I'm glad you're pleased with it, did you buy an off-camera flash bracket or pro-grip for it?

It may not be possible to use the built-in RTF when the Cobra is mounted on the camera and you'll need a hot-shoe sync lead but it will make the whole system more flexible. It can be very effective to bounce the main flash and use the RTF for fill-in.

An SLR's hot-shoe is normally positioned on the camera's penta-prism but this can lead to harsh / flat lighting and severe red-eye. Moving the flash away from the centre-line of the camera (directly above the lens), helps to reduce these adverse effects and produce more pleasing results.

The SF and Z series 35mm SLR's were designed with the hot-shoe positioned above the hand-grip and I think it's a pity that later models have reverted to the more traditional layout.

My FH80 works perfectly on my SFX and Z1-P, I haven't tried it yet on my *istDL but can't imagine that there'd be any problem.

Good point though and always worth considering

Cobra flashes are a good independant make and will work fine on the DS, although you won't be able to use all of the advanced features found on the FGZ series of Pentax guns - but you get what you pay for!
I once had a Cobra (650CD was the model I think) and was very impressed with it indeed and it came with a pro-grip etc. for around £70.

Another very good budget alternative to Pentax is the Centon range from Jessops. I bought the original FH80 (bounce, zoom, swivel head with aux. fill-in flash and AF illuminator. GN30 @ normal zoom, ISO100), following an excellent review in a photo mag. and have been delighted with it for many years. The only negative point in the review was with regard to the build quality but I must say that I personally can't fault it, esp. at the price.
I believe the top model is now the FH95 but the guns are modular, ie. the main body is standard and you buy the hot-shoe mount applicable to your camera body and this also means that you can fit any of them onto the Centon pro-grip.

Centon lenses are cheap and most are of poor optical quality but the flash guns and other accessories are generally very good and represent excellent value for money.

An even cheaper alternative would be to buy a standard flash bracket and cheap gun, which in conjunction with the DS's RTF, might well provide all the illumination you require.
Do bear in mind that a gun mounted on the camera hot-shoe may preclude the use of the RTF!

The FH95 + pro-grip maybe outside your budget (although you could opt for an FH65) but it would be a serious bit of kit and certainly 'look the part' at a wedding

Modern multi-pattern (matrix etc.) metering systems are incredibly accurate and reliable, Pentax use arguably the best algorithm to analyze the readings and the resulting images are around 98% accurate - give or take the photographer's preference for under/over exposure.
The systems only slip up under very tricky conditions and most, if not all cameras, offer spot-metering as well as the standard compensation controls.
They can deal very effectively with backlit situations and aim to keep bright subjects bright and dark subjects dark.

In my opinion, ever since owning my Z1-P, the Pentax system virtually eliminates the need to bracket or carry around a seperate light-meter - no system can be perfect and foolproof but it's pretty darned close!

Hello JC,

It would seem to be quite normal, judging by the fact that a number of owners have reported this sort of thing recently.
It has always been the case that some lenses (different types and brands) have some degree of 'play'. Individuals of same model built to Pentax's exacting standards should all be identical and only by comparing your's directly with somebody else's will you be able to confirm whether or not your's is excessive.
If it's not affecting the image and you don't feel as though the lens is about to fall apart, I wouldn't worry too much - as a new lens, it's unlikely to be faulty!

Yes, I had to read through that section of the manual a couple of times before I figured it out and then confirmed it by referring to the *ist / *istD manuals.

A useful feature it may be, to those with deep pockets but rather than fork out for two AF360s, I'll settle for reflectors and cheap auxillary guns and slave units

Anyhow, my DL's got a much better screen than the one on the D, so there ner!

That's a good question, I'm baffled too - I have the exact same instructions for my *istDL.
I don't have an AF360 anyway but I wonder if the manual for your gun gives you a clue?

Actually, I think the instructions above are for when you want to use two AF360s - one remotely and the other mounted on the camera.
The manual states that wireless operation is not available for the built-in flash but the AF360 can be fired remotely by the RTF when using the 35mm *ist,
see here (pages 120/121):
http://www.pentaximaging.com/files/manual/ist.pdf

Would that be the one that sold for £125 inc. p+p?
1.7s can fetch around £100, so I suppose that's not too bad but what about this A series for a bargain end-price:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7543379615&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

Actually, looking at it again, I think it's an M series - still a good price though!

I don't know about the construction of these recent lenses but my F35-135 also has a degree of wobble.
Some years ago, I accidently gave the lens a knock and it became possible to unscrew the inner lens barrel and remove it (complete with front element) from the outer casing - requiring a Pentax repair job.
Obviously, it is normal for some lenses to have a certain looseness when extended but if you're really concerned, you might try turning the barrel beyond it's maximum setting - a little, gentle twisting action should confirm whether or not the lens has a fault and if it has, get it fixed or replaced under warranty

The 80-320 is certainly a highly regarded lens but I would imagine that the 70-300 FAJ is pretty good too.
Bear in mind that you do need fairly small apertures in order to get a really sharp image from zoom lenses and telephotos also require a fast shutter speed to reduce the effects of camera shake when the camera is hand-held.
Don't forget that the DS sensor is smaller than 35mm and so the effective focal length of a 35mm lens is increased by 1.5x.

Basically, I'm saying that your technique must be spot on in order to achieve sharp results and it's probably asking quite a lot to expect really good results from either lens, when hand-held.

Have you tried different settings with the camera mounted on a tripod?