Incidentally, I do actually have and occasionally use Faststone Image Viewer. But it's not my go-to editor because I'm not keen on its user interface and it doesn't do some things that I want to do. On the other hand, Faststone Photo Resizer gets fairly regular use for resizing photos (including for this forum) while XnView MP (another free program) is what I use for a quick look through a new batch of photos and trying out quick 'n dirty experimental edits before heading for Affinity Photo for the serious stuff.

Which just goes to confirm what we all really know already - there's no substitute for trying it out and seeing what works for you. So get a few, try a few and see what clicks.

Steve

I use Affinity Photo for editing. It processes PEF and DNG Raw files and just about any other type of image file you throw at it. People say it has the capabilities of Lightroom/Photoshop (never used them myself so can't confirm) except that it doesn't have cataloguing so you've got to organise your photo files yourself. However, unlike Lightroom/Photoshop and some others, it's a one-off payment not a monthly subscription so it's yours forever (which I like!). Current price is £68, but there are frequent special offers at the usual times of the year. I got V1 on offer back in 2018 then last year upgraded to V2 and got a couple of their other programs all on offer. Total cost of everything was about the current full price of just Photo V2 alone. So if you can wait until nearer Christmas... It's capabilities are way beyond what is needed for simple editing, but if you ever find you want go a bit beyond the basics then it's almost certainly there.

Free software is also available. Raw Therapee has been mentioned for editing Raw files. GIMP is an image editor (i.e. edits Tiffs, jpegs etc., it is not a Raw processor). Both have their fans. Both appear to be perfectly OK in what they claim to do. I tried both years ago (well, before deciding to go down the Affinity Photo route) and found that like much free software their user interfaces weren't as slick as commercial software and they weren't as intuitive to use. However, time has moved on, the programs have changed, their user interfaces have probably changed (I haven't looked) and what suits one person doesn't suit another. So worth trying them, it won't cost anything other than time.

Personally, I suggest working with RAW and if you want to save in a non-RAW format at an intermediate stage in an edit then use the editor's native format as it will be tailored to the specifics of the program. The only reason I would use Tiff at an intermediate stage in an edit is if it was necessary to do some of the edit with another program, then Tiff is a suitable lossless format for doing the transfer. If you really want to output the final version of a photo in a lossless format, then Tiff is there. But highest quality Jpeg with current sensor pixel count is so good that it's perfectly good enough for most things.

Steve

Yes, No. 2 does work well in mono. But my favourites are 3 and 4 for one simple reason - there are people using the fairground rides! The horses without any riders and the helter-skelter without anyone sliding down seem quite sad to me, irrespective of the quality of the photography (which I do think is rather good, in case you're wondering :wink.

Steve

Excellent! Delighted to hear it.

And also relieved. There's always a risk when offering advice that the advice is taken and it turns out to be disastrous...

Looking forward to seeing some photos that have been edited on your new toys!

Steve

At least enough for an item on Country File or The One Show?? I'm sure I've seen pretend mermaids on one or the other and yours must be more interesting!

Steve

The nights certainly are drawing in, with days getting noticeably short from start of a week to the end. But as you've shown, it gives the opportunity for literally seeing the same things in a different light. And I do like the lights reflecting in the water - a new compositional element, not just the same different light.

Keep walking, keep snapping!

Steve

As Rick says, stunning photography. The anticipated delivery date is sufficiently close to both my birthday and Christmas that I've dropped a big hint in the right direction...!

Will we be seeing a TV documentary about the making of the book???

Steve

AAAgghh! What a nasty thing to happen, and at a time when you really needed the lens . I'm sure you'll enjoy the 30mm + 1.4TC, though. I've never regretted going down that route rather than the 150-450mm. There's a lot to be said for smaller and lighter (particularly as the years roll by...), and the quality is still there .

The quote for repair is staggering. It sounds like a complete strip down, reassembly and test rather than simply replace the mount and whatever it is (was) attached to. I wouldn't be too harsh on the designers, though. With a lens that big and heavy which is supposed to be supported by hand or via collar, the mount is for carrying the weight of the camera, not the lens. And it's possible that the mount attachment is a deliberate weak point so it breaks under a hard knock to prevent even worse damage to both lens and camera. Perhaps if the mount hadn't broken off you'd be looking at getting a new camera too...

Steve

You've actually managed to make bowls look interesting - well done!! To be serious, though, to me the stars of this set are the people, not the game itself. It's a fine study of intense concentration that just happens to be in the context of a game of bowls. Nice!

Steve

Depth of focus is indeed very slim for a 100mm (or more) lens at f2.8 and is still not exactly huge at f8. But it can be done with practice. Slow and steady, camera and lens held securely and comfortably, breath slowly and hold breath to minimise body movement between focusing and pressing the shutter button (think Olympic target shooters and archers). Use whatever steadying device is at hand (I've even used a family member's shoulder, but only possible once and then they object). A monopod can help (tripod is ideal, of course). And don't forget 'catch-in-focus' - adjust the focus slowly, shutter fires when subject is in focus. And don't expect perfection every time! We each have to find out what works for us. Most macro shooters - including me - use manual focus with an f2.8 lens. I use a weird combination of moving back and forth while moving the focus ring at the same time. It works for me, but I can't explain why and certainly couldn't teach it to anyone!

Keep at it, you'll get the hang of it eventually .

Steve