There's PP and there's PP. There are a limited range of essential photo editing ( I like 'developing') tools and skills that I believe are absolutely indispensable now to us digital photographers. This is not just to produce masterpieces, but simply to bring out and realise the potential of what the camera has recorded for every shot. If we do not take advantage of these essential software tools, then I believe we are not getting the most out of our cameras.

None of this has got anything at all to do with 'photoshopping', compositing, 'manipulations' and all that.

I think its the lack of any selective control over adjustments which is the real limiting factor of 'in-camera' processing. Whatever software we use, I'd have thought you need here at least to be able to select the eyes so that any smoothing is only applied to the skin, and perhaps the hair as well. Then you might want to brighten or sharpen the eyes. In-camera JPEG processing cannot give this sort of essential fine control unfortunately.

Are you saying there above that you could assign 3 parameters to a single adjustment brush for simultaneous application? If so can you control the relative strength ('flow percent') of each if needed?

I love my 14mm 'vast empty spaces' shots , and I would certainly take it (or a 15mm) and work hard at getting shots with it, but at the same time I'd appreciate the detail targeting and perspective compression of a long telephoto for dramatic mountain images.

Yes, its quite popular I hear ... what is it that you like about it, that you think the OP would enjoy? Can it do black & white ?

I suppose it wouldn't recognise the filter settings from the camera that Steve had used, but I guess there are some other controls or buttons for it?

A really varied and interesting set there Ralph, most enjoyable to see, and all showing excellent IQ. Best for me are 2, 7 & 8 (could you brighten up 8 a bit?) I love the angles in 2 the calmness of 7.

If you open the RAW in any other programme other than PDCU, then the camera preset has no effect - that is why your mono RAW conversion just looks like the colour with no colour! There has not been any extra processing in terms of sharpness and contrast.

The camera preset (well, whoever programmed it when it was designed) is assuming you want a more refined, softer 'arty' effect with B & W. Because PDCU reads all the camera metadata and has equivilent control sliders then it will reproduce the camera-created 'look' accurately, but also offer even more fine-tuning control.

All good points from a practical viewpoint, but 55mm is rather short up in the mountains - I think I would be frustrated at the lack of reach in places where you wouldn't be able to just walk further forwards. I have a good copy of the 18-55 WR, but its not a lens that I'd be cropping much with - the IQ difference is very noticable between it and all my other primes (and 2 of those are over 35 years old!).

Personally, if I ever had the chance to travel to someplace like this, I'd be taking everything, and probably investing in a new lens as well! But then photography would be the number one thing. It depends on your other priorites when out walking around.

The B & W camera processing options consist of two sections - the main 'B & W' preset (just like Landscape, Natural etc in colour) and the colour filter choices (like orange, red yellow). The preset options are just as it says on the tin ... preset settings of the custom image parameters, including contrast, sharpness, fine sharpness, high / low tone contrast etc. The mono choice has reduced those parameters affecting the image sharpness and contrast to produce the more smooth-toned look. You can fine tine the individual setting sliders more yourself, or also apply a colour filter ... these are usually used in outdoor shots to increase contrast and emphasise tonal differences (like red to boost sky depth).

I think this is basically 'what is happening'. Its just a preset JPEG processing going on. It seems to me to make sense to take fuller control of the effect yourself to fine tune it as well. If the camera is doing a good job for you of processing the images, thats great. Bear in mind you lose the advantage of 16bit processing immediately, something that you could retain if doing your own RAW conversions on a computer.

If you open your RAW in PDCU it should (in theory) be converted to B&W already, as you had that preset active on the camera - here you can look more easily at all the individual settings on the various panels and learn more about them, as well as experiment more easily with fine tunings. You also win this way by retaining 16bit editing, and can output a 16bit TIFF, retaining far more image data for better further editing if you need to.

Sometimes its not worth it to be so precious with these things! Most dust won't have any effect at all on whats recorded by the sensor. Smudges like greasy fingerprints are a problem though, but I'd rather be careful and be prepared to clean the lens front element if needed rather than stick a filter on permanently. Filters should only be for a specific visual purpose I feel.

Glad you agree with me then As soon as the amended checklist is past the draft approval committee stage I'll send you a copy!