Air displays

Just got back from the Royal International Air Tattoo. Took loads of pics, but I have to say that there has been a high failure rate, although I like to think that one or two wern't too shoddy. Mainly blurring issues, or possibly focus awry just enough to soften the image.

Here's my question. I have a K20D, newly acquired, and I'd like advice on the best settings for pics of hairyplanes going batty all round the sky. Lens I have at present, main one is a Pentax 55-300, which I find about does on the focal length side.

Any experienced suggestions on settings, ASA, shutter speed, aperture, modes, or anything I've missed. All would be welcome.

P.S. Apologies offered. I have done a search on the board, but couldn't find much. Probably down to the way I searched.

Well, why don't you post some of the less shoddy pictures here.
It's much easier to judge, evaluate and advice on actual pictures.
Seeing your hurricane pic. in the gallery, using the K200D and Tamron, I think you did a pretty good job, and probably were pushing against the boundaries of what is possible, given the used equipment and distance.

With your new combo you certainly have more quality at hand. And from there on skill, timing, experience and some luck come into account.
I think most used are low ISO (around the 100-400 mark, depending on weather conditions), AV mode, Continuous AF and drive and possibly multi AF point selected.( to have a as big as possible net to catch focus)

I haven't done this type of shooting, but it seems the most logical way for me.

HIH,
Martin.

Hi,

Use the following formula to get sharp shots...

Focal length x 1.5 and then multiply by 1.5 again.

So for instance 300mm would need a shutter speed of 300x1.5=450 450x1.5=675

So make sure the shutter is above 675. I know you have SR to give you a few stops benefit but it doesnt work very well when you are panning a shot for a moving aircraft.

Also, have it on af-c, either shutter priority or aperture priority depending on what your trying to achieve, and i use the central point autofocus too.


Matt

Would that not boil down to "multiply by 2.25"?

I am still learning how to take pictures of aircraft in flight. I have been practising on seagulls I have found I get the best results by using a full press on the shutter release so as soon as the subject is in focus the picture is taken.

Yes it would be exactly the same but trying to work out 125mm or 35mm or 85mm etc etc x 2.25 isnt as quick and easy as x1.5 and then x1.5 again is it

It's easiest to say double it and then add a bit and round it up ... It is just an approximation.

Well actually i dont think it is. Say your using a 100-500 sigma. My methid would be 500x1.5x1.5 which is 1125

Yours method would be 500x2+a little which is 1000+

Could be the deal breaker from a sharp shot to a slightly blurred shot.

People do whatever makes it easy for them. I always find it a no brainer to do the 1.5 and 1.5. if x2+a little suits you then the result is the same.

Its not x2 plus a litle, its x2 plus a quarter of the original

Its the same thought process you are using to get the 0.5, so instead of 0.5 you just get the quarter and add it to the double of the range

Actually never thought of it like that. I might just pinch your formula (as long as im not breaking no copyright:lol

Oggy, that's quite interesting what you are just saying. I would like to adopt a method that would allow me to do that also, knowing that its hard to lock into the AF with moving objects I have tried a few methods but none worked successfully.

So have you achieved some degree of success by applying the method you are stating above? Do you get it spot on that way?

I have tried activating the MF on the lens and then trying to focus manually by keeping the shutter releas button pressed and when the subject is in focus the shutter releases but I find that the images do not come really well focused. But I didn't try it a lot, so might even be that it was just sake of the camera.

Would love to find a method that would help me capture moving subjects actually.

Go ahead, I will send you the bill by post .
Seriously now, really that might give you a fraction of less time calculating because instead of calculating twice the half of an amount you would just need to calculate a quarter of an amount, this I mean assuming the doubling of the original figure usually is the fastest one to get.
Getting too mathematical here, may be its time to go watch some TV and leave the PC alone for the deay
But would be interesting to know how you get along with the calculations by the way

I hand hold my Bigma at 500mm with a max speed of 1/500 and as low as 1/125 (for prop blur) with no problem.

You must have steadier hands than me then

Hi,
I used to do a lot of airshow photography back in the 70`s, I used to arrive well before the gates opened to photograph the static stuff, I had a small set of household steps to get shots over the barriers, These days i use a Zigview S2 on a monopod to hold the camera above my head or at ground level (There is a Zigview live out now which is better for camera`s with live view.) For Aerial shots i used 3 camera`s each with a different prime lens fitted, (Zooms were frowned upon by "real photographers" in those days) Each was focused just short of infinity so that i could use one camera for formations another for large a/c and the 300mm for smaller a/c or distance shooting. The 300mm was used with a Kaiser rifle grip which i still use modified for digital remote release. This makes it much steadier and smoother for hand holding. There is a Rifle grip still manufactured in the states i think its called the Bushmaster or something like that which has a variety of digital releases. As regards shutter speeds 1,000th sec or faster is great for jet aircraft but for prop or helicopters then i am afraid that 350th is about the fastest that you can use without it looking if the engine has stopped in mid air! You need some blur in the blades! My friend who sometimes accompanied me used an Automatic Canon A1 and his exposures were consistently too dark for aircraft shot against the sky, My Manual Pentaxes did`nt have this problem as i would take a reading with 1/3 sky in the viewfinder and 2/3 ground (including some grass) This would give me a correct exposure every time. After the show i would stay to get shots of departing A/c (usually very rewarding) and a final trawl of the static park as the light was different by then. by this time the queu for the exit had subsided but i was by then a very tired but happy chappy.

Hi,

I had a look at that bushhawk link grip and imagine using that at man air? Imagine the pilot looking through his window and seeing me holding a rifle grip with a lens on the end (from that distance would look like the end of a gun) i would get locked up