rparmar

Joined: 23rd February 2008

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rparmar
Oostal wrote:
I wonder, though, if you pros always bounce the flash when shooting at a large event like some reception or wedding? Since the distance to the ceiling or wall and their structure varies, wouldn't it be too difficult to predict how much light ends up on the person? Would a direct fill flash be an absolute NO in all situations?
If you do not have a wall, use an assistant with a reflector. Or conscript someone with a white shirt and bounce off them. Direct flash should be a last resort, since even with an on-flash diffuser the light is quite harsh.

Unless you are in the light and are using the flash for fill. Then you can keep the intensity low enough so it doesn't destroy the face with harsh light.

I heartily recommend David Ziser's book Captured By The Light. It's absolutely amazing.

Comment by rparmar posted on fill flash at close distance at 10/05/2011 - 12:14

rparmar
jeeves wrote:
Considering buying new but can't justify/afford to spend £780 on a prime
Consider a different comparison: The FA Limiteds give you auto-focus and compact size, plus the lovely Pentax colours and coatings, without charging any more than Zeiss.

Comment by rparmar posted on wtb: pentax 43mm f/1.9 at 10/05/2011 - 12:04

rparmar
addictive, aren't they?

Comment by rparmar posted on wtb: pentax 43mm f/1.9 at 10/05/2011 - 00:33

rparmar
Does anyone have a source for the ZEIKOS ZE-LI90 in Europe? This seems to be the best possible choice, rated 2800 mA and working well according to users. Costs $17 from sources in the USA (eg Amazon).

Comment by rparmar posted on Another 3rd Party K-5 Camera Battery at 09/05/2011 - 17:27

rparmar
Dangermouse wrote:
Ohh, is that where it comes from? I keep getting moaned at for not doing it!

My view: If you have to stuff a random object into the foreground to make the photo interesting then the subject is dull. That object is now the subject - it's gone from a landscape to a photo of your feet/friend/whatever with the landscape as a background. That's why if I want a sweeping panorama I use my 35mm lens and stitch images - you don't get as much dead space above or below the subject area that way.
I totally agree. Not to say that the special effect DOF shot can't be interesting... it can. And it has a certain visceral "oomph" that apparently sells magazine covers. But for me it is not as satisfying and, as you say, often takes the emphasis off the landscape and places it onto the gimmick.

Smeggypants wrote:
I often like a telephoto for landscapes sometimes to get the squashed up perspective.
I wish more people thought about it that way. A normal or telephoto often allows you to get more into a landscape shot by limiting the field of view. Of course this might take a more trained photographic eye to achieve. (I haven't worked so much on developing my skills for landscapes so I especially appreciate it when I see an expert shot from someone else.)

All these methods have their uses. For landscapes I generally travel with the DA16-45 so I can go from just wider than normal (e.g. 24mm) to mild telephoto in one lens. It doesn't hurt that this zoom has excellent edge-to-edge sharpness and low distortion.

Comment by rparmar posted on Most used lens for landscapes / architechture at 09/05/2011 - 11:42

rparmar
That technique underexposes the ambient lighting so the flash gives your subject a little 3D "pop" out from the background.

Comment by rparmar posted on fill flash at close distance at 09/05/2011 - 01:45

rparmar
Hyram wrote:
For architectural shots it has to be the 12-24
I agree with this.

But wider is not better for landscapes. The geometric distortion makes everything look small and unimpressive. (Unless you play the game, much loved in photo rags, of putting some article in the foreground as foil to the now-distance landscape.)

DA16-45 is good for landscapes. FA31 Limited or FA43 Limited are amazing.

Comment by rparmar posted on Most used lens for landscapes / architechture at 08/05/2011 - 23:17

rparmar
Smeggypants wrote:
I respect your wish not to answer
But I already did answer.

Comment by rparmar posted on 14mm or 15mm at 08/05/2011 - 23:08

rparmar
digikid-tv wrote:
Bounce off the ceiling but using a small catch panel attached to the flash head. (ie piece of white card fixed with adhesive tape)
That is a good solution for when there is no wall present. With the Metz you can also turn on the secondary bulb, which is a brilliant feature. (Pun intended.)

Anvh wrote:
But that's actually quite natural, light almost always come from above so some shadows are to be expected and it will actually give some dimensions to the face.
What is natural and desirable for portraits are often two different things! The goal of a portrait is to make your subject look good. How far one takes that is the question.

Comment by rparmar posted on fill flash at close distance at 08/05/2011 - 12:42

rparmar
Smeggypants wrote:
So what's your definition of 'travel application' ??
It doesn't matter what my definition is. It only matters what the OP's definition is, and that we can find in the first post.

sophiecentaur wrote:
I just may be ready to spend some money on a suitable lens for photos of the Alhambra Palace and other places around Granada.
Sounds like they want a wide-angle for, you know, shots around Granada. I imagine this would include interiors and exteriors, mostly scenery, sometimes including people but not as the main point of interest. And not many macros.

Otherwise they wouldn't have specified 14 or 15mm, would they?

Comment by rparmar posted on 14mm or 15mm at 08/05/2011 - 03:03

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