Dropping into M mode and spot metering while out in the real world for the first time, and actually getting the shot I was aiming for.

I had used M with trial and error under controled conditions before, but now I actually feel confident to use it in difficult light on the hoof. The freedom to choose which bits of the frame to expose for is quite enlightening.

10 years into my photographic journey I'm finally starting to feel in charge of my equipment!

I was there for a short break and saw 2 or 3 other Pentax straps wandering about the Sacre Coer and Arc de Triumphe

you're obviously a reasonably experienced photgrapher already so you don't really need the beginner oriented features on the K-X. You are thinking about taking your photography further into the serious amature or even pro arena so in your shoes I would get the K7 if I could afford it.

I went from a DL2 to a K10D and while the former is a capable camera, I wouldn't willingly go back to an entry level model now. The twin control wheels and extra buttons alone make the higher end models significantly better to use.

The K-X in some ways is actually a step down from the DL. It lacks the top LCD display and wired remote port. You may well miss the latter in a studio

K7 is better in every way compared to the DL, you wont be disapointed.

Alkalines like Duracell are not very good in a DSLR, even at normal room temperature you'll be lucky to get 50 shots out of a set.

The manual may well recommend against rechargable CRV3 batteries (like two AAs stuck together) since those can have odd voltages, but I believe Pentax actively recomend NiMH rechargable AA's

The only batteries I would consider using in an AA powered DSLR are Energiser Lithiums for single use or NiMH (preferably Uniross Hybrio or similar) for re-chargible.

this one
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/meet-the-neighbours--more-astronomical-f2...

remains my best effort to date. I don't get to play very often and the hit rate of images I consider good enough to post here is rather low, but then if it was easy it wouldn't be fun!

My DL2 has been out in light rain and snow with no ill effects, it also fairly routinely gets soaked in dew when I use it for astro. It hasn't complained yet. Still I would advise keeping *ist series, K100s, Kms and Kx's as dry as possible. They are well made, but not invulnrable.

The K10D was the first Pentax DSLR which was specifically sealed. If I recall correctly the sealed models are

K10D
K200D
K20D
K7

note that the K200D is sealed but the K100D isn't.

I read it like that too initially, but I think it's supposed to read

Simplified, weather resistant design

rather than

simplified weather resistant design.

that is, it's the design which has been simplified in order to facilitate weather resistance, rather than the weather resistance itself being simplified.

does that make sense?

it was never my intention to imply that you hadn't, I was agreeing with you!

and if you use their memory selector to pick the right stick it's guaranteed to work and has lifetime warrenty. Crucial RAM is always a good choice.

you may find this website helpful

http://www.tweak3d.net/tweak/xp15minutes/

I have followed their 15 minute tuneup on a number of aging XP based PCs and all of them have benefitted to some extent. Might as well get your machine running as well as it can in it's current configuration before you start spending money on upgrades.

Once you have the machine tuned up and running well, RAM is almost always the best "bang for buck" upgrade in a home PC. 2 or 3GB of RAM will make a noticable improvement in performance, but 4GB is a waste of time unless you have the 64bit version of Windows (if you're not sure, then you don't) as 32bit operating systems can only address approximately 3-3.5GB of main memory. The exact number varies from system to system, but that last GB of RAM wont end up pulling its weight.