Yes, should be plenty on eBay. +1, +2 and +4 is a common set. They can be combined, with the strongest put on first.

Might be better to try some simple close-up lenses first. Cheap and cheerful but stopped down quite a decent performance.

By using the green hexagon in the viewfinder. When it's steady, the camera is telling you things are in focus.

If you have the camera set to MF that's it, job done. If you have the camera set to AF with a manual lens then the shutter will not release until focus confirmation is achieved. This means you can prefocus on an area, depress the shutter and the shutter will not release until something moves into that area and causes the system to register focus. This is "trap focus" and can be useful sometimes.

Of course Pentax DSLRs are also easy to focus by just looking and judging when the screen image is sharpest. Easy for me, but I've always used the plain screen to focus cameras. It's becoming a lost technique to some extent.

Whatever you do, make sure the dioptre correction is properly set. Point the camera at a blank wall or sky and adjust until the etched lines in the viewfinder are sharpest. Never try to adjust it whilst focusing on a subject with dsetail as the eye compensates. The point is to find the point where your eye is relaxed when looking at the screen.

New thread started so I'll close this one.

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No problem, glad to help.

Just to explain if anyone wondered: The reason I store the camera lens down is partly to let any dust fall out of rather than into the shutter/sensor area. Also it makes access faster. The superflex insert is necessary as it stops the weight of the camera plus lens resting on the lens, potentially causing pressure on the lens barrel. The end of the lens is in free space.

Yes, there are two vertical full height dividers plus two horizontal flaps. It works very well.

I like this design because the bag is quite narrow and compact to the body, so it's not too obtrusive, and access is secure but also brilliantly fast.

In the bag you see there is camera body, I think with 16-45mm on it, plus lenshood for same. There is probably some accessory under the lenshood. The sides have small hinged flaps that are part of the kit, so two lenses can be stored each side, providing they are not too long. So a 12-24mm could be on top of a 50mm, for example. A 60-250mm or 300mm would fill theside space on its own.

I use the areas between the green insert and the bag itself to hold docements, notebooks, maps, etc.

The front pockets are used for batteries, cards, paracetamol, torch, compass, sometimes a spare compact camera, and still there is space. Sue's Kindle also finds a place when needed!

There is a padded flap that goes over the top of the insert, but I use it folded back to give me faster access.

Why not give Billingham a ring ansd they'll help you more specifically. They are usually at the NEC as well, so come March you could have a look at all the appropriate bits.

[IMG]http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/johnriley1uk/036-Hadley-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/johnriley1uk/037-Hadley-2.jpg[/IMG]
That's the Hadley Pro, but the priciple will be the same. The added insert means a camera/lens can be stored lens down and it's instantly accessible. The second extra compartment holds a lens hood.

These bags are not cheap, but they will last, so I'd bite the bullet and buy the proper insert, plus an extra as shown.

Fran is now back and she has posted her critique.