Can't agree with that one. Always used best quality 2300 mAh NiMH batteries and never had any problems. Certainly would not have used any old AA's!

Yes, not the best comparison, but the only one that sprang to mind to make the point why spoil the ship for a halfpence worth of tar?

In context, if the batteries fail to deliver the same performance or do not last as long (in terms of operational life) they may well prove to be more expensive than the proper item.

This of course is a longer term view, and we have found that it generally borne out over a wide variety of situations.

We bought a Pentax spare battery each - the logic is the same as for buying any other Pentax branded accessory. Why spoil things for the sake of a few pounds that will be long forgotten by the time the camera has reached the end of its life?

It's a bit like buying an expensive film camera and then filling it with cheap own-brand film and having it processed and printed at the newsagents.....

Just my opinion of course!

A good decision that fits in with the theme. Very often people just enter colour pictures in a competition of this sort, without thinking that any colour picture just isn't enough. The subject should be colours, and indeed here it is.

However, I think you can make this better by cropping to a more horixzontal fomat, to just below the level of the strong diagonal line. As the picture downloaded from the top downwards i had a point where i thought it was great, but as it went beyond there I thought it got weaker again. Too much at the bottom detracts from the overall picture. Does it add anything having the bottom section that isn't told by the top part?

I could be quite wrong of course, so you are the one who decides, but I hope the thoughts are useful anyway.

A light meter, including the one built into a camera, integrates the reading it makes to make an average overall grey (18% reflectance). In other words, it assumes that the scene will, on average, be overall grey.

Suppose you have a grey wall filling the viewfinder. The picture will indeed be grey and will turn out grey.

If the wall was white the camera would think it was too bright and would reduce the exposure so the wall truned out grey. But you want it white, so you use exposure compensation to increase the exposure given.

If the wall was black the camera would think it was too dark and would increse the exposure to make it grey. You want it black, so you use esposure compensattion to reduce the exposure and render the wall black.

A real world example is snow, and we have seen a few examples of this on this forum recently. If you meter as normal the snow turns out grey for the reason given above. So you need to use exposure compensation to render the snow white by increasing exposure.

You can experiment with different subjects and see the outcome on the histogram. With experience, you will know hoe much to compensate by to obtain perfect exposure.

Whole books have been written about this. The classic way to approach it is via the Zone System, but I will spare you an explanation of that for now.

Hope that helps!

Really excellent, very well done.

If it were not for new manufacturing techniques and co-operation between companies on optical designs the price would probably be more in the £2000 area.

I think the lenses are very fairly priced for such high quality.

I can second that - we have meaured some guns at as much as 270V. Not good for digital cameras.

There are lots of previous threads on this subject already. As for replacing the pads, that's a bit premature, the cameras are only just out of the boxes! I've no doubt that the camps will be split between those who say send it back to a repair house for a proper job to be done and others who will be busy cutting up fly paper and getting out the can of glue....

You even got replies in Stereo!