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johnriley

Joined: 19th March 2002

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johnriley
Excellent, hope it works well for you.

Comment by johnriley posted on Advice on Extender at 06/12/2013 - 18:46

johnriley
They do crop up on here and on eBay from time to time. Happy Searching!

Comment by johnriley posted on Advice on Extender at 06/12/2013 - 17:29

johnriley
There are matching Pentax teleconverters from the M series era. The one optimised for your lens is the Rear Converter K T6-2X.

Comment by johnriley posted on Advice on Extender at 06/12/2013 - 16:06

johnriley
Quote:
The ideal lens would be sharp across the frame when stopped down, and provide lovely bokeh when shot wide open (and soft edges would not matter here although not necessarily desirable) but with good central sharpness.
Some 85mm lenses and the Pentax 120mm lenses were made that way, so they could be used as portrait lenses wide open and yet were crisp when stopped down. Then the mood changed and lenses sharp at all apertures were the new paradigm.

Comment by johnriley posted on Review - Pentax HD DA 20-40mm F2.8-4 ED Limited DC WR at 06/12/2013 - 08:30

johnriley
In a way, yes, assuming the subject isn't a flat one. If it's flat, then it's all at the same distance so that would be in focus completely at any aperture. If it has depth (more usual) the as you stop down to smaller apertures more of the subject will be sharp.

Comment by johnriley posted on Distances at 05/12/2013 - 23:16

johnriley
Most lenses have distances marked on them, so focus on something and read off the distance on the lens.

The second part is called depth of field. At a given distance there will be things in focus in front of and behind where you have focused. A large aperture (small f number) will have very shallow DOF, for example throwing a background out of focus to make it less obtrusive. A small aperture (large F number) will have much more in focus as it will show increased DOF.

Hoping the pedantic amongst us don't want to confuse you, telephoto lenses have shallower DOF than wide angle lenses.

There are DOF tables, but the best way to get an idea is to shoot lots of images at different distances and apertures. then see what the effect is.

Hope that helps for starters!

Comment by johnriley posted on Distances at 05/12/2013 - 18:29

johnriley
I menu is a menu, by and large I don't see what difference it makes as long as we're used to it?

Comment by johnriley posted on Practical Photography at 05/12/2013 - 17:34

johnriley
Just leave it on all the time - the setting is in the menus so far too messy switching it on and off. You'd miss too many shots.

Comment by johnriley posted on Advice on SR at 05/12/2013 - 17:31

johnriley
You can add the viewfinder to the GR, it fits into the hotshoe. Crystal clear and one of the best I've seen. Very similar to the Q viewfinder, which makes the Q another candidate, with a choice of lenses.

When these cameras are thus kitted out they end up looking very much like the classic 1940s/1950s Leica rangefinder style of photography. In terms of function that is, but with faster AF knocking spots off traditional rangefinder focusing. You could be a modern version of the classic photojournalist.

Paulyrichard is on here, I'm amazed you haven't seen his pictures. Worth checking out.

Comment by johnriley posted on Street Photography (Discuss) at 05/12/2013 - 17:29

johnriley
The GR is ideal for this sort of thing, fast and sharp.

Getting in close and shooting candids is the forte of paulyrichard, definitely worth looking at what he produces.

Comment by johnriley posted on Street Photography (Discuss) at 05/12/2013 - 16:55

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