Hi Gareth. I have used my K20D thethered on number of occasions but I think I am correct in saying you cannot thether a K-7 or the various K-5 variants which is why I was asking about the K-3.

Cheers Kris.

It has probably stuck to the mirror bumper. Very, very gently see if you can free it with the tip of your finger. Do not touch the surface of the mirror. If that works you need to replace the foam bumper.

K.

If you're looking at ebay ignore the vastly inflated 'buy it now' prices that abound. Completed sales are the better way to go. K.

The main thing is the light seals. Try running your finger around the edge of the open film door. If you get black goo on your finger the seals need replacing. Also check the mirror bumper foam, it should be undamaged and not crumbly or gooey. Try firing the shutter a few times with no lens fitted and make sure the mirror isn't sticking. Lastly, put it on automatic, shut the aperture to about f/11, sit the camera somewhere in low light and fire the shutter. The low light metering of the LX is amazing. The shutter may stay open for several minutes and then close again. In the right circumstances the shutter could stay open for hours...!

K.

Assuming it won't slide off then a little slack is fairly normal. I only have experience of my LX but there is a little movement in the prisms (whichever one is fitted), possibly the result of a little wear in a 30 year old camera. I've had no problems with them though (apart from my FA-1W where the glass came loose and had to be stuck back in place).

Enjoy the LX, it is a lovely camera. K.

Although I have way too many film bodies these days, the LX/MX combination is my go-to pair when I am travelling. They went all the way around the world with me last March/April. Love 'em.

K.

Even though I love using film (just got back from Paris and I didn't even bother taking the K20D, just the LX, the MX and a selection of films), I agree with Peter. Teaching, for example, depth of field is pretty easy when you can tether the camera to a laptop attached to a data projector and show the students in real time what is happening. The trick is to use digital, but stick the camera on manual...!

K.

I'd investigate prices using completed sales on ebay and then offer them here. I'd be interested in the 105 if it is a K series lens, for example.

K.

Nope, but nor could I "develop" digital images without a computer and software...

I know that these two cameras have been the subject of endless, and at times somewhat unnecessarily acrimonious, debate since the K-3 was launched, but I am hoping that users of these two cameras may be able to help answer some questions.

I have long been less-than-happy with my K20D and have been planning to buy a newer dSLR. Some bug in the credit card address system prevented me from buying the K-5mkii in March before my round-the-world trip. Now I have the choice between the K-3 and the K-5mkii.

Although the temptation of the newest, shiniest, toy on the block is great, I am unsure that for my requirements (please note the emphasis) that the K-3 is much of an advantage over the K-5mkii. The sorts of things I have in mind are:

a) I use a great deal of "legacy" glass, i.e., more often that not I am using K or M series glass, occasionally A series, and sometimes M42 Takumars. How do the K3 and K5 compare in accuracy of metering with legacy glass (the K20D sucks) and how easy is manual focus? I know the K-3 has "focus peeking" in live view, but I don't know if the K-5 does. I'm not generally a fan of live view preferring to use the viewfinder on most occasions.

b) What is the IQ like using legacy glass? Are there differences in things like abberations? I'm wondering if the more tightly packed photosites in the K-3 sensor might actually make those sorts of issues worse rather than better.

c) There has been a lot of talk about focusing on moving things, but what, in general terms, are they like to use on more static subjects such as landscapes and architecture. Much of a muchness?

d) Has anyone tried the FLU card? One of the main things that interests me is being able to use that sort of technology. Can the K-5mkii be used tethered? I do a fair amount of technical work on a copystand and being able to check focus, lighting etc. and download images immediately would be very helpful.

Thoughts and advice gratefully accepted. I could get 200 rolls of Kodak Ektar for the cost of a K-3 body so I'm not going to jump too quickly!

Best wishes, Kris.