Advice on Filters for 35mm

Guys

Can someone show me links for filters /grads for my Manual lenses, namely the 28mm 2.8 and 50mm 1.7

I want to do some landscapes for a project and any advice on filters etc much appreciated

Cheers

A

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Learn how to live and you'll know how to die; learn how to die, and you'll know how to live.

Check out ones photographs on Flickr!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/awprentice/

Not saying you need them, but the Lee Filters website may give you some ideas. link

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Barrie
Too Old To Die Young

http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/barrieforbes
https://www.flickr.com/photos/189482630@N03/

I think that a good quality circular polarizer is probably the only 'filter' you might need, and perhaps an ND filter or two, a 10 stopper maybe, most others including grads can be added in post processing software.

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Peter E Smith

My flickr Photostream

thanks guys - going to go for a circular

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Learn how to live and you'll know how to die; learn how to die, and you'll know how to live.

Check out ones photographs on Flickr!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/awprentice/

I bought a few of these from Hoya a while back. Very good. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=hoya+pro+1+Digital+Circular+Polarizing+Filter&ref=n...

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Peter E Smith

My flickr Photostream

Thanks Peter

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Learn how to live and you'll know how to die; learn how to die, and you'll know how to live.

Check out ones photographs on Flickr!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/awprentice/

I have purchased the Kase range of round 82mm Polorizers ans toppers. Not cheap, Quality glass no complants at all


https://kasefilters.com/product/kase-wolverine-magnetic-circular-filters-82mm-4-...

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K-1Gripped K-1 ungripped K-5ii K7 Various lenses

Stuart..

For landscapes a graduated ND filter can be very useful indeed, to avoid blown out skies.

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Pentax hybrid user - Digital K3 & K200D, film 645 and 35mm SLR and Pentax (&other) lenses adapted to Fuji X digital
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses

Is this for film or digital, then for colour or black and white?

For digital on a recent camera, a raw file provides sufficient dynamic range to render ND grads unnecessary (despite what some might say.) That's providing suitable software is available to process the raw files. Taking jpegs is another matter though. A polarizer can't be emulated in processing so worth having one of those.

For mono negative film, if you are in control of the processing, there will be sufficient detail in the negative to recover any blown skies. For mono film a yellow filter (say around 2X) can enhance skies and landscapes details.

For colour negative work though that method can cause unwanted colour shifts so for this those NDs might be handy. I have a set of 49mm Cromo filters which I purchased yonks ago and still find the occasional use for them.

The important thing is not needing to know whether you'll be using manual lenses or not but the medium you'll be using. Hence to be really helpful knowing your intentions would be handy given each medium has its own answer!

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John K

As someone who frequently applies a graduated filter in Lightroom I will say that using a physical one on the lens still has its advantages, namely that without a filter you need to reduce your exposure to avoid blown highlights. This in turn will increase the noise levels in the dark areas; whilst sometimes this can be acceptable and manageable it can be problematic in high contrast images. The only other option is to take three different exposures and blend them in Photoshop which is a bit of a faff and if you are also wanting to do focus stacking then it becomes a whole lot more complicated.

A polarizer is indispensable, especially for color photography.
Use with caution with wide angle lenses as they may produce uneven skies.
Fortunately WYSIWYG, so adjust according to effect as seen in viewfinder.

Chris

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Bring back the latent image!

I've been thinking of buying a ND filter (10 stop) for landscapes & seascapes. There's a lot of choice and great range in price, eg: £10 to over £100. Are the expensive ones really worth the cost?

The cheaper ones from feedback on the www plus photo forums seem to have a colour cast, whilst this can be taken out in post, its preferable imo to have it correct in camera.

My advise would be to pick one mid range and a circular filter as that minimises any stray light, I purchase filters to the largest diameter of my lenses and then use step down rings to fit all the others.

I can recommend SRB from experience.

HTH

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Chris

www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk

" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".

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K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax FA 24 - 70 F2.8

Sigma 100-300 F4, Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax 70-200 F2.8

K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM

Just a point about colour cast and I've never heard it before. I bought a B+W ND 3.0 from a mate who uses Canon and he reported no colour cast. I used it on my Pentax and it produced a cast. Another friend tried it on his Nikon and it produced a cast, but of a different hue. Not conclusive but made me wonder if it was down to how the camera renders colour?

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Barrie
Too Old To Die Young

http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/barrieforbes
https://www.flickr.com/photos/189482630@N03/

I imagine so, or maybe just the particulars of the jpeg engine or white balance. I wonder if white balance can be set using a dense ND filter and long exposure?

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Pentax hybrid user - Digital K3 & K200D, film 645 and 35mm SLR and Pentax (&other) lenses adapted to Fuji X digital
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses