Lunar Eclipse camera settings
I shot this at the end of May this year, K1 with a Pentax 150 - 450 @ 450mm - 1/200th second F5.6 and 100 ISO - Handheld.
I recall the auto settings gave an over-exposed image so went manual.

Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
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K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM

'Photography...it remembers little things, long after you have forgotten....' (Aaron Siskind)

Peter
Pentax K5
Pentax DA 18-55 Mk1, 50-200 (Samsung), 16-45, 55-300 Mk1, 35 f/2.4
Pentax MZ6 + FA28-90, FA50 f/1.4, M 50 f/1.7
Tamron 80-210mm & 28mm

I don't have a cloud filter but my settings from 28 September 2015 here on the edge of Chesterfield were at start F8 1/1000 of a second ISO 200.
It didn't turn red until full. Then i find I used F4 1/30th of a second ISO 6400
Much lighter of course this time as never really dark this time of year.



K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS

Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM

I was surprised at how dark the red period was, and then amused at myself for not realising it would be that way in the first place.

My experience last time (when storms didn't eclipse the whole affair) suggest the blood moon was more than 4000 time darker than the full moon. I knew it was going to be significantly darker but was still surprised at how much darker it was.
Mike
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Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.
.[size=11:].Flickr• WPF• Panoramio
bjolester
Member
Trondheim, Norway
When photographing the Northern Lights I most often shoot at ISO 1600 on the K-5iis, which results in rather noise free images. So ISO 1600 will be my point if departure.
I am going to use either a 300mm lens or a 400mm lens on the K-5iis and am wondering if there is a way to calculate minimum shutter speed in order to prevent motion blur?
Secondly I am wondering what aperture to use. My FA* 300/4.5 is very sharp wide open, but maybe it is best to shoot at f5.6 or even f8?
Here in Norway the moon is visible from about 2220 pm, and is then already at its most eclipsed state (I am sorry is this is non ideomatic English...). I usually use live-view for moon shots, will live-view be possible on the dark blood moon?
I am grateful for any advice on this matter!
Bjørn
PPG
Flickr