All Forum Comments
Comment by rparmar posted on fill flash at close distance at 10/05/2011 - 12:14
Considering buying new but can't justify/afford to spend £780 on a prime
Comment by rparmar posted on wtb: pentax 43mm f/1.9 at 10/05/2011 - 12:04
Comment by rparmar posted on wtb: pentax 43mm f/1.9 at 10/05/2011 - 00:33
Comment by rparmar posted on Another 3rd Party K-5 Camera Battery at 09/05/2011 - 17:27
Ohh, is that where it comes from? I keep getting moaned at for not doing it!
My view: If you have to stuff a random object into the foreground to make the photo interesting then the subject is dull. That object is now the subject - it's gone from a landscape to a photo of your feet/friend/whatever with the landscape as a background. That's why if I want a sweeping panorama I use my 35mm lens and stitch images - you don't get as much dead space above or below the subject area that way.
I often like a telephoto for landscapes sometimes to get the squashed up perspective.
All these methods have their uses. For landscapes I generally travel with the DA16-45 so I can go from just wider than normal (e.g. 24mm) to mild telephoto in one lens. It doesn't hurt that this zoom has excellent edge-to-edge sharpness and low distortion.
Comment by rparmar posted on Most used lens for landscapes / architechture at 09/05/2011 - 11:42
Comment by rparmar posted on fill flash at close distance at 09/05/2011 - 01:45
For architectural shots it has to be the 12-24
But wider is not better for landscapes. The geometric distortion makes everything look small and unimpressive. (Unless you play the game, much loved in photo rags, of putting some article in the foreground as foil to the now-distance landscape.)
DA16-45 is good for landscapes. FA31 Limited or FA43 Limited are amazing.
Comment by rparmar posted on Most used lens for landscapes / architechture at 08/05/2011 - 23:17
I respect your wish not to answer
Comment by rparmar posted on 14mm or 15mm at 08/05/2011 - 23:08
Bounce off the ceiling but using a small catch panel attached to the flash head. (ie piece of white card fixed with adhesive tape)
But that's actually quite natural, light almost always come from above so some shadows are to be expected and it will actually give some dimensions to the face.
Comment by rparmar posted on fill flash at close distance at 08/05/2011 - 12:42
So what's your definition of 'travel application' ??
I just may be ready to spend some money on a suitable lens for photos of the Alhambra Palace and other places around Granada.
Otherwise they wouldn't have specified 14 or 15mm, would they?
Comment by rparmar posted on 14mm or 15mm at 08/05/2011 - 03:03


I wonder, though, if you pros always bounce the flash when shooting at a large event like some reception or wedding? Since the distance to the ceiling or wall and their structure varies, wouldn't it be too difficult to predict how much light ends up on the person? Would a direct fill flash be an absolute NO in all situations?
Unless you are in the light and are using the flash for fill. Then you can keep the intensity low enough so it doesn't destroy the face with harsh light.
I heartily recommend David Ziser's book Captured By The Light. It's absolutely amazing.