Lens Cleaning
Posted 09/10/2011 - 19:24 - Helpful Comment
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The rear element of the lens should need very infrequent cleaning as long as you keep a rear cap on when not in use, even then a blower should be sufficient to remove dust, "muck" should never really be a problem on the rear element if you look after the lens.
As for the front element I use "wet" lens tissues that are designed for both spectacles & camera lenses, I have had no adverse effect from these.
Of course if you really want to avoid cleaning then invest in some DA* lenses, I've had two for a few years now and they have only needed the occasional blast from a blower brush.
As for the front element I use "wet" lens tissues that are designed for both spectacles & camera lenses, I have had no adverse effect from these.
Of course if you really want to avoid cleaning then invest in some DA* lenses, I've had two for a few years now and they have only needed the occasional blast from a blower brush.
Posted 09/10/2011 - 19:45
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Nice to hear that leytono.
It would probably be on a lens like this that you would
gain several stops, especially if it was dirty link
Edit: Just noticed on the link to the distributor that
Mannesty gave:
Until now, the majority of lens cleaners have been simply silicone, alcohol or glycerin based products. Instead of removing the embedded pollution from the pores and surface of a lens, they tended to coat it, thereby defeating the original intention.
ROR has redefined the science of lens care by utilizing a formula of natural ingredients that finally removes the counterproductive, ineradicable microscopic oil residues from the surface and pores of glass and plastic.
So it's not just me calling glass porous
It would probably be on a lens like this that you would
gain several stops, especially if it was dirty link
Edit: Just noticed on the link to the distributor that
Mannesty gave:
Until now, the majority of lens cleaners have been simply silicone, alcohol or glycerin based products. Instead of removing the embedded pollution from the pores and surface of a lens, they tended to coat it, thereby defeating the original intention.
ROR has redefined the science of lens care by utilizing a formula of natural ingredients that finally removes the counterproductive, ineradicable microscopic oil residues from the surface and pores of glass and plastic.
So it's not just me calling glass porous
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 09/10/2011 - 22:40
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Algernon wrote:
It would probably be on a lens like this that you would gain several stops
Algi, I hate to keep banging this gong, but you're driving me bonkers! It would probably be on a lens like this that you would gain several stops
Are you aware that a 1.5 stop gain means almost 3 times more light?
So if the cleaning fluid gains you 1.5 stops just by removing muck from the surface, that muck would have had to be cutting out very nearly two thirds (yes, 67%) of the light.
It's just not a believable claim. 1.5 stops is darker than one of these.
I tell you what, if you believe this sort of marketing claptrap, I have a marvellous universal solvent that I'm sure you'll love. It's non-toxic, odourless, you can mix it with any cheap detergent to enhance its effect, it's safe to use it on your skin, even your lawn, and when you're done with it, you can just pour it safely down the sink.
I can sell you some at the remarkable rock-bottom price of £10 for a 10ml bottle, and for £20 I can sell it in a compact, dehydrated form - all you need to do to restore it to full effectiveness is add some water.
A bargain, I reckon. You up for a few bottles?
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Posted 10/10/2011 - 09:09
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Question is, do dirty lenses actually really matter or does overzealous cleaning do more harm than good. Ok nobody wants fingerprints, but a bit of dust isn't the end of the world.
I'd love to see some evidence of a 1.5 stop gain. That it gets the lens clean I can believe, but almost anything will do that.
I'd love to see some evidence of a 1.5 stop gain. That it gets the lens clean I can believe, but almost anything will do that.
... just another middle-aged guy with a hobby. I have an extreme macro learning site at extreme-macro.co.uk - Pentax-centric, your feedback and comments would be appreciated!
Posted 10/10/2011 - 10:08
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It takes more than a scratch or two to show up in an image, usually as flare. Ironically, the "blooming" of uncoated lenses by age resulted in reduced flare and increased contrast, which is how coating of lenses came about.
A 1.5 stop gain is a pretty wild figure I think. Blooming does increase transmission, if I remember correctly by maybe 0.5 stops.
A 1.5 stop gain is a pretty wild figure I think. Blooming does increase transmission, if I remember correctly by maybe 0.5 stops.
Best regards, John
Posted 10/10/2011 - 12:11
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dougf8 wrote:
I use a microfibre cloth or a Calotherm cloth.
Or if its really greasy a drop of Eclipse and a pec pad.
Eclipse fluid specifically warns against its use on lenses and filters.I use a microfibre cloth or a Calotherm cloth.
Or if its really greasy a drop of Eclipse and a pec pad.
Personally, I'm using 20 year old Selvyt cloths.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 10/10/2011 - 14:46
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gartmore wrote:
Personally, I'm using 20 year old Selvyt cloths.
A link would help ...
dougf8 wrote:
I use a microfibre cloth or a Calotherm cloth.
Or if its really greasy a drop of Eclipse and a pec pad.
Eclipse fluid specifically warns against its use on lenses and filters.I use a microfibre cloth or a Calotherm cloth.
Or if its really greasy a drop of Eclipse and a pec pad.
Personally, I'm using 20 year old Selvyt cloths.
Lurking is shirking.!
Posted 10/10/2011 - 15:44
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link if you
are referring to Selvyt, printed on the side of the Eclipse bottle: 'READ CAREFULLY! Eclipse fluid is not recommended for use on filters and lenses.'
are referring to Selvyt, printed on the side of the Eclipse bottle: 'READ CAREFULLY! Eclipse fluid is not recommended for use on filters and lenses.'
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 10/10/2011 - 15:53
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gartmore wrote:
link if you
are referring to Selvyt, printed on the side of the Eclipse bottle: 'READ CAREFULLY! Eclipse fluid is not recommended for use on filters and lenses.'
My bottle of Eclipse doesn't have such a warning.link if you
are referring to Selvyt, printed on the side of the Eclipse bottle: 'READ CAREFULLY! Eclipse fluid is not recommended for use on filters and lenses.'
Photographic Solutions have this page, where they talk about using Eclipse on lenses.
They also make PEC-12, for cleaning film, which they specifically do warn not to use on lenses (under 'When NOT to use PEC-12'), since it can dissolve the cement between the elements.
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Posted 10/10/2011 - 16:03
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gartmore wrote:
link if you
are referring to Selvyt, printed on the side of the Eclipse bottle: 'READ CAREFULLY! E2 is not recommended for use on filters and lenses.'
OTOH: the bottle of Eclipse (not "Eclipse E2") that I bought from "Just" (AKA "Camea Clean"), see http://www.cameraclean.co.uk/product-detail.php?cat=11&product=118&desc=Eclipse+... clearly states in the title "PS0020 - Eclipse Lens & CCD Cleaner (59ml Bottle)"!!!!!!link if you
are referring to Selvyt, printed on the side of the Eclipse bottle: 'READ CAREFULLY! E2 is not recommended for use on filters and lenses.'
There is nothing on this bottle, nor is there anything on the smaller sampler bottle of E2 that I bought a year or two ago. Also the instructions that came with the original kit (which contained the sampler bottle) from Just at that time states "When PEC*PADS are used with Eclipse they are ideally suited for cleaning camera lenses"
So where is this warning against using Eclipse??:
I have, several times, cleaned the GX10 & K-5 sensors with the PEC*PADS swabs with both Eclipse E2 and Eclipse on them, and then used the same, still slightly damp, swabs on lenses - with the result that the latter are sparkingly clean, and much better than I seem to get with other means.
& BTW, I've been wearing glasses for over 50yrs and I positively hate Calotherm cloths and the like, such as the opticians routinely give you with new pairs of specs, because, after the 1st or 2nd use, they don't clean the lenses but just smear all the muck (especially any "skin grease") across everything!
I just use breath on the lenses and then use clean soft face tissues. This has been pretty-much OK on everything from the early uncoated glass lenses to the latest coated plastic "transitions" lenses - there only being a problem with some early '90s coated lenses which developed severe oil-stain-like blooming when I did this. The opticians suggested that the skin grease might be causing the problem, but it has not happened again for the last 10+ years, so maybe the coatings have changed.
I have often used the same approach with camera lenses, and the results have been reasonable - but not as good as the Eclipse fluid used as described above.
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)
Posted 10/10/2011 - 16:18
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Perhaps they've changed their mind like they did with which camera sensors you could use the various versions on.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 10/10/2011 - 16:20
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So, wiping it on my T-shirt isn't the answer then?
Getting there! Thanks to you guys
Pentax K3ii, Pentax K10d, Kit lens ( 18-55mm ), 50mm f1.7 lens, Tamron 70-300mm lens, Prinzflex 70-162 manual lens, Various old flashes.
Pentax K3ii, Pentax K10d, Kit lens ( 18-55mm ), 50mm f1.7 lens, Tamron 70-300mm lens, Prinzflex 70-162 manual lens, Various old flashes.
Posted 10/10/2011 - 16:26
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quote:3496ace15f="Father Ted"]So, wiping it on my T-shirt isn't the answer then? [/quote]I don't think so!! - and for the same reason that I shudder when my wife does exactly that with her specs!
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)
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392 posts
17 years
Cambridge
If you wear glasses try it on them, not exaggerating when I say it makes you think you are no longer looking through glass (plastic)
Trial lenses are what get placed into the trial frame when you have your eyes tested to see what your prescription will be. Optometrists buy their own link and link for obvious reasons have to be clean to get accurate results for the patient. As you can see they aren't exactly cheap and not about to go using some dodgy abrasive liquid on them anymore than I would on my lenses