It depends on the terminology... (This may help)

Lateral, or Transverse CA can be corrected in RAW easily.

Longitudinal, or Axial CA is a pain and cannot be easily corrected.
I can do it in Photoshop without too much trouble, but it's a manual process and not automatic

It's a bit like Purple Fringing (which some say is down to the sensor) - there are some actions available that work quite well (and usually reduce the saturation of the fringe to make it more acceptable).

I may try and post an image to show what I really mean...

Re: AF adjust. One service manual uses the D-FA 50 Macro at a distance of 1m to the chart (with a 30 degree angle). But that's just one test

Matt

The MG6150 are still listed by them here

I recently bought a batch of ink from "Color-pro" on ebay. They too have listings for Canon MG6150

HTH,
Matt

It's an excellent match to the DA*50-135
LR3 has the correction parameters for it so it does look great when using raw. It's just the blue/yellow LCA that causes a bit of a problem sometimes, but it is such a lovely piece of glass. Bokeh, colour and contrast are loverly!!

BTW most of my lenses needed a bit of focus adjustment.

Re: 45 degrees - you don't need to be accurate with it! It's just so you get a good spread of focus and a way of comparing when adjusting.
Matt

The website www.ink.co.uk was recommended here...
Do note that they have different quality inks, including Swiss inks.
(Haven't yet tried them personally)

Steve - the forgettory has forgotten

I think I was experimenting with focus adjustment methods. The standard method is to use a focus assist chart at 45 degrees (horizontally preferably as shown by Pentax's service manual, which keeps the camera level).

I was probably making use of the pixels of an iMac LCD display (probably displaying the focus chart on there) and viewing zoomed in on the camera. Someone once said that the moire pattern could be used, but I had limited success with that because of resampling on display of the image on the LCD.

Don't forget that the LiveView focus should be 100% as it's taken off the sensor directly, whilst the phase shift AF is done with the mirror down (and it's this that the micro adjustment works on).

Now you've reminded me, I might revisit the idea...
Matt

Not sure... I seem to remember reading that the camera WB is used as a guide and there is still some measure of 'auto' around that value (unless you use a manual WB).

But I could be wrong

For RAW processing you should be taking a white balance reading from a decent card (e.g. a QPcard) and obtaining a correct value from within the RAW tool.

Matt

Now I have had this lens for some time, I'm just adding some comments...

Further investigation shows that it's actually Longitudinal Chromatic Aberration (LCA or LoCA) when wider than f/4, also known as "Bokeh Fringing". It occurs at points of highlight - for example white whiskers on a black cat (which is what prompted me to investigate further).

I thought I'd try a UV filter to see if it made any difference... nope!

However, what I did notice was that out of focus items in front of the focus point give a blue highlight, while highlights to the rear show yellow fringing. Once you get to f/4 it's not noticeable.

I tested by placing white cord on to a black camera bag in sunlight and checking at 100% view. Taking a shot at 45 degrees will show the blue/yellow split.

HTH!

Loverly!

Lithium Ion battery packs give you more power in a smaller and lighter package compared to NiMH AA technology. Certainly, I find I can run the K-5 for absolutely ages on its batteries!

But, if you want future proofing then the grip for the K-7/K-5 can take 6xAA batteries or lithium ion - so you're covered both ways

Whether dSLRs have a 30 year life span I don't know!

Matt

The Spyder2 will calibrate screens and projectors.
The Huey (AFAIK) will do screens.

Personally, I get by with 95% of my stuff with calibrated screens since I print using a pro lab that doesn't mess with the images! Everything is nicely tied up that way. For the tiny amount I print, I find that the regular Canon profiles for the iP4600 work just fine - sure slight variations, but nothing earth shattering.

The majority of capture/edit/print issues boil down to improper monitor settings & calibration.

Matt