Infra Red?

Having seen a few peoples digital infra red shots, I was wondering about the infra red film that Ilford make. Someone here had been experimnenting with it I seem to recall?

Might make an interesting project with one of the film cameras. As and when there is time!

I also was wondering about IR, but with digital, especially going down the simpler route of screw-on filters. Anyone have any experience?

Didn't realise filters were possible? I thought the camera had to be converted (how I have no idea) to IR? I kind of like giving one of the film cameras over to it as if I find it doesn't work very well I haven't spent much!

It all depends on which camera you have, the early DSLRs like the *istDS can be used without any conversion and just an IR filter. Later cameras require the removal or replacement of the filter in front of the sensor.

Film requires both IR film and a filter. Not sure if it is processed in standard B+W chemistry though.

There are some very fine IR pictures in the Your Photos forum right now.

I didn't know that Ken. I still have my first DSLR, and its an *istDS. So I just need to get a filter? I would love to try IR.
David

All these great IR photos make me even sadder than my Ds is dead.

Pseaudo-Infra Red can be achieved in Photoshop from the full colour file, by using Channel Mixer. Hit monochrome, up the red, up the green, down with the blue. The red and green can be adjusted to make sure the tonal range is OK.

Of the Pentax DSLRs I have used, the *istDS, K-r and K-5 respond well to this and the K10D and K20D do not.

The best cameras for this, without modification, are apparently old Kodak 2MP compacts.

PSE has a pseudo infra red option too. It works quite well, but isn't as good as the real thing, and nowhere near as challenging or fun to try.

I have an *istDS with a Hoya R72 filter on my kit lens, great for IR.

Long exposure times, compared to converted ones, but I do quite like the movement in them.

I have a couple in the gallery and also a thread 'infrared @ 60' here

Bought my 52mm Hoya on fleabay for not a lot, great cheap start into IR.

Those shots are incredible!

I have a K200d though, so I take it that this camera wouldn't really work so well at IR? I obviously don't want to start dismantling it!

The basic filter will work fine with the *istDS. I use several cheap chinese ones (different sizes & wavelegths) with my K100d. A little variation in your normal framing technique may also be required as you don't see anything through the viewfinder. (Tripod - frame shot - filter - shoot or aim without the viewfinder either way cover the viewfinder to reduce stray light)

I find focus & exposure can need a bit of trial & error, & it can be difficult to judge what scenes will work well in IR (I was lucky with most of the more open shots in London last month). But it's fun to play with & gives a different view on the world around you!

At higher ISO or with fast lenses handheld shots are relativly practical, this 3 shot pano was handheld:

I beleive the hot mirror on the K200d is significantly stronger than the K100d. But it should still be capable of giving you a chance to play with IR. You'll find it requires longer exposures, but you often want to use a tripod even with the K100d.

Filters can be had for under £10 if you're willing to wait for the variable international post, so it's not an expensive mistake if it's not practical.

Several of your older lens will probably have an IR focusing mark as well, which should simplify things.

I'm glad you pointed out the IR focussing shift. I'd always thought it slightly curious that Pentax had it engraved on every lens considering how few shoot IR.

For anyone who isn't aware of how to use this, you focus normally and then move the focus ring so that the point that was previosly at the normal index is now at the IR index.

That might have been me!

The film is Ilford SFX. Used without a filter it behaves like any ISO 200 B&W film, but add the filter and you get the full effect.

It is developed using standard B&W chemicals, the times are slightly different but it's all explained on the inside of the film box.

I found it worked best with a fully manual camera as apparently some automated metering systems can't handle the effects of the filter and will expose incorrectly. You will need a tripod as you simply can't compose or focus with the filter attached, I opted for setting the shot up normally, then adjusting focus for the IR marker, adding the filter, and knocking seven or eight stops off the shutter speed.

I found shooting at f22 best as depth of field will cover slight focus errors that way (in fact with my 28mm lens I was able to leave it set to infinity and still get perfect landscapes). I used it in a KX and KM so spent a lot of time with the shutter set to "B" timing the exposures with a watch, you will also need a cable release for obvious reasons! Exposures of eight seconds were common, I even saw thirty seconds on occasion and once or twice 90 seconds.

It does work best when there's plenty of direct sunlight about as this makes the IR effect kick in properly.

It's good fun to play around with but you do need considerable patience and locations where you can set up undisturbed for five minutes or so at a time. I was happily wandering around the Elan Valley with extended tripod over one shoulder and KX over the other, but obviously you can't really do this in city centres without attracting unwelcome attention.