All Forum Comments
Comment by LiamD posted on Using multiple AF-360FGZ flashguns at 12/03/2007 - 11:14
Quote:
I have a DL and a 360FGZ I tested it yesterday. 360FGZ off camera and pop-up. Works fine. I am comtemplating getting 1 more 360FGZ.
Yep, works fine in auto, you just don't get P-TTL with the DL, which you do with the D and K10D (IIRC).I have a DL and a 360FGZ I tested it yesterday. 360FGZ off camera and pop-up. Works fine. I am comtemplating getting 1 more 360FGZ.
Cheers
Liam
Comment by LiamD posted on Using multiple AF-360FGZ flashguns at 12/03/2007 - 08:26
Hi Niblue,
I don't know if this is useful info for you, but I emailed Link Direct to see, if I bought another kit off them, whether they would work on the same frequency. This is so that I could use more than one receiver with the same transmitter, for multiple flashes. They mailed back, and they sell extra receivers seperately for £9 inc p&p.
Just in case you ever needed to know.
Cheers
Liam
I don't know if this is useful info for you, but I emailed Link Direct to see, if I bought another kit off them, whether they would work on the same frequency. This is so that I could use more than one receiver with the same transmitter, for multiple flashes. They mailed back, and they sell extra receivers seperately for £9 inc p&p.
Just in case you ever needed to know.
Cheers
Liam
Comment by LiamD posted on Synchronisation lead.. err.. synchronisation. at 17/02/2006 - 20:01
Hi,
it must be the flu???? It never crossed my mind to cut them to pieces, and that's what I do with most things.
Matt, it didn't blow up. I think these have become popular since the need to use older flashes on modern cameras, hence there is probably voltage regulation incorporated into the unit. I'm only guessing here, but I think that the problem wasn't so much the voltage itself but where it goes, ie. with 4 and 5 pin flashes routing the voltage to places where it shouldn't go because of the lack of complimentary contacts. This is + and - contacts only.
But.. nobody but nobody follow that train of thought. I am responsible for the risk of blowing up my own equipment only. Admittedly a tenner's worth of Chinese plastic. Check with a grown up first.. ie. Matt, or anyone else here who knows what they're on about.
Anyway, if someone else decides to cut and rejoin them, here's the wiring. I know it's only a few minutes to find out for yourself, but that's about three piccys worth of time.
Of course, I went white to white as a first attempt, but nothing went wrong.
A bit of solder and some heatshrink, which I remembered for the individual wires but not for the outer.. bugger. ..and you're done.
I'ev tried it at full power on both the 3600 and the 3075 and it works brilliantly.
(Apologies for the dodgy wiring diagram.. I couldn't be bothered creating a full blown schematic for this..)
Cheers
Liam
Now, it only remains to be seen if I can walk the 400 yards to the club for a beer. I wasn't joking about the flu.
it must be the flu???? It never crossed my mind to cut them to pieces, and that's what I do with most things.
Matt, it didn't blow up. I think these have become popular since the need to use older flashes on modern cameras, hence there is probably voltage regulation incorporated into the unit. I'm only guessing here, but I think that the problem wasn't so much the voltage itself but where it goes, ie. with 4 and 5 pin flashes routing the voltage to places where it shouldn't go because of the lack of complimentary contacts. This is + and - contacts only.
But.. nobody but nobody follow that train of thought. I am responsible for the risk of blowing up my own equipment only. Admittedly a tenner's worth of Chinese plastic. Check with a grown up first.. ie. Matt, or anyone else here who knows what they're on about.
Anyway, if someone else decides to cut and rejoin them, here's the wiring. I know it's only a few minutes to find out for yourself, but that's about three piccys worth of time.
Of course, I went white to white as a first attempt, but nothing went wrong.
A bit of solder and some heatshrink, which I remembered for the individual wires but not for the outer.. bugger. ..and you're done.
I'ev tried it at full power on both the 3600 and the 3075 and it works brilliantly.
(Apologies for the dodgy wiring diagram.. I couldn't be bothered creating a full blown schematic for this..)
Cheers
Liam
Now, it only remains to be seen if I can walk the 400 yards to the club for a beer. I wasn't joking about the flu.
Comment by LiamD posted on Synchronisation lead.. err.. synchronisation. at 16/02/2006 - 19:37
Hi,
I'm going to have a look through the RS catalogue at some point, but to save time..
I've got one of these..
As you can see from the photo, the lead from the receiver ends in a 6.3 jack. It comes with a 6.3-3.5 converter. My Sunpak flashes have a synch lead socket of 2.5mm (mono). I've bought a 3.5-2.5 converter, but it's not the same length as the synch lead..
(sync lead on left)
I've had a look on both Maplins and Tandy's sites and can't see a (mono) 2.5 connector of that length in any configuration. Ideally a 6.3 (female) to pc socket (female) converter is the way to go. That way, it keeps the wiring as uncluttered as possible, but any way to get the transmitter to connect to the flash is good.. I can make it look pretty if I have to afterwards.
Any ideas? None of my Sunpaks have hotshoe connections, and I thought wireless would be the way to go anyway, especially as the trigger voltage is close to 200V.
Cheers
Liam
I'm going to have a look through the RS catalogue at some point, but to save time..
I've got one of these..
As you can see from the photo, the lead from the receiver ends in a 6.3 jack. It comes with a 6.3-3.5 converter. My Sunpak flashes have a synch lead socket of 2.5mm (mono). I've bought a 3.5-2.5 converter, but it's not the same length as the synch lead..
(sync lead on left)
I've had a look on both Maplins and Tandy's sites and can't see a (mono) 2.5 connector of that length in any configuration. Ideally a 6.3 (female) to pc socket (female) converter is the way to go. That way, it keeps the wiring as uncluttered as possible, but any way to get the transmitter to connect to the flash is good.. I can make it look pretty if I have to afterwards.
Any ideas? None of my Sunpaks have hotshoe connections, and I thought wireless would be the way to go anyway, especially as the trigger voltage is close to 200V.
Cheers
Liam
Comment by LiamD posted on Synchronisation lead.. err.. synchronisation. at 16/02/2006 - 14:43
Hi,
how about using a short extention tube between body and bellows, and compensating for the length with the bellows?
Cheers
Liam
how about using a short extention tube between body and bellows, and compensating for the length with the bellows?
Cheers
Liam
Comment by LiamD posted on Pentax *ist DS and bellows at 16/02/2006 - 23:31
Glad you got it sorted out Pete..
Comment by LiamD posted on ME Winder II problem at 14/02/2006 - 19:38
Hi Pete,
I've got one of those here. Give me a minute to take the covers off and I'll see if I can come up with something.
EDIT: Have you got enough length in the wires to bring them round to the front of the connector plate, and wrap them around the battery connectors. I'm not going to take the motor apart on mine if I don't have to.. but it looks as though the terminals are stainless steel. If they're clean you should be able to solder to them. Have you tried washing the terminals in bicarbonate of soda to get rid of any acid residue? Once done, put a 'key' in them with emery paper so that the solder can get a grip.
Cheers
Liam
I've got one of those here. Give me a minute to take the covers off and I'll see if I can come up with something.
EDIT: Have you got enough length in the wires to bring them round to the front of the connector plate, and wrap them around the battery connectors. I'm not going to take the motor apart on mine if I don't have to.. but it looks as though the terminals are stainless steel. If they're clean you should be able to solder to them. Have you tried washing the terminals in bicarbonate of soda to get rid of any acid residue? Once done, put a 'key' in them with emery paper so that the solder can get a grip.
Cheers
Liam
Comment by LiamD posted on ME Winder II problem at 14/02/2006 - 18:11
Hi Ammonyte,
http://www.cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/
about a 1/4 of the way down you'll find a long list of viewers. What they all do and if they are free or not is another matter.. I've only used Irfan View from the list.
This is just a search at ZDnet..
http://downloads-zdnet.com.com/3120-20-0.html?qt=raw+digital&tg=dl-2001
I use GIMP/UFRaw to work the images.. or at least I'm practicing with these.
Hopefully there's something in that lot that you can use.
Cheers
Liam
http://www.cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/
about a 1/4 of the way down you'll find a long list of viewers. What they all do and if they are free or not is another matter.. I've only used Irfan View from the list.
This is just a search at ZDnet..
http://downloads-zdnet.com.com/3120-20-0.html?qt=raw+digital&tg=dl-2001
I use GIMP/UFRaw to work the images.. or at least I'm practicing with these.
Hopefully there's something in that lot that you can use.
Cheers
Liam
Comment by LiamD posted on RAW thumbnails in Windows (XP) Explorer at 12/02/2006 - 19:35
Hi George,
I wrote 27 first as well, then changed my mind.
Kimbo,
I lost out on a 28-80 on Monday, then I saw that one.
Cheers
Liam
I wrote 27 first as well, then changed my mind.
Kimbo,
I lost out on a 28-80 on Monday, then I saw that one.
Cheers
Liam
Comment by LiamD posted on Ffordes have some good lenses at 15/02/2006 - 07:03
yes, two guns or as many as you want, and they'll all work in auto mode. Stick a 360 on the hotshoe, and you'll get full p-ttl for all other guns as well.
Cheers
Liam