The Lowepro belt system can take 5-6 lens cases - mine usually has the cases for my DA*16-50, DA*50-135, Sigma EX 70-200, DA12-24 & DA10-17. The shoulder straps are needed with that array - adds up to quite a lot. So, I'd say the belt is a good buy if you have a good collection of lenses and intend to carry a wide range around with you.

HTH


Steve

I suspect that the type of kit that Jessops and others have for on the spot processing and printing is set up to interpolate the image it sees and make the best of it - ie if you put a B & W colour process film through where you have used no filter/yellow/orange/red/green for the same shot, you'd expect a variety of degrees of contrast in the prints.

Well I got back a bland set of very samey prints - so I think that a degree of smoothing/optimisation is normal and if you want a true set of images, don't use a high street processor. Or, pay for develop only and scan the images yourself.

Like Ken, I'm in the Fuji camp. I particularly like the Pro 160s but have had issue with CN400 - as above.


Steve

Can't ignore Westonbirt Arboritum - though best to get there really early to avoid the crowds .

West Woods near Marlborough for Bluebells

The Ridgeway - particularly where it overlooks Vale of Pewsey. Good walking country.


Steve

Got to be my pair of ME Supers - had nothing but these from late 70's until Nov 05 when I bought a Finepix 9500.

I only ever had 6 lens - Pentax M 28mm, 50mm F2 and 135mm F3.5, Tokina 80-200 and 300mm F5.6 (a great disappointment) paid for by being an extra for the BBC in 1983 when I was otherwsie pretty skint and a 28-80 which I acquired sometime before our Aus trip in 2000.

Now have a very big collection of bodies and lens - many of which I've hardly used (but they complete a set).


Steve

Mike - my Coolscan V whirres and clunks just like yours - it's a rythem you'll get used to - when it makes a certain noise, its time to do something - like the check the preview image and adjust the crop or save the image - meantime you can be preping the next slide or strip of film or even savouring the malt you've selected for tonight's exercise...

Only a concern when is doesn't make the expect whir or clunk

Steve

Sadly, no.

Add to your list a task lamp - something like a tungsten halogen angle poise lamp - for checking the neg strips for stray hairs and clag. And seriously, an archival photograhic emulsion cleaner like PEC 12. I was surprised at the number greasy finger prints on my film strips - they aren't as user friendly as slides and despite being held in the original wallet, still found marks. Muck on a section of film strip is a bigger pain than a single slide!

Like the malt suggestion - my collection's a bit depleted at the mo though. Best as a reward at the end though.



Steve

Chris - the trick about getting scanning done is to

a) work out a (durable) file naming regime (ie MES-P0688-105 - tells me shot on an ME Super, processed June 88 and its slide no 5 of roll no 1)

b) pick out boxes of slides alined with a particular event or theme - like a holiday somewhere and stick at it until the batch is done

c) descide if you are going to archive the slides in binders or rebox them after scanning

d) if archiving to binders, whether to print off a contact sheet to go with the slides for quick easy reference and/or a reference page indicating what, where, who etc as best as can be remebered.

I allow about 2-3 mins a slide with my Coolscan V ED. You need to clean the next slide with a rocket blower or brush blower as the previous slide is scanning. A roll a night isn't too bad, especially if they are all related so you have a meaningful box to tick when the batch is completed.

HTH. It's along term project which is best done in moderate hits in my experiance. A tinny helps the job along as well


Steve

If you're minded to move on the 15mm & the 18mm, I'm sure a deal can be done. Postage to the UK would be a bit steep - but may be across town to PP would be an option and I could pick up when I pass through in March.

The 30mm has had a lot of good things said about it IIRC.

I'm still using K & M lens on older film bodies, so no issue about fiddling about to get them to work on digi bodies .


Steve

Clarky - if you ever feel inclined to move on the Pentax K 18mm F3.5 - I'll be passing thru Sidney in March to stay with friends down by Picnic Pt before heading up to Darwin.


Steve

You can use Isopropyl Alcohol on a cotton bud with care. It will shift greasy marks on bodies and it's a trick the second hand sellers use to improve the look of older kit (so I was told). You will have to find a real chemist to get it though as most so called "chemists" are actally pharmasists and don't have the correct license to sell it. The chemist I got mine from apologised for not having a smaller bottle - 600ml cost me a fiver IFRC.


Steve