I don't use film any more so have no interest in the ME Super, but I'm curious, what's a "NOS body" when it's at home?

(S)ome (R)eal (S)uppliers are loyal to their customers, irrespective of warranty.

Bottom line is, when you are guaranteed service above and beyond what would be considered reasonable, go for it.

If you are not trying to create the effect/illusion of speed by using second/trailing curtain synch., you might as well leave your flash set to HSS. When your shutter speed becomes too fast for standard mode, HSS mode kicks in on the flash, indicated by an H symbol in the display. Below the cameras maximum synch speed the flash will revert to standard non-HSS mode.

No, with a Pentax flash you can select any shutter speed that your camera allows. I have no experience of your particular flash though so you'll need to check the instruction manual to see if it has any shutter speed limitations.

If all else fails, just try it. If it doesn't work you'll probably notice some banding where parts of the exposure are illuminated by flash and other parts not.

Wot, no battery grip .

+1 for 64 bit Windows 7, or 8 if you like the interface. I don't, so I've only got Windows 8 on my 32 bit Netbook.

Luminous Landscape has some excellent infotorials, as does ePhotozine.

Then there's the K-mount bible by Bojidar Dimitrov which contains as much technical detail about Pentax's K-mount products as you are ever likely to need.

Louise, please don't go out and waste money buying a lens just because somebody tells you you need it. Decide for yourself whether you do or don't need a lens by understanding what it is about any particular lens that you want to take advantage of.

In this case, you need to know and understand depth of field (DOF), how it affects your images, and how to get as much DOF as you can from any given lens by using its hyperfocal distance.

Once you've read and understood the information in the links above, you might decide that you don't actually need a wider lens.

If you do decide you need a wider lens, consider a zoom lens, prime lenses are usually much more expensive but if you need a prime, choose wisely. I can recommend both the Pentax DA12-24mm 1:4 lens (from personal experience), and the Sigma 10-20mm (from seeing images produced by it)- there are 2 versions of the Sigma 10-20mm available, one has a constant aperture 1:3.5.

If you buy Lightroom (as per other topic) you'll be able to check which is your most used focal length for any given lens which should help in your decision making.

The DA16-45mm 1:4 is optically superior to any of the available 'kit' zooms having a similar range, and it maintains a constant aperture throughout the zoom range. The kit lenses don't.

If you buy, you will notice a difference . . . eventually .

RE. Layers, first you need to understand why you might need to use them, then you need to decide if you need them, and it'll depend a lot on what you take photos of.

Lightroom 4.3 is the latest version and there is a free 30 day trial from the Adobe web site. Amazon has Lightroom in stock at £67.99 and PSE11 at £54.00 incl. free delivery.

Don't forget though, if you are a full time student you are eligible to purchase the 'Student & Teacher, AKA academic' licences and make some substantial savings. If that's the case, why not buy both, problem solved .

Whichever you choose, Lightroom or Photoshop Elements, be prepared to spend some time getting to know its strengths and weaknesses.

Re. PSE 7 or 11, always go for the latest version. Older versions will not support the raw .PEF files from newer Pentax DSLR's, you'll need to use Adobe's .DNG format.