Hi all,


I guess this might have been asked before but if so please just point me towards the most relevant thread. I did a quick search but couldn't see any recent posts on the subject...


Anyways, I have managed to finally purchase a Coolscan 9000. My main usage will be to scan 6x7 transparencies (mostly Velvia/Provia) and also some negatives (B&W - Ilford, TriX, Colour - Portra, Ektar). I did have a Coolscan 5000 before and had some kind of workflow but I want to start again from scratch to create a new one. The old workflow was a little hotch potch and didn't always give predictable results. I do have Nikon Scan v4.0.3 and Vuescan already. I have managed to get the CS 9000 recognized and working under Windows Vista 64-bit (thanks to this incredibly useful thread here :


http://photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00Ryck


So, essentially I am looking for a professional workflow to get from the raw neg/slide to a 'Master' and then a 'Working File'. Some initial questions I have:


1. How useful for general scanning are the ICE, DEE, GEM, ROC functions? If not general usage, when would you use them?
2. I believe it is always best to get a Master file at 16-bit, 4000dpi as the first step but these things weigh in at 550MB for a 6x7 slide. I don't mind storing this file in an archive (TeraByte drives are cheap these days) but what steps are involved in going from this to a file I can work with in Photoshop/Lightroom, etc?
3. My initial experience is that Vuescan is a little slower than NikonScan with the CS9000. Is that the general consensus? I do appreciate having the ability to use colour management in VS (I have the Wolf Faust 35mm IT8 targets). Do people generally find using the IT8 targets helps obtain the best 'Original' colour rendition?


Thanks again,

Rick

I believe a lot of folk switched over from Kodachrome to Velvia when Fuji came out with it particularly for landscape... While we are on the subject here's an interesting article on the last roll of Kodachrome that was given to famous NatGeo photographer Steve McCurry (he of the Afghan girl portrait fame):

http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2010/08/02/tech/main6736889.shtml

That's a shame! Crack open a roll or two for old times sake

Hi,


I realise the idea of a perfect film is very subjective but I thought I would see if there was any general consensus on the matter. Up to now for landscape and nature photography on 35mm and 6x7 I have been using a combination of Velvia 50, Velvia 100 and Provia 100F. My main shooting is geared towards the fairly low light levels (magic hour). I haven't really experimented with Kodak film for landscape (although I do use Portra as my main portrait film). I'm pretty happy with Velvia and my main decision between which of the 3 films mentioned I will use in any given situation is usually determined by the amount of light available (if very low then use Velvia 100/Provia 100F, if very bright then use Velvia 50).


My question is what is/are your perfect film(s) for landscape/nature photography? and do you use any combination of pushing/pulling on these films? Is my thinking right in that Velvia 50 doesn't handle too well for longer exposures hence Velvia 100/Provia 100F are better for very low light?


Thanks in advance,

Rick

I've just realised that the B+W comes in a regular and an 'extra-wide' version. On the Robert White website under the page for polarising filters they don't actually list the 'extra wide' version but I can see it for sale on B&H in the USA....

Does anyone know if the 'Regular' version will cause vignetting on the wide angle lenses? (eg, the Pentax 67 45mm/55mm lenses or the Nikon 17-35mm lens).

Thanks, Rick

Hi again,

I've now realised that with the collection of Pentax 67 lenses that I use I have a number of different filter thread sizes to accommodate on a shoot. Up to now I have been using the Lee filter system with ND Grads and Warming filters on the Lee Holder system. I already have the ring adaptors for 67, 77 and 82mm.

This setup is fine but I have a problem when I want to use a Circular Polariser. The only one I currently have is a Nikon 77mm CPL which I have from my 35m equipment. To use this with the Lee filters is a bit tricky as I have to mount the CPL on the lens and then mount the Lee filters on that in front of it. It's tricky because the CPL rotates itself when you try and screw anything to it...

Anyhow I saw that Lee recommend a 105mm B+W Kaesemann CPL to fit to the front of the filter holder kit. I have a couple questions about this:

1) Does it make any difference to put the CPL in front of other filters rather than behind ? (ND Grads, Warming filters)
2) How is the quality of the B+W filter? I have heard they are good (although expensive)

Is anyone using this Lee setup in practice?

Thanks in advance,
Rick

Just a quick update... I was down at the camera store today looking at a few of the bags mentioned. Here's my initial thoughts:

Kata Bumblebee PL220 - Was told this was the new update to the HB207 recommended. Nice bag which seems very light. Nice and bright yellow inside making things easy to find. Rubberized straps for shoulders but not too much in the way of extra external storage

Lowepro Vertex 300 - Nicely constructed and design, looks robust but not really too much in the way of carrying anything aside from your camera gear/laptop (ie would be hard pushed to put any clothing/food/water, etc)

Lowepro Protrekker 300 - Probably the most suitable for what I am planning in that it seems more geared for hiking as pointed out by tuco above. Nice external storage options which all seem removable if you don't need them or want to cut down on weight. Also a side pouch for a water hydration system so you can have a tube coming straight out of that.

I think I'm sold on the Protrekker 300. It's probably big enough for what I want to put into it. Any bigger and I think it would be too heavy...

Rgds
Rick

Thanks for the replies.

From the suggestions so far (on this and other forums I posted the question to) the main choices are:

1. Lowepro (Photo Trekker/Vertex/Computrekker Plus/Pro Trekker)
2. Tenba (Shootout/Rolling)
3. Tamrac (777)
4. Osprey (hiking backpack)

I am expecting to hike on occasions for potentially a few hours/half a day to get to locations, etc before shooting so comfort is probably one of the biggest factors. I'll take a look at the Manufacturers website on each of the above and then see if I can try a few in one of the shops here.

Rgds
Rick

Hi again,
Now that I have the start of a Pentax 67 II kit I'm now realising that my old Lowepro backpack just won't be able to accommodate this equipment. The kit I currently have is:

* P67II Body + AE Prism
* Lenses: 45mm, 55mm, 75mm, 105mm, 165mm and 200mm
* Filters (Lee ND Grads, Warming and Polariser)
* Pentax Digital Spotmeter
* Cable Release, batteries, cleaning accessories
* Tripod + Ballhead

Now I probably will settle on 3 lenses to take out on any one trip due to weight restrictions. I'm thinking 45mm, 105mm and 200mm for most of my landscape/nature photography. If I manage to get hold of a 100mm Macro lens I'll probably subsitute that for the 105mm.
I know there are a million choices are out there but does anyone have any Strong recommendations for a backpack which can accommodate this sort of equipment? Preferably I'm looking for someone who has used a backpack themselves for a reasonable period of time with exactly the type of kit above...
I think my main requirements are:

1. Comfortable on the shoulders/back for long periods of hiking/walking on all types of terrain
2. Able to attach the tripod
3. Possibly attachments for water bottles, etc
4. Lightweight
5. Waterproof
6. Configurable compartments
7. Ease of access to equipment

Any help would be appreciated !
Rgds
Rick

Thanks, will drop Robin an email.

Rick