses make better macro lenses than others - any of the vintage Pentax K, M or A 50mm / 55mm variants make superb macro lenses combined with tubes

- Don't use AF - it is not accurate enough for macro work unless your subject is large

- Practice, practice and practice again - it takes a lot of work to get good at macro, especially when shooting outdoors with lively subjects

Hope this is useful.

Regards
David

I've tested most of my MF lenses using a Novoflex focusing rail which
has mm scale on it. I usually establish exact focus wide open by
LV and tests on a K-5. I then check how much in front and behind
of the 0mm position the Green Beep/Hexagon/CIF triggers and
adjust the micro-focus value so that it's either centred or
triggering when I move the camera in.

Actual Example....
Pentax-A 50mm f/2.8 Macro lens. 950mm from target to sensor position.

Triggered at -12 and +14 Setting -5 in menu.

So there's a range of about 26mm but the DOF is only about +/-7mm
so neither of the 2 CIF points would be in focus.
It might be with the lens at f/8

With macro shots and good eyesight just looking at
the image in the viewfinder is quite good.

David, thanks for those detailed tips, that is very useful. Also Algi, thanks.

thanks Algi, there is always more to these things than you think

Great work Mr Storm

Shaun's looks a bit more tasty though

Thank you Stuey, very nice of you to say so. I agree with you that Shaun's would be more tasty, but then again I don't eat the insects after I've photographed them!

Cheers
David

These are fantastic shots, David.

I nearly fell off my chair when I saw they were HAND HELD !!!

The sharpness is just amazing but the downside for me is that they've made ne feel I should give up trying as I'll never be able to reproduce anything like them.

Once again - great shots, but actually, I won't give up since I'm a 'Scorpio' !

Best regards
Peter

Must be just me then

Very good indeed, David You must have rock steady stance and hands. I've tried hand held with no success at all

Don't ever do that Peter, we can all improve with practice and the right technique; I've spent many hours over the past couple of years trying to improve my macro shots and it does seem to be paying off. I'm a Scorpio too and not disposed to giving up on anything!

Thanks very much Barrie, I always seem to have had a knack of holding the camera steady and don't really feel the need for a tripod for anything other than landscapes. I find it a bit restrictive and would rather trust my hands!

Regards
David