Bee harvesting

CoDa
Posted 21/07/2010 - 18:16 Link
Taken with the Sigma 28-105mm

[IMG]http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad254/weldingblues/Photos%20for%20comments%202010/BeeHarvesting-resized.jpg[/IMG]

C & C to assist in the learning process please
Colin

“Nobody made a greater mistake than he who did nothing because he could do only a little.”
Edmund Burke (1729 – 1797)


[IMG]http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad254/weldingblues/K-7userbar-red.jpg[/IMG]
Pentaxophile
Posted 21/07/2010 - 19:12 Link
Unfortunately focus is not on the bee, or the flower. I think it's really crucial that the bee is the sharpest point in the photo.
prsjnb
Posted 21/07/2010 - 19:18 Link
Hi Colin,

Main area for improvement based on this shot is sharpness. A lack of sharpness can result from camera movement/shake, incorrect focus and/or the use of too large an aperture. The extent to which one or all were contributory factors in this shot is difficult to say without more information. The DOF in this shot seems quite large (extending both in front of and behind the bee). Logically, therefore, the lack of sharpness must be due to some other factor, which I would suggest was the use of a shutter speed to low to 'freeze' the bee's movement as it gathered pollen. This would also be consistent with there being regions of the flower head adjacent to the bee that appear sharper.

The other thing that strikes me about the shot is its overall 'softness', which may be a result of using the lens at the limits of its design parameters. I'm not familiar with the lens used but even though the word 'macro' may appear in the spec sheet, I would suggest that this claim should be taken with more than just a pinch of salt.

The most dramatic improvement that could have been made in terms of composition is to have waited until the bee, or indeed another, was positioned head on, allowing the antennae, eyes and proboscis to be seen.

Important tip: most people who do a lot of close-focus macro work switch of the AF and work manually.

Keep at it and you'll soon get it right. I would stick with bees and flowers for the moment and leave the smaller and less obliging subjects until you have refined your technique. Butterflies can be fun if you have the patience to stalk them and/or are willing to go after them in the early morning/evening when it is a bit cooler. Alternatively, plan an outing to a butterfly farm/house if there is one within striking distance of where you live. If you can, you should also try to borrow a macro lens. Failing that, consider investing in a close focus attachment for use with your other lenses. A good choice would be the Raynox DCR, which comes with a 'universal' quick-mount adapter and is available in two strengths, of which the lower (DCR-150) would probably be the best place to start. Either version can be had for £45 - £50 and they are of surprisingly good quality: just look at some of the pictures posted in the gallery on this site. Better still, they remain useful even if one decides to invest in a true macro lens.

Hope at least some of this helps and I'm sure others, many of whom are far better qualified than I, will come forward with advice.

Best wishes,

Jon
Edited by prsjnb: 21/07/2010 - 19:20
CoDa
Posted 22/07/2010 - 22:38 Link
Thanks for the comments, In general terms I find that I rush some shots (things flying away, or stinging me etc) that then the shot is not a sharp as it should or could be.

I must learn to stay focused (sorry for the pun) take my time and not rush, I will get there one day.
Colin

“Nobody made a greater mistake than he who did nothing because he could do only a little.”
Edmund Burke (1729 – 1797)


[IMG]http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad254/weldingblues/K-7userbar-red.jpg[/IMG]

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