Air displays
Posted 20/07/2009 - 10:01
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PeteL wrote:
My Manual Pentaxes did`nt have this problem as i would take a reading with 1/3 sky in the viewfinder and 2/3 ground (including some grass) This would give me a correct exposure every time.
Now that's a tip worth trying.
My Manual Pentaxes did`nt have this problem as i would take a reading with 1/3 sky in the viewfinder and 2/3 ground (including some grass) This would give me a correct exposure every time.
Posted 20/07/2009 - 10:10
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As others have eluded to, 1/1000s for jets and 1/250s for helis/prop aircraft works for me.
Good panning technique (practice makes perfect!) is crucial too, but the main thing is the shutter speed and I adjust the ISO up until I get the 1/1000s on less bright days.
It's better to have a 'noisy' sharp shot, than a blurred one at ISO100!
Good panning technique (practice makes perfect!) is crucial too, but the main thing is the shutter speed and I adjust the ISO up until I get the 1/1000s on less bright days.
It's better to have a 'noisy' sharp shot, than a blurred one at ISO100!
Posted 20/07/2009 - 11:16
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ttk wrote:
Mike-P will loose the steadiness as he get's Older
I feel old most days
Cloudhunter wrote:
Matt,Mike-P wrote:
I hand hold my Bigma at 500mm with a max speed of 1/500 and as low as 1/125 (for prop blur) with no problem.
You must have steadier hands than me thenI hand hold my Bigma at 500mm with a max speed of 1/500 and as low as 1/125 (for prop blur) with no problem.
Mike-P will loose the steadiness as he get's Older
Posted 20/07/2009 - 11:16
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Tooks wrote:
As others have eluded to, 1/1000s for jets and 1/250s for helis/prop aircraft works for me.
Good panning technique (practice makes perfect!) is crucial too, but the main thing is the shutter speed and I adjust the ISO up until I get the 1/1000s on less bright days.
It's better to have a 'noisy' sharp shot, than a blurred one at ISO100!
Totally Agree
As others have eluded to, 1/1000s for jets and 1/250s for helis/prop aircraft works for me.
Good panning technique (practice makes perfect!) is crucial too, but the main thing is the shutter speed and I adjust the ISO up until I get the 1/1000s on less bright days.
It's better to have a 'noisy' sharp shot, than a blurred one at ISO100!
Posted 20/07/2009 - 12:33
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aminstar wrote:
So have you achieved some degree of success by applying the method you are stating above? Do you get it spot on that way?
I have tried activating the MF on the lens and then trying to focus manually by keeping the shutter releas button pressed and when the subject is in focus the shutter releases but I find that the images do not come really well focused. But I didn't try it a lot, so might even be that it was just sake of the camera.
Would love to find a method that would help me capture moving subjects actually.
It works some but not all of the time Amin.
Oggy wrote:
I am still learning how to take pictures of aircraft in flight. I have been practising on seagulls I have found I get the best results by using a full press on the shutter release so as soon as the subject is in focus the picture is taken.
Oggy, that's quite interesting what you are just saying. I would like to adopt a method that would allow me to do that also, knowing that its hard to lock into the AF with moving objects I have tried a few methods but none worked successfully.I am still learning how to take pictures of aircraft in flight. I have been practising on seagulls I have found I get the best results by using a full press on the shutter release so as soon as the subject is in focus the picture is taken.
So have you achieved some degree of success by applying the method you are stating above? Do you get it spot on that way?
I have tried activating the MF on the lens and then trying to focus manually by keeping the shutter releas button pressed and when the subject is in focus the shutter releases but I find that the images do not come really well focused. But I didn't try it a lot, so might even be that it was just sake of the camera.
Would love to find a method that would help me capture moving subjects actually.
Posted 20/07/2009 - 12:43
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Cloudhunter wrote:
Hi,
Use the following formula to get sharp shots...
Focal length x 1.5 and then multiply by 1.5 again.
So for instance 300mm would need a shutter speed of 300x1.5=450 450x1.5=675
So make sure the shutter is above 675. I know you have SR to give you a few stops benefit but it doesnt work very well when you are panning a shot for a moving aircraft.
Also, have it on af-c, either shutter priority or aperture priority depending on what your trying to achieve, and i use the central point autofocus too.
Matt
Matt,Hi,
Use the following formula to get sharp shots...
Focal length x 1.5 and then multiply by 1.5 again.
So for instance 300mm would need a shutter speed of 300x1.5=450 450x1.5=675
So make sure the shutter is above 675. I know you have SR to give you a few stops benefit but it doesnt work very well when you are panning a shot for a moving aircraft.
Also, have it on af-c, either shutter priority or aperture priority depending on what your trying to achieve, and i use the central point autofocus too.
Matt
I always worked on the principle of not going below the value of the focal length... ie 300 mm lens, 350th of a second etc etc...
What's not clear to me why you multiply by 1.5, and then multiply again by another 1.5.....can you elaborate?
Thanks
Peter
Z-1p, K-1, P50
F50 1.7. SMC-FAs 24, 35, 50 1.4, 85, 135. HD-FA15-30, DFA24-70, D-FA*70-200. The SMC-FA Limited Trinity.
Metz 45 CL-4, AF500FTZ. AF540FGZ.
Some Mamiya and some Nikon, and a Canon T70.
F50 1.7. SMC-FAs 24, 35, 50 1.4, 85, 135. HD-FA15-30, DFA24-70, D-FA*70-200. The SMC-FA Limited Trinity.
Metz 45 CL-4, AF500FTZ. AF540FGZ.
Some Mamiya and some Nikon, and a Canon T70.
Posted 20/07/2009 - 13:00
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As a matter of interest, I took about 650 images at the show, all on one battery, which is still showing full on the indicator.
Posted 20/07/2009 - 18:17
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I met a guy called Stephen Fox at an airshow, you can see from his website he's rather good.
http://www.aviation-photography.co.uk/
His advice to me was to use spot metering, apply +1 exposure compensation, and try to ensure the plane is in the centre of the frame to get the metering right. Certainly, I'd say apply positive exposure compensation. If you don't, you tend to get black dots against the sky. I'd say a lot of the problems at Fairford this weekend were due to the weather. You can tweak all the camera settings you like, but the flat overcast lighting resulted in grey planes against grey clouds.
Fortunately, there were a few sunny patches, on the Saturday at least.....
[IMG]http://homepage.ntlworld.com/duncan.hill2/Temp%20Photos/RIAT%2009%20arrows.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://homepage.ntlworld.com/duncan.hill2/Temp%20Photos/RIAT%2009%20arrows2.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.aviation-photography.co.uk/
His advice to me was to use spot metering, apply +1 exposure compensation, and try to ensure the plane is in the centre of the frame to get the metering right. Certainly, I'd say apply positive exposure compensation. If you don't, you tend to get black dots against the sky. I'd say a lot of the problems at Fairford this weekend were due to the weather. You can tweak all the camera settings you like, but the flat overcast lighting resulted in grey planes against grey clouds.
Fortunately, there were a few sunny patches, on the Saturday at least.....
[IMG]http://homepage.ntlworld.com/duncan.hill2/Temp%20Photos/RIAT%2009%20arrows.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://homepage.ntlworld.com/duncan.hill2/Temp%20Photos/RIAT%2009%20arrows2.jpg[/IMG]
Posted 20/07/2009 - 18:26
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Pwynnej wrote:
I always worked on the principle of not going below the value of the focal length... ie 300 mm lens, 350th of a second etc etc...
What's not clear to me why you multiply by 1.5, and then multiply again by another 1.5.....can you elaborate?
Thanks
Peter
Yes as the sensor is an aps-c sized sensor there is a crop factor of 1.5Cloudhunter wrote:
Hi,
Use the following formula to get sharp shots...
Focal length x 1.5 and then multiply by 1.5 again.
So for instance 300mm would need a shutter speed of 300x1.5=450 450x1.5=675
So make sure the shutter is above 675. I know you have SR to give you a few stops benefit but it doesnt work very well when you are panning a shot for a moving aircraft.
Also, have it on af-c, either shutter priority or aperture priority depending on what your trying to achieve, and i use the central point autofocus too.
Matt
Matt,Hi,
Use the following formula to get sharp shots...
Focal length x 1.5 and then multiply by 1.5 again.
So for instance 300mm would need a shutter speed of 300x1.5=450 450x1.5=675
So make sure the shutter is above 675. I know you have SR to give you a few stops benefit but it doesnt work very well when you are panning a shot for a moving aircraft.
Also, have it on af-c, either shutter priority or aperture priority depending on what your trying to achieve, and i use the central point autofocus too.
Matt
I always worked on the principle of not going below the value of the focal length... ie 300 mm lens, 350th of a second etc etc...
What's not clear to me why you multiply by 1.5, and then multiply again by another 1.5.....can you elaborate?
Thanks
Peter
So to get the true focal length multiply your focal length as stated on the lens by 1.5.
I was always told to get the true focal length and then multiply it by 1.5 to make sure no blur happens.
If it was full frame then i would just multiply the focal length by 1.5 and have done.
Know what i mean?
Posted 20/07/2009 - 19:07
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But....If you follow your routine and reasoning you are missing something Matt. The true focal length doesn't change.(only the field of view) If you are right in your reasoning, Pentax would also advice to dial in the used focal length times 1.5 for the SR calculation. And we all know you dial in the actual used one.(with non AF ones) And not multiply by 1.5
Martin.
Martin.
Posted 20/07/2009 - 19:08
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true focal length, first time I heard that one.
You mean equivalent focal length, right Matt
You mean equivalent focal length, right Matt
Stefan
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Posted 20/07/2009 - 19:12
Link
Okay okay, the equivalent focal length. The fact is a 100mm lens on a full frame will be the equivalent of 150mm on an aps-c camera with 1.5 crop factor. I use that formula and never get a blurred shot so it works for me
Posted 20/07/2009 - 19:13
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Malo1961 wrote:
But....If you follow your routine and reasoning you are missing something Matt. The true focal length doesn't change.(only the field of view) If you are right in your reasoning, Pentax would also advice to dial in the used focal length times 1.5 for the SR calculation. And we all know you dial in the actual used one.(with non AF ones) And not multiply by 1.5
Martin.
ANd the field of view makes a 100mm lens equivalent to 150mm. Hence why some people dont go full frame as they get more reach with aps-cBut....If you follow your routine and reasoning you are missing something Matt. The true focal length doesn't change.(only the field of view) If you are right in your reasoning, Pentax would also advice to dial in the used focal length times 1.5 for the SR calculation. And we all know you dial in the actual used one.(with non AF ones) And not multiply by 1.5
Martin.
I think the SR will be calibrated to offer you a few stops extra. I dont think it is setup mathematically like that
Posted 20/07/2009 - 19:23
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Cloudhunter wrote:
I use that formula and never get a blurred shot so it works for me
And at the end, that's what counts.I use that formula and never get a blurred shot so it works for me
Martin.
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2227 posts
18 years
I hand hold my Bigma at 500mm with a max speed of 1/500 and as low as 1/125 (for prop blur) with no problem.
Mike-P will loose the steadiness as he get's Older