Broken binoculars
Posted 13/03/2014 - 13:11
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Be careful, I'm sure having glue fumes right in front of your eye is not a good idea.
Best regards, John
Posted 13/03/2014 - 13:20
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You really have to know precisely what the material is
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 13/03/2014 - 13:33 - Helpful Comment
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I would suggest a Cyanoacrylate.
A contact such as Evo-Stick or Bostick will be too thick, a solvent based may not work as the plastic looks to be of the wrong type.
You could tests a Cyanoacrylate somewhere else on it to see if it sticks. Then try reassembling it several times to ensure it all lines up and removing any small particles. Ensure the joint looks clean. Finally apply the glue, fit together and hold. Wait for a few minutes then leave for 24 hours for it to fully set and not stick to your skin.
Fumes are unlikely to be a problem with Cyanoacrylate.
A contact such as Evo-Stick or Bostick will be too thick, a solvent based may not work as the plastic looks to be of the wrong type.
You could tests a Cyanoacrylate somewhere else on it to see if it sticks. Then try reassembling it several times to ensure it all lines up and removing any small particles. Ensure the joint looks clean. Finally apply the glue, fit together and hold. Wait for a few minutes then leave for 24 hours for it to fully set and not stick to your skin.
Fumes are unlikely to be a problem with Cyanoacrylate.
Posted 13/03/2014 - 13:35
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I know it is plastic but what kind a plastic i have no idea.
The fumes could make mi day very happy....
The fumes could make mi day very happy....
Posted 13/03/2014 - 16:45
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I don't know how expensive your binoculars are but this stuff is expensive but I've yet to find anything it won't stick. Keep it in the fridge after opening - it cures at room temperature.
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-41145-Prism-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B00C7JWDHU
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-41145-Prism-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B00C7JWDHU
Jamie
Posted 13/03/2014 - 16:48
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I'd NOT suggest cyanoacrylate, personally, they tend to be comparatively "harder" than most plastics and can be water soluble to a degree. I'd be more likely to go with an Araldite- style epoxy...
Posted 13/03/2014 - 18:07
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dpm wrote:
I'd NOT suggest cyanoacrylate, personally, they tend to be comparatively "harder" than most plastics and can be water soluble to a degree. I'd be more likely to go with an Araldite- style epoxy...
Epoxy resin - you cannot get a fine film - there is bulk and thus alignment difficult. As for water soluble - It is not normal to put binoculars in water.
I'd NOT suggest cyanoacrylate, personally, they tend to be comparatively "harder" than most plastics and can be water soluble to a degree. I'd be more likely to go with an Araldite- style epoxy...
Posted 13/03/2014 - 22:40
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+1 for Araldite - I'm a great fan
Posted 14/03/2014 - 07:25
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I'm gonna venture here that there was pre-existing damage (recent? who knows) sufficient to put a query on the collimation of the instrument. I'd expect you'll be needing to tweak the alignment after you rebuild.
And for all you epoxy lovers out there- Lidl do a superb one. Cures faster and clearer than Araldite rapid, and doesn't go "off" on the tube over time.
And for all you epoxy lovers out there- Lidl do a superb one. Cures faster and clearer than Araldite rapid, and doesn't go "off" on the tube over time.
Posted 14/03/2014 - 07:39
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Everbuild stixall extreme power will work on any plastic and is superb.
Apply it and wipe away any excess with white spirit and allow to cure.
Apply it and wipe away any excess with white spirit and allow to cure.
Posted 15/03/2014 - 10:49
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Quote:
Gamka wrote:
Epoxy resin - you cannot get a fine film
Well, actually you can!Gamka wrote:
Epoxy resin - you cannot get a fine film
Mix the resin on a piece of sheet aluminium (even thin steel at a pinch) and warm it on a cooker hotplate - it gets very thin/runny and you can apply it with a small brush.
Throw the sheet and brush away afterward, of course.
The trick is to use enough to get a consistent mix - but this can be cheaper than a poor repair.
Geoff
Water can wear away a stone - but it can't cook lunch
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...
X-5
istDS
K2000
P50.
Lenses Digital: 50-200, 18-55 KAF: 28-80.
Lenses KA & K: SMC-KA f2.0, SMC-K f1.4, SMC-K f1.7 Tokina KA 28-70 , SMC Pentax 70-210 F4, Sigma KA 75-300 , Hanimex 500mm Mirror, and the Tamron Adaptall-2 stuff.
and then there's all the M42 kit, and the accessories ...
Posted 15/03/2014 - 19:14
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Thanks for all suggestions and advises. I have used Loctite Super Glue(Cyanoacrylate glue) left it for more than 24h under pressure and it holds quite well. Dont want to put too much pressure on it as i dont want to break it again but the amount of pressure i tried was at least 10x (just guessing) more than when i broke it.
Once more Thanks
Once more Thanks
Posted 16/03/2014 - 20:40
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About 39 years back ... yes 39, I used some SuperGlue - only just around at that time and stuck a 1p coin on some concrete outside my Aunts house. It is still there!
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499 posts
14 years
SLovakia
Can someone help me please to find a very good glue to glue this bits together.
I broke it today by just taking the cap of and the whole thing stayed in mi hand.
I dont really want to spend any more money on a new binoculars so i will try to glue this bits together.
Thanks in advance
Marcel