All Forum Comments
Comment by Mannesty posted on Getting stacked. at 06/11/2010 - 13:08
I'm not too sure that I am 100% comfortable with electronic items that have no on/off switch though.
The mounting issues noted by dougf8 are easily overcome with these. The seller has other variations as well.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Wireless flash triggering at 05/11/2010 - 09:36
Pocket Wizards?
Comment by Mannesty posted on Wireless flash triggering at 05/11/2010 - 07:20
I've been looking at aquiring a set of Seculine triggers ...
I like the belt 'n braces idea of them using both IR and radio.
Rcvr only is £75.00 at Bristol Cameras.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Wireless flash triggering at 04/11/2010 - 13:41
So in my quest for replacements, I came across this which I thought others might find useful. I found the tables at the end very useful.
I'm almost decided on finding a reasonably priced set working in the 2.4GHz band as the range is superior and triggering seems to be more reliable.
Has any member used the Yongnuo RF-602 with Pentax kit? The yseem to be only dedicated to Canon and Nikon kit.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Wireless flash triggering at 04/11/2010 - 12:12
1: Have you changed the mode to something other than P-TTL? If so, change it back. It should default to P-TTL on power up.
2: For this initial troubleshooting test make sure the Synch. switch is set to the extreme left, the 'green' position.
If you can make a properly exposed image with the camera set to Controller, you should not need to change anything on the flash. All that is required is to change the setting in the custom menu from controller to master.
If, when the onboard flash is set as a controller, the image is not properly exposed there is something wrong.
If the flash does not fire with the onboard flash set to master, there is something wrong.
As a final test, try setting the flash to each of the four wireless channels. It's possible one or more of them might work. Don't forget to synch camera and flash channels each time by mounting the flash on the camera as preiously described.
If it still doesn't work, my advice is to take the camera and flash to a Pentax Pro dealer (not Jessops, Curry's, Dixons, et al) and have them check it for you, then take any appropriate action to have it fixed.
Alternatively there might be other members in your area willing to help by trying another flash on your camera or your camera with another flash. One or the other should isolate the faulty item.
I don't think I can help much more.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Pentax AF360FGZ Auto-Flash: shedding light on wireless flash (and other dark corners of the manual) at 01/11/2010 - 17:33
With regard to wireless channel selection, once set, they should not normally need changing. The reason there are 4 channels is to facilitate up to 4 Pentax camera/flash combinations being used at the same time in the same environment. If any two are set to the same wireless channel, they will interfere with each other rather like the problem with radio controlled models. If two rc models are being controlled on the same frequency, havoc generally ensues.
Again, Pentax flashes don't use radio to communicate with the camera, it's done with pulses of light. It's still technically wireless but often leads to confusion.
Your K-x, even though new, will probably have firmware version 1.00 installed. To check it, power off the camera, press and hold the menu button, power on the camera and check the version number on the rear screen.
The latest version 1.01 can be downloaded from here.
Whilst the improvements listed for this version do not specifically mention any changes to wireless flash operation, it's not unheard of for camera manufacturers, including Pentax, to slip in other modifications and bug fixes without telling us. Follow the instructions included in the download to load it into your camera. Always perform firmware updates with freshly charged batteries in the camera.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Pentax AF360FGZ Auto-Flash: shedding light on wireless flash (and other dark corners of the manual) at 31/10/2010 - 22:58
True prime macro lenses come in varying sizes from approx. 35 - 200 mm. Each will produce macro images at 1:1 magnification, but at varying subject to lens distances. The smaller the focal length the closer you will need to be. Using a 35mm lens for grasshoppers for instance is almost a non-starter. AT the other extreme, a 200mm lens keeps you a useful distance away from wary or dangerous subjects to give you a better chance of snapping them.
Zoom lenses having a macro setting don't give 1:1 magnification and are no where near as versatile as a proper macro setup, either with bellos or extension tubes, or a dedicated macro lens.
You may not be aware that you can reverse mount lenses on your camera if you have a sutable adapter and smaller focal length lenses used in this way give the greatest magnification at the expense of DOF.
You can also stack lenses one in front of the other. EG: A 200mm lens with a 50mm lens reverse mounted to the front of it produces approx. 4:1 magnification.
Chances are you will probably have to use flash to get reasonably fast shutter speeds for fast moving subjects too.
Above all else, beware. Macro-photography is incurably addictive.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Questions about Macro Photography with Macro Fold Bellows at 31/10/2010 - 16:11
Comment by Mannesty posted on Questions about Macro Photography with Macro Fold Bellows at 31/10/2010 - 15:46
It is however, enormous.
This might help.
Comment by Mannesty posted on Maksutov MTO 1000 Tele 1000mm f/10 at 31/10/2010 - 01:17


Which software was it that couldn't handle the stacking? I've used CombineZM (now CombineZP) on the few I've done and it worked well, even with images coming from a network drive which they don't recommend.