I can't answer all your questions, but will give you what I know...

As to what the K10D will do, I can't say. The original *ist-D could do wireless P-TTL flash from the pop-up, but all the other DSLRs from Pentax could not - you have to have two flashes. Whether Pentax will take the same view on the K10D... I do hope it will do the same as the *ist-D...

When you use wireless flash: the wireless feature is performed by a preflash (so it's not radio, but optical). There is no ability to adjust settings remotely - it is purely triggering. So, yes, you have to go to the remotes and adjust manually.

It does depend on what you're doing... if you're in a studio environment, then I would suggest using fully manual on both camera and flash. It gives you the best level of control. I've been doing setups using the *ist-D, AF360 and AF540 (plus a brolly) and getting really excellent results in this manner.

When using P-TTL I have had pretty good results. The *ist-D exposure was a bit hit-and-miss to begin with, but they improved it drastically with a firmware upgrade. I suspect the K10D will be better still. The Pentax with High speed sync and P-TTL is really superb for fill-in flash (used in two weddings with excellent results).

So, can't say how it compares again Nikon or Canon. They've probably got a lot more experience than Pentax in this regard... but worse backward compatibility AFAIK. Nikon can use distance information to adjust flash - it's not an easy choice to make, but I can't imagine you'll make the choice just on the flash system

Pentax flash leads are sold in three parts: the part that fits to the camera, the cable, and the part that goes on the flash (two types available). Second hand, each go for around £25 - so, yes, that's still £75 for a flash extension. High price - maybe; useful - definitely.

As soon as the K10D specs are known more fully, no doubt someone here can let you know

Matt

I too can vouch for the 16-45
Very sharp, excellent colour and low distortion.
If you want any corrections, then PTLens has the calibration data for the 16-45, as well as the 12-24 - but generally I don't find it necessary.

Matt

LOL! Thanks for the complements

The RT version seems quite quick and stable, but can't save anything except the full output file.
The more expensive version is misbehaving badly on my mega Dell machine (Precision 690). The results are quite good...

...but I've got better results from using Capture One to process a TIFF/JPG and then Lightzone to process.

Just a shame it's soooo slow, running in Java. An optimised binary version would've been quicker methinks.

If nothing else, it's opened my eyes to some new ways of working within Photoshop

Matt

Hi all,
Thought this may be of great interest to many...
http://www.lightcrafts.com/products/lightzone/

Can't stop playing with it! It's extremely intuitive, a little slow sometimes, but I've got some very quick results out of it. Be sure to check out the tutorials on the site as well

Have fun!
Matt

Thanks Brian! I'll let you all know what the canvas looks like when it arrives

Just posted a waterfall (mostly) processed in LightZone. The RAW file was first converted to JPG in Capture One, but the output was too flat. Lightzone helped greatly in sorting out the exposure - I found it very intuitive and "creative". Just slow in outputting Maybe that'll change with future releases though
Final polish done in Photoshop

Matt

EC = Editor's Choice (on ePhotozine)
The photo is here: http://www.ephotozine.com/gallery/showlargepic.cfm?photoid=723669

Taken with the *ist-D and SMC-F 50mm/f1.4

Matt

Drew - thanks
So you spotted the string Not too hard really...
The black bg is done with a layer and a mask. The main mask was outlined using the pen tool in Photoshop, then softened and tamed into shape. The string was done after - used the pen tool to create a path through the middle of the string and stroked (Edit / Stroke) it on the mask with a soft brush
I did it by putting the layer to 50% opacity so I could see where I was going.

Actually there were a good few layers in this image to bring all the lighting levels into shape and increase the density of colour.

Hope that makes sense!
And if you haven't mastered the pen tool - you must
Matt

Some translated pages regarding Pentax and the K10D and 645D:

http://dc.watch.impress.co.jp - interview with Pentax business department manager

http://dc.watch.impress.co.jp - K10D etc

It's a bit disjointed, but you get the general idea...
Yes, they'll keep expanding K20D, K1D, K30D (whatever), and they're all pretty excited about the products and lenses (as are we all )

Matt

From what I've read on the 'net, Sigma reverse engineer the communication protocols between the body and lens (rather than licensing the protocol from the body manufacturer). Consequently, they sometimes get it working with then-current bodies only to find that they haven't implemented the protocol to the original specs and the lens doesn't work on newer bodies.

Sounds like that's what you've got there...

Except, the film cameras you mention have dual communication with the lenses. The older bodies used the metal finger to sense where the aperture ring was set to - you'll see the finger moving if you take the lens off the body and rotate the aperture dial.

However, the Pentax DSLRs dispensed with that approach and rely solely on the electronic contacts.

You may find that the electronics inside the Sigma are defective and so cannot communicate with the body, but the lens appears to work when used on an older film body (because it's using the mechanical coupling instead).

Hope that may shed some light on the problem...

Matt

The "N/F" on the mounting flange does somewhat give the game away as a Nikon mount too