The current laptop is an i3 2.4ghz dual core, been a while since I took an active interest in computing but IIRC that's 2x 2.4, whereas even a basic new PC would be 4x 2.7 (i.e. over 2x the power?).

More RAM would probably help. But it also overheats, even when on a laptop stand at my desk so it needs new fan too.

And file transfers take ages by USB-2, so USB-3 would be nice to have.

It was as cheap as possible to get a laptop 5 years ago, so it's probably a bit underpowered even though it's faster than it used to be with a clean install of windows 10.

I was looking at uk.pcpartpicker, problem is, with 10-15 parts to pick, even when just trying to match a £400 PC from Curry's it comes out at £700 by the time you've added £20 of RAM, a more efficient PSU, slightly faster HDD, sightly quieter cooler, all those £20's add up!

I suppose the sensible thing to do (and the way they get the prices down on off the shelf builds) would be to just go with the £5 case, PSU, fan etc, and then upgrade to the £40 ones when funds allow.

I bought ACDSee 9 earlier in the summer (should have clicked that it was on offer for a reason and 10 was about to come out).

My laptop meets the minimum specs, but it's not particularly fast or smooth. Googling for answers brings up the usual suspects, but they're all advocating spec's which would cost £800-£1000, which isn't my budget!

Anyone built a PC recently for managing/editing photos for a sensible budget (~£450)?

I wouldn't say 200 (or 300) was too long, but in the compromise between weight, speed, size and focal length, it's the thing I'd not miss. I'd put high speed over everything else, no point having a light compact lens that's easy to carry up hills if it doesn't do the job once up there.

Small's relative too, anything that doesn't come with it's own tripod mount would be compact enough to fit in the bag.

The 18-135's definitely a consideration, it was more expensive than the 18-55 & 50-200, is it enough of an upgrade to be worthwhile?

Oi I've a K-5

I've largely come to the conclusion (after spending a fortune on several hobbies before I got a mortgage) that nothing's perfect and unless it's broken, things don't deteriorate. My k-5 is was good 5 years ago, and will still be just as good even if a K3 is better. It's never going to be the limiting factor compared to the glass in front of it and the squishy bit pressing the shutter.

On a related note, my niece is about to start collage (photography) and doesn't have a DSLR (and unlikely to be able to buy / be bought one) , I was thinking of getting a K20 as a spare body and she could take it on permanent loan in September, and borrow lenses? Or should I just get her an equally cheap Cannon/Nikon which the collage is more likely to have lenses for (no idea whether they do loans or not)? Ebay prices are almost cheap enough that I'd make money back selling the bundled lenses and be in profit if there's a filter!

Very nice, but to stretch to that might need a couple more paydays.

[edit] got confused between the sigma lenses, there's an old and a new 50-150, I was looking at the old one (definitely can't afford the new version!)

Hello again been lurking because 95% of the time I've no idea what I'm doing so let the experts do the talking and just read

I recently bought a Sigma 10-20 f3.5 after noticing it seemed to be the lens of choice for MTB photographers because put simply you don't need a flash or have to run miles off the trail to get the shot composed!

The downside is, now the kit lenses seem a bit, mehhhh, not as sharp, not as bright colours?

I've also got some older Pentax-M lenses (28mm f/2.8 and 50mm f/2.0) which I like so I'm happy around those sorts of focal lengths for now. But was keen on the Sigma 50-150 F2.8 but that's been discontinued. Anything else I should be looking for? I'm not a huge fan of the 200mm end anyway so losing that isn't a worry.

Lenses will be used for everything, but needs to be small enough to fit in a small-ish bag for cycling, and not so expensive that I'd be crying for weeks when I or it endure a high speed gravity induced technical malfunction on the bike! The 10-20 f/3.5 is probably on the limit for all 3 (big, weighty, expensive).

Happy to look 2nd hand, but can't find any of the 50-150 f/2.8 on ebay or by googling.

Garrrrrrr!!!!

Either I'm doing something wrong or they don't play together, the translated Chinese manual isn't helping!

Both transmitter and flash set to Ch1, Gr A.

Flash set to RX.

What am I missing? Other than the creeping feeling that I should have waited a few hours to by until Stub had posted and perhaps they're not compatible.

I think the yn-622n-tx does the same as the yn-560n-tx but with a newer user interface, a criticism i read of the 560 was a difficulty in quickly changing settings. The yn-622n sits inbetween and doesnt have the LCD so could only control the remote flash if you put a flash in its hotshoe to input the settings.

Cheers, ordered the yn-622n-tx and yn-560iv in the hope that its one less thing to have to make work together on a soggy wet hillside! The cactus sounds like it would be good but as I don't have any existing kit it looks like more work than nececary if i can make it work with just a flash and the transmitter.

Hi, I'm new to flashes so bear with me if I get something wrong.

I want to try taking this type of photograph (that's me on the bike), the guy taking it was using Canon kit and couldn't offer much advice on kit. But did explain that I needed the following:

Flash(es)
A trigger and receiver, preferably a set that allowed the flash to be adjusted from the camera.

Then just expose the fore/background as best I can (fastest exposure the Flash will sync with, mid aperture to maintain some depth of field as getting the rider, flash and plane of focus in the same place was difficult), adjust the iso, and adjust the power of the flash to expose the rider and set it to rear curtain sync as the rider's always faster than the flash sync speed will allow the exposure.

Am I right in thinking that:
1) Everything works better in manual so no need to get hung up on P-TTL systems
2) Yongnuo Nikon flashes work on Pentax cameras
3) YN-622n-TX will allow me to remotely adjust an YN-560IV flash (or several)

So my questions are:
a) What are the cables that come with the flashes, and why do I apparently need a Canon cable and a nikon flash? What does the cable do, am I not right in thinking that all the camera has to do is send the fire signal to to the hotshoe?
b) If the pins on the hot shoe (apart from the center trigger and the earth) are for adjusting the flash through the camera, and the flash is manual anyway, what's the difference between a canon flash and a nikon version? I guess the answer to both questions is somewhere in a gap in my knowledge of the different hotshoes and cables.

I think all that boils down to, I want a flash, that can be adjusted manually from a controller attached tot he camera's hot shoe, and fires when the camera tells it to, is this the right shopping list?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yongnuo-YN-622N-TX-Wireless-Flash-Trigger-Controller-f...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YONGNUO-YN-560-IV-Wrieless-Trigger-Speedlite-Flash-RF-...