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johnriley

Joined: 19th March 2002

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johnriley
Fair enough, although I presume you were using film originally? If that's the case, you actually need a 135mm macro lens now to give the same field of view that you used to have. The 100mm macro comes close, giving an equivalent to 150mm on film.

However, I find that the 55-300mm lens actually covers flower portraits very well. Stopped down to f/11 or f/16 it's ideal and I've never felt the need for it to be a macro lens. If it were, going closer would only mean parts of a flower were shot, whereas for a portrait the minimum focus of the 55-300mm is more than close enough.

I'm not sure that a 200mm macro is a very likely thing in the foreseeable future and it would indeed be very expensive if it did arrive. Perhaps a second hand 200mm macro or a 180mm from some other maker might be close enough?

Comment by johnriley posted on 180 or 200 mm macro lenses at 16/05/2013 - 10:13

johnriley
Printers can to tricky things, but it may just need patience. What I would do is reboot everything from cold and replace the ink you know is empty. If it's still playing up, then reboot again.

After that, we think again, but likely the problem will have been cured.

Comment by johnriley posted on Epson 800 Printer at 16/05/2013 - 10:06

johnriley
You want a shorter flash duration, not a faster shutter speed. The exposure is dependent on the flash output. Studio flash tends to have relatively long bursts of light, maybe 1/1000s, but a small off camera flash might deliver 1/10,000s.

Comment by johnriley posted on Can I increase the flash sync speed? at 15/05/2013 - 23:19

johnriley
It's faster in low light Mike, indeed it will work where the K-5 won't.

Comment by johnriley posted on Lens or Body the cause of good/bad autofucus at 15/05/2013 - 13:43

johnriley
It will depend on the lens itself as well as the body. For example, the 40mm Limited is lightning fast, but it doesn't give the camera body much work to do because the focusing travel is so small.

Comment by johnriley posted on Lens or Body the cause of good/bad autofucus at 15/05/2013 - 12:57

johnriley
I've modified your e-mail address to prevent spamming.

Comment by johnriley posted on Sigma 170-500 at 15/05/2013 - 11:28

johnriley
Please restrict this to the buying/selling process. Were you making an offer Vic?

Comment by johnriley posted on FS: Sigma Ringflash EM-140DG at 15/05/2013 - 11:04

johnriley
Probably a bright overcast day would have been kindest! Even rain would have added something to the shot without compounding the difficulties.

I quite like shooting in the rain.

Comment by johnriley posted on K30 jpg very poor at 15/05/2013 - 10:55

johnriley
A browse on eBay will reveal a mass of choice. You could also consider a screw thread lens with a K adapter. Then the wonderful Super or SMC Takumar 105mm f/2.8 could also be considered.

Personally, I find 135mm too long for portraits. It's starting to stray too far from the classic 85mm effect for me.

It is, however, sometimes fine to use almost any lens for creative portraiture. A 500mm mirror lens can give some interesting results, but not all the time, just to explore new territory.

Comment by johnriley posted on portrait lenses? at 15/05/2013 - 09:38

johnriley
Polarisers don't help with reflections from metal.

Comment by johnriley posted on K30 jpg very poor at 15/05/2013 - 08:50

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