looks like fairly normal dark current to me. I get this sort of thing off my scientific grade CCDs if I operate them at room temp so not at all surprised to see it on a normal camera sensor.

of course you may Father

OK,

Same Pug 306 just to show how a great car can also be bad:

The electric sunroof never worked, it would open, but getting it closed again required a trip to the garage. This was apparently due to a small piece of plastic which had broken off, but would cost £200 to repair. I went for the "well I just wont use it then" option.

On one occasion after a particularly heavy rain storm, I went out to my car to find the passenger footwell had 3 inches of water in it. It took 20 minutes of bailing with a small bucket and quite a few odd looks from passers by to get the water out. Turned out the air blower intake was clogged with leaves and had filled up with water in the rain.

My Dad and I did 90% of the maintanance on that car ourselves, servicing was a doddle but for everything else we had a running joke that the first line in the Haynes manual for any task would always be "jack up and remove front passenger side road wheel". This was because Peugeot always seem to hide components underneath or behind something totally unrelated and difficult to remove. When she blew her heater matrix (apparently a common fault on the 306) the first line was "remove stearing wheel". The manual then went on to describe the removal of the entire dashboard, at which point we phoned a garage. We then phoned 3 more garages before we found one who would take the job, and then paid £300 to have the HM changed.


Her gearbox was ideosyncratic at best. From the time I got the car until ~150,000 the gear linkages were shot to hell, causing the gear stick to flop about more when in gear than most cars do in neutral. I used to say that changing gear in my 306 was an act of faith. You had to Believe that pushing the lever forward and to the right would result in 3rd, and if you didn't believe hard enough then God alone knew what gear you'd get. Eventually we had the gear linkages changed, which tightened up the gear change to such an extent that from then until the end of her life she would occasionally jam in 1st, usually on a roundabout when I wanted to be accelerating and 20mph at 4000rpm wasn't really enough.


I had a bit of a love-hate relationship with my 306. She wasn't a lot of fun, nor very comfy, problems when they came were usually a pain to fix or expensive or both. But the way that 1900 Diesel would spring into life on the first turn in any weather was worth a lot!

I had a Peugeot 306 which I drove from 110,000 to 168,000 and in that time it never failed to start first time and get me to my destination.

It was rattly, the diesel engine sounded like that of a canal boat, it accelerated like an asthmatic snail, on one occasion the heater matrix blew and ejected a fine mist of coolant water into the "de-mist" system, thus turning it into a very effective "re-mist" system, but it never actually failed to get where I was going. Also it did a constant 55MPG whether I was poodling around town or hurtling down a motorway at 70. Oh and driving it up and down multi-story carparks was the best upper body workout I've ever had, since it had no PAS.

Sometimes I really miss that car.

trouble with Rovers these days is if they DO break you try getting parts. My little sister had a 214, nice car, generally very little trouble, except that it needed a bottom hose and it was quite impossible to get one.

The only knowledge I have of Yugos is that which was imparted by Detective Strebeck

It's much easier for them to get away with KAF3 on lenses than camera bodies. Pentax have to address the accusation that they have a limited range of lenses compared to other manufacturers, and maintaining backwards compatibility with F and FA lenses helps them to do that.

Pentax will need to release SDM versions of the 18-55, 50-200 and 55-300 before they could get away with an SDM only body. Also they sell heavily on the large number of usable 2nd hand lenses, SDM only AF would make that more difficult to maintain.

I wouldn't worry about it for a while.

it's generally easier to use a standard PK extension tube, as the Adaptall mounts are a faff to get on and off.

I'm not sure exactly what length you would need to get exactly 1:1 macro, but someone will surely know.

AHHH I see, I tend to use snap-in-focus for that situation, ie set camera to desired focus distance and AF, then hold down the shutter button and move closer/further away until the camera goes off.

Of course the AF is also only specified to f/5.6 so it doesn't always work but one more technique to keep in mind.