I would agree with you - I also use my 20mm (SMC Pentax-M 20mm f4) much more than the 15mm, but there are situations where the 15mm is invaluable. I sometimes need it when taking architectural shots in very confined locations. The 20mm is much more useful in a general sense.

I very nearly bought the 20-35mm lens, but having the 15mm and 20mm lenses already I opted for the SMC Pentax FA 24-90mm, and I have found it to be very useful indeed. The only other lens I use with that kit is the 100mm macro.

The back up kit, based on the MX body, consists of SMC Pentax 24mm f2.8, SMC Pentax-M 50mm f1.7, SMC Pentax-A 35-70mm f4 and SMC Pentax-M 135mm f3.5. This is also a very serviceable set of lenses, but more traditional as you can see.

I don't know about you, but I can't resist lenses!

It depends what you mean by a better lens. As these lenses are almost always used stopped down (as probably also is a macro lens) then I believe that a realistic assessment is the performance at the apertures used. On this basis, there is no problem. I would expect the Pentax lens to score in terms of durability. I have handled Sigma lenses on exhibition stands that have become very loose and it is not encouraging - exhibition handling over a long period equates with a long operational life and the Sigmas do not, in my opinion, have that long term durability.
Of course, we don't know what the Sigma 14mm is like regarding performance, but we do know that the Pentax does the job.
The Pentax 15mm seems to be based on the original Zeiss design, which has also it seems been copied by Leica and Nikon. All these 15mm lenses seem very similar in construction. I don't know about the Sigma...

I have the SMC Pentax version of this lens, which is optically the same as all the other versions. With a bit of lateral thinking, I wonder why you are using a lens of this type wide open? With such a wide angle my thought would be to use small apertures and get the best advantage from the vast depth of field available - if necessary, using a tripod. In this way foreground objects can be given startling prominence with a fantastic sweep into the background. You do need to get very close to ensure that objects are not so small as to be insignificant - a 15mm lens is not an easy one to use well without some serious practice.

As a consequence I can't really help with edge definition at f3.5 but I can vouch for the lens being capable of excellent performance when stopped down to f8 or f11.

I hope these thoughts will be of some help.

When the foam strip inside a camera degrades and can turn powdery, it really does cause a mess. I understand that more modern strips do not degrade in the same way. It is a shock absorber and it needs to be there, so it should be replaced. The use of the K adapter and M42 lenses shouldn't cause any problems - the adapter is designed to be used with these lenses and does seem to work very well.

I think the only pity is that the K adapter effectively turns a bayonet body into a screw body - I would have preferred an adapter that could have been fitted to each lens to convert the lens to a bayonet, then M42 lenses and K fit lenses could have been used side by side more conveniently. I don't suppose it matters much now, though! (So much time has gone by!)

The 50mm f1.2 is a very, very expensive lens and I wish I could get one for £100! According to the 1980s lens test in CREATIVE PHOTOGRAPHY magazine the Pentax lens is a very good performer, with excellent control of bright light sources - points of light remain points of light - and with high resolution when stopped down for normal use. A superb available light lens.

On the other hand, the f1.7 is not much slower (1 stop?) and is also an outstanding performer, probably at its best around f5.6.

I notice you have actually typed F1:2 lens, and if the lens is marked with a colon that would mean an f2 lens - that would not be good value at £100!! The designation for the f1.2 lens would be 1:1.2, but maybe it was just a mis-type?

Try taking the lens off and refitting it to ensure it is fully coupled to the exposure system - a long shot but worth a try. Also, are the batteries fresh? I am assuming you are using a Pentax lens, but if it is another make then there could be a slight mis-match (unlikely but some of the bayonet fittings are not as precise as the Pentax original.)

Hope this helps, do please let us know how you get on!

Hi Annie

On an SLR zoom lens there will be a ring which zooms the lens. There will be an index mark on the barrel that shows the approximate setting of the focal length, but not an electronic indication. The viewfinder will of course show exactly what is being looked at - it would be usual to view the subject whilst zooming until the desired effect is seen, rather than setting a particular length in itself.

I can see the attraction of the longer lens, but you would need a normal one too wouldn't you? Don't forget, the longer the lens the more likelihood of camera shake and you will need bright light to get a fast enough speed at 300mm to avoid it. Or a tripod...(Great theory, but really restricting)

All things being equal, the longer the zoom the bigger and heavier the lens will be. Lens designers reduce this by using smaller maximum apertures, allowing the f stop to change as you zoom and by the extensive use of plastics. The Pentax 75-300 J lens will not be too bad to carry around.

There are some very attractive deals around that include the *ist body plus the J series 28-80 and 75-300 lenses. Prices do vary quite a lot, so shopping around may well save you a lot of money!

Hi Annie

Over the years we have bought so many things that were either too little or too much for our needs! I'm not sure how you can avoid the danger of making a wrong choice, but you can narrow it down by defining what you want to achieve.

The *ist is excellent as a beginners camera (set everything to auto!) but has enough features to be very useable by experienced photographers. You just switch in what you want to use or leave well alone if not sure...

But an SLR is a revelation if you are used to compact cameras - the viewfinders are so much easier to use, defining the picture clearly in a black surround that makes composition so much easier. Then you can use macro lenses, wide angles, telephotos and explore virtually any area of photography. The 35mm SLR is the ideal general photographic tool.

If new to SLRs I would strongly recommend starting with the standard zoom. As part of the package it is very cheap, very good quality and will enable you to explore most general subjects. After a while you will know whether you need a wide angle zoom to go with it, or a telephoto, or, indeed, both.

I know Sue is very pleased with her *ist and has taken some superb shots with it already. Of the current crop of bodies I personally would choose the MZ5n or MZ3, but that is because they have conventional shutter speed dials the same as my older pentax cameras. For a new user this is not necessarily an advantage.

Hope this has helped to clarify rather than confuse!

Hi Jim

Sorry about the delay in responding - we've been on holiday.

The back LCD screen is back lit. The viewfinder shows a mass of information: focus points, spot metering area, program setting symbols, focus indicator, shutter speed, aperture, AE lock, bar graph and exposure compensation.

Best wishes,

The new issue of AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER has a very favourable review of the *ist.

In common with most camera reviews these days it doesn't really go into any great depth. Whatever happened to the shutter speed checks, the lens resolution charts and so on? Older USA magazines actually partially dismantled cameras to see how they were made. Now we only seem to get superficial reviews, hardly tests.

If Pentax want a reviewer for their new *istD I'll be happy to do pretty much the same as AP!