Search results for 'sensor cleaning' - page 613
Issues with DA* 16-50
Must be something on the sensor. I had similar problems a couple of months back and nothing showed up on any of the in-camera tests or by looking at the sensor itself, just on the photos. The cleaning kits aren't cheap, but do a very good job. The only other possibility is oil or something on the...
Posted by milamber on 29/09/2012 - 18:53
Issues with DA* 16-50
A hair on the sensor would be my guess.
Posted by Mike-P on 29/09/2012 - 19:01
Issues with DA* 16-50
Definitely a hair on the sensor, very easy to clean this. I would give it a quick directional blow with the rocket blower or similar, make sure the camera is pointing downwards if you do this. Regards David
Posted by davidstorm on 29/09/2012 - 19:34
Issues with DA* 16-50
Actually the OP said he had tried it with another lens (which I missed when first reading it) and it was o.k. so guess it couldn't be the sensor in that case?
Posted by milamber on 29/09/2012 - 19:52
Issues with DA* 16-50
Actually the OP said he had tried it with another lens (which I missed when first reading it) and it was o.k. so guess it couldn't be the sensor in that case? these things only show up on pictures when using smaller apertures so it depends how it was tested with the other lens
Posted by Mike-P on 29/09/2012 - 20:07
Issues with DA* 16-50
Found it. No idea how it got there, and it was so tiny there is no wonder I missed it on the first inspection of the sensor. My test was also not done with a small enough aperture (thanks for that Mike, I had no idea). It explains why I had not noticed it earlier aswell. I seldom shoot smaller...
Posted by SnoozeMoose on 30/09/2012 - 15:04
Issues with DA* 16-50
I did however also notice 4 small dots on the sensor, dust specs or not, I dunno. They are a bit a part, and 'glued' on, because a little bit of wind wasn't able to get them moving. They are probably pollen grains, which are sticky. An Arctic Butterfly might remove them, but the pollen may also sti...
Posted by Mannesty on 30/09/2012 - 19:20
Pentax DA50mm f1.8 new lens green fringing
Hi there I have just posted in the new member section cos hey, I'm a new member but getting down to the nitty gritty this is the problem I want help with In a nut shell I have been shooting a K-R for like 4 months or so with the Kit Lens 18-55mm f3.5 - 5.6 AL I have had very good results w...
Posted by disco_1111 on 09/10/2012 - 22:05
Pentax DA50mm f1.8 new lens green fringing
Ok... dog shot: purple fringe above its right eye and green fringe over snout. That's axial CA from wide open. Expect this - it's quite normal in very wide aperture lenses (as I said). Correct in LR. Oh, and the dog shot looks soft due to motion blur. 1/50 at 50mm isn't fast enough unless the sub...
Posted by MattMatic on 10/10/2012 - 10:23
K20d Shake reduction problem in live view
The problem is that the sensor is shaking around while the camera is in live view. This only happens with the 16-50mm lens. Before you ask, yes, I have cleaned the contacts on both the lens and the camera. Has anyone else had this problem?
Posted by Spotmetre on 15/10/2012 - 20:06
K20d Shake reduction problem in live view
I never use live view, but now I've tested on my similar combo. I managed to reproduce the issue. After that I tried out the live view with 50-135, the result is the same. At last I tried it with a Tamron AF 70-300m lens. And the sensor was shaking...
Posted by szgabor on 16/10/2012 - 10:50
Shutter release on X-90
I hope this is the right forum and I haven't repeated my question somewhere else on this forum. I don't think I have. I have an Pentax bridge camera X-90 camera. I take landscapes and interior shots but I notice the shutter release is slow. When I went to Salisbury cathedral to take shots, the p...
Posted by AuraTodd on 01/11/2012 - 09:52
Shutter release on X-90
The sensor on the DSLR is much bigger, so noise levels will be less and the smoothness of the image will be improved. It is a very different beast and a higher quality level. Having said that, the X90 is a splendid camera that has a fantastic lens range from macro to super telephoto. There's no c...
Posted by johnriley on 01/11/2012 - 10:10
f2.8 50-135mm
Just a quick question Gary, where is the 3m measured from? Is it the camera sensor, the bayonet mount or the front of the lens? Regards David
Posted by davidstorm on 08/11/2012 - 23:40
f2.8 50-135mm
I used the rear of the camera as a guide figuring the sensor is within a centimetre of the rear of the body.
Posted by cabstar on 08/11/2012 - 23:50
f2.8 50-135mm
I used the rear of the camera as a guide figuring the sensor is within a centimetre of the rear of the body. There's a mark on the K-5 for the sensor position. It's the same as on all film cameras an "O" with a line through it "--" All measurements need to be from there and you need to go to RH ...
Posted by Algernon on 09/11/2012 - 08:19
f2.8 50-135mm
I used the rear of the camera as a guide figuring the sensor is within a centimetre of the rear of the body. There's a mark on the K-5 for the sensor position. It's the same as on all film cameras an "O" with a line through it "--" All measurements need to be from there and you need to go to RH ...
Posted by cabstar on 09/11/2012 - 11:06
f2.8 50-135mm
Do you get Reciprocity failure with digital? I don't think we do - the response is linear. However, if the exposure is very long we may start to get noise as the sensor heats up.
Posted by johnriley on 10/11/2012 - 14:28
K10d af not working
Yesterday, 02:06 PM #2 ismaelg Site Supporter ismaelg's Avatar First step is to make sure the contacts are clean. Carefully clean the contacts in the body mount (and in the lens as well to make sure). You can use an eraser or a very fine grit sandpaper GENTLY. Check to see if any of the c...
Posted by webba on 15/11/2012 - 09:12
K10d af not working
I would be cautious of anything coarser than typing/photocopy paper. Any dust, however fine, that you make will make a beeline for the sensor. Then you have a second problem regards Bernard
Posted by Frogherder on 15/11/2012 - 15:12
