Rick,

First of all, you definitely need version 1.12 of the firmware for the *ist-D - made a huge difference to the reliability of the flash. If you haven't got 1.12, you must do that first.

You didn't mention in your post what mode the flash was set to

You should be able to use P-TTL mode. Set the flash to High Speed Sync if you are outside (it will revert to normal if high speed isn't needed, but don't forget the guide number will be lower). Use the exposure compensation on the flash, and set it to -0.5 or -1.0eV so the flash isn't so obvious.

Additionally, put the flash to 45 degrees, and flip out the bounce card. That further softens the flash and provides a nice catch light in the eyes. (I also use an Omnibounce for the AF360 which softens even further.)

Then just use "P" mode on the camera. Use the thumb and finger wheels to adjust Av and Tv as needed, and the two will take care of the exposure. If you're just doing portraits you can't go far wrong with that.

In fact, even if you used fully manual on the camera, the flash can still function in P-TTL mode (amazing but true!). I have used this as an experiment in a difficult lighting situation where I used spot metering and set an exposure for a very dark room which had sunlight streaming in. The AF360 did an admirable job!

Best thing is to experiment with the auto modes, then drop down to fully manual if you absolutely have to (or you want a nostalgia trip )

Hope that helps,
Matt

The other thing to try is this:
Increase the ISO setting (say up to 800). This will mean that the AF360 doesn't have to "try" as hard to light the scene.

I have both the AF360 and a Metz 50MZ5. The latter charges only slightly quicker - I'd need a Quantum battery pack (or similar) for super fast recharge, and the expense is something else!!

If you try to light a large area, or shoot from a very large distance, then the flash has to work very hard. Increasing the sensitivity of the camera (using higher ISO) is one way to help the flash out. Additionally, switching to manual flash or A mode (rather than P-TTL) helps because for P-TTL it has to fire twice and thus expends itself twice as quickly! The other modes are available when you switch the camera to fully manual

Matt

Sounds like it may have been sitting around too long:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00CZVn
(Mentions that oil gets on the magnets and needs cleaning off)

I just did a Google on "OM10 rewind stuck". You might try the Google Groups too... sure there must be something on the 'net.

Matt

Have you checked the film rewind button/mechanism?
I seem to remember that some mechanical cameras give confusing results with the winder etc when it thinks it's still in the "rewind film" mode.
(Maybe that would explain why the sprockets move freely, which should normally move only in one direction )
Matt

Check out the seller's "Completed Items". You'll see they've been up for auction before and the 85mm and 43mm didn't even get one bid!! Aaargh! Could've got them for 99pence!
Matt

Jimmy,

You cannot increase the shutter speed, unless you have an AF360FGZ which supports High Speed Sync. (There is one Sigma flash that support high speed sync, but it's more expensive than the AF360.)

External slaves, popup flash - all are restricted because the circuit design for high speed sync is different, and you need oodles of power.

Hope that clarifies the matter
Matt

For what it's worth, I found that the Sigma 550 Super (not the ST) offers hi speed sync, wireless etc. It's more expensive than the AF360, but has a higher guide number.

Matt

Jimmy,
You can't increase the shutter speed, only slow it down.
The limitation is called the "sync" speed..

With the *ist-D you can use the AF360FGZ external flash to do high speed sync, above 1/150s. Not quite sure how high you can go, but the power of the flash is greatly reduced in this mode - hence it's available as a separate option on the slide switch of the AF360FGZ. You also have various other useful flash modes that are not available on the pop-up.

As far as I am aware, the AF360 is the only flash that supports high speed sync.

What is even more interesting is the AF360 does wireless flash. I took some macro shots of a moth using extension tubes and the SMC-F 100mm/f2.8 macro, and lit it with the AF360 on wireless mode (so I could hold the flash in the right position). Got some great results!

So, unfortunately you can't do it with the pop-up flash, because it doesn't have enough power to run in high speed sync mode.

Matt

Pure Black and White workflow with Capture One:
http://www.outbackphoto.com/artofraw/raw_08/essay.html

Definitely worth trying out

And another from Phase One:
http://www.phaseone.com/upload/captureone_creativeprofiles_002.pdf

Have fun!
Matt

There's another good tutorial here:
http://www.northscape.co.uk/news467.html

Tip: hold the SHIFT key down while adjusting the curves and it will engage a "fine tune" mode.