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But you don't need the debug mode for K5 & K7 as it's already available.
For the K-r you'll need the debug mode
It's a bit more complicated - see this thread for tips
Other models will pick up a specially named file off the SD card... there's probably one for the K-r too.
Matt
For the K-r you'll need the debug mode
It's a bit more complicated - see this thread for tips
Other models will pick up a specially named file off the SD card... there's probably one for the K-r too.
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on DA 300mm - back focusing? at 23/10/2012 - 12:10
Thought I'd post this as a separate thread...
I've known about Sugru since it was pre-released, and have fixed a fair few items (the most recent being a milk-frother that broke!).
They've got some nice ideas for photography in their gallery.
Heat proof, freezer proof, dishwasher proof, silicon sticky fun stuff
Matt
I've known about Sugru since it was pre-released, and have fixed a fair few items (the most recent being a milk-frother that broke!).
They've got some nice ideas for photography in their gallery.
Heat proof, freezer proof, dishwasher proof, silicon sticky fun stuff
Matt
Quote:
Why are you expecting difference in image quality.
Huh? Why are you expecting difference in image quality.
The K5IIs has no AA (anti-aliasing) filter. The AA filter softens the image. True, there is no difference between the K5 and K5II, but a definite increase in resolution with the K5IIs.
Less PP, less noise (because no need to sharpen as much) are all good for me
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on K-5ii & K-5iis studio test shots at 23/10/2012 - 11:59
Looks like a tad of back focusing to me.
The last shot - the give away is that the area of tile just to the left of the feet looks sharper than the bird.
Simple adjustment in the K5 and K7 - custom menu, AF adjustment (on the last page).
You have a choice of "Apply All" (leave that as it is) and "Apply One". Set the "Apply One" to around +5 to start with and try again. If it front focuses, then lower the value. If still not correct then slightly increase the value.
If you want to start over again, just reset the value to zero and try again. The "Apply One" values are individual to each lens and are added to the "Apply All" (so if all lenses back focus you can adjust a global value and then tweak individually).
Essentially you just iterate until you get consistently good focus
Personally, I find real-world examples (like the last shot) the best for getting a decent focus adjustment.
Matt
The last shot - the give away is that the area of tile just to the left of the feet looks sharper than the bird.
Simple adjustment in the K5 and K7 - custom menu, AF adjustment (on the last page).
You have a choice of "Apply All" (leave that as it is) and "Apply One". Set the "Apply One" to around +5 to start with and try again. If it front focuses, then lower the value. If still not correct then slightly increase the value.
If you want to start over again, just reset the value to zero and try again. The "Apply One" values are individual to each lens and are added to the "Apply All" (so if all lenses back focus you can adjust a global value and then tweak individually).
Essentially you just iterate until you get consistently good focus
Personally, I find real-world examples (like the last shot) the best for getting a decent focus adjustment.
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on DA 300mm - back focusing? at 23/10/2012 - 11:55
Algi,
Yes, the bokeh and general rendering with the 8 aperture blades is so much nicer than the DA55-300.
Think it's going to be superglue and Araldite later...
Matt
BTW, Sugru is rather astonishing stuff. Worth watching this video Right up Don's street for mashing things together
EDIT: Some Sugru photography ideas
Yes, the bokeh and general rendering with the 8 aperture blades is so much nicer than the DA55-300.
Think it's going to be superglue and Araldite later...
Matt
BTW, Sugru is rather astonishing stuff. Worth watching this video Right up Don's street for mashing things together
EDIT: Some Sugru photography ideas
Comment by MattMatic posted on FA80-320 at 23/10/2012 - 11:42
This is a very long shot...
I have an optically great FA80-320 that appears to have had some impact damage. There are three of the mount screws that are almost stripped in the plastic, and the electronic contacts 'fall' into the lens when mounted so that the body can't see the lens properly.
I've had it lying around, feeling that it's not worth coughing up the cash to get repaired.
Yesterday I had a Google for dismantling guides and found a few on RiceHigh's site. That helped a lot to give some confidence So early this morning I took the plunge and dismantled the lens...
Actually not half as complicated as I'd feared.
Turns out the plastic mounts have cracked, and the flexible PCB for the electronic pins has had its mounts broken too. I'm considering gluing it back to a serviceable state... thinking of Sugru or Araldite for the PCB, and controlled heat / superglue / Araldite for the plastic lens mount posts.
Don't suppose anyone has a dead black FA80-320 lying around that I could butcher? (Or any other suggestions for fixing)
BTW, have taken a load of images with the Q so you can all see what fun I've been having
Thanks
Matt
I have an optically great FA80-320 that appears to have had some impact damage. There are three of the mount screws that are almost stripped in the plastic, and the electronic contacts 'fall' into the lens when mounted so that the body can't see the lens properly.
I've had it lying around, feeling that it's not worth coughing up the cash to get repaired.
Yesterday I had a Google for dismantling guides and found a few on RiceHigh's site. That helped a lot to give some confidence So early this morning I took the plunge and dismantled the lens...
Actually not half as complicated as I'd feared.
Turns out the plastic mounts have cracked, and the flexible PCB for the electronic pins has had its mounts broken too. I'm considering gluing it back to a serviceable state... thinking of Sugru or Araldite for the PCB, and controlled heat / superglue / Araldite for the plastic lens mount posts.
Don't suppose anyone has a dead black FA80-320 lying around that I could butcher? (Or any other suggestions for fixing)
BTW, have taken a load of images with the Q so you can all see what fun I've been having
Thanks
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on FA80-320 at 23/10/2012 - 11:08
Quote:
Thanks Matt, did you vote in the poll?
Doh! Not enough sleep... Thanks Matt, did you vote in the poll?
Comment by MattMatic posted on Poll: AF Accuracy Adjustments at 23/10/2012 - 10:10
All of my lenses, but only really noticeable because I regularly shoot f/2.8 and brighter where DoF and focussing is critical.
FWIW, I've found the chart approach only gets you so far - I still have to fine tune a couple of steps for portraiture.
Matt
FWIW, I've found the chart approach only gets you so far - I still have to fine tune a couple of steps for portraiture.
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Poll: AF Accuracy Adjustments at 23/10/2012 - 07:38
Well... The 645D and Q already have no AA filter
Moire occurs when the frequency of the image approaches the resolution of the sensor. My understanding is that it was more of a problem at lower sensor resolutions. It's not impossible to get moire but seems pretty tricky, and when it does LR will at least remove colour moire easily.
Matt
Moire occurs when the frequency of the image approaches the resolution of the sensor. My understanding is that it was more of a problem at lower sensor resolutions. It's not impossible to get moire but seems pretty tricky, and when it does LR will at least remove colour moire easily.
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on In real life. Will 'moire' really be a problem? at 23/10/2012 - 06:55
The PCB is fine, it's just how it's held in place. Stupid design really! Think Sugru may be the stuff as it has some 'give' and can be removed if really needed. The only way into the PCB is down the barrel of the lens - yuck!
Matt