A screw in filter, 52mm diameter, will fit your lens.

Alternatively, buy a 52mm fit Cokin-type adapter and use square Cokin-type filters. This can be quite useful when using filters that are rarely needed.

Something original will have to come from within yourself. Open your mind and think "movement" and then try to create what you visualise.

Having said that, Graham Williams, a past Producer of "Doctor Who" once said, "We only ever use original ideas - other people's original ideas..."

This is going to be totally unhelpful probably, but I had one of these and found it totally useless.

It may well be that it just depends on your style of photography...

So you have one vote for and one against now. You'll need to try it for yourself I'm afraid.

When I pick up my K10D it doesn't feel much like plastic - under there is a solid metal chassis holding everything in place. Don't judge a book by its cover.

Technology has moved on and we no longer need to make cameras in the same way a Spotmatic was made. Even the MX and ME Super, which you might think of as metal cameras, are full of engineering plastics that you can't see.

No, I like and approve of the current designs. The proof is in the results and the results are excellent. Their function is after all to make images with and this they do perfectly well.

I also approve of the Pentax decision to use a proper pentaprism design. Both my *istDS and now my K10D weere much improved by this simple but very important feature.

Are you sure you like Pentax, viewfinder?

Now we've shot arounf 800 or more images each on our new cameras we're pretty much up to speed with getting the best out of them.

Still quite happy to shoot JPEG, best quality of course, and happy with the exposure system as well. It has worked well in difficult conditions as well as good ones. It coped beautifully with a disco sequence at a recent wedding, getting the exposure right 99% of the time while i concentrated on trying to focus in very challenging light.

The AF-S/AF-C/M switch is placed in a poor position for the way I hold the camera and I have to keep checking it has not been knocked onto a different setting. I would prefer a more recessed slider switch.

Sharpening I keep very simple and either use USM on the RGB file or convert to Lab mode and sharpen the lightness channel only. Unless there is something specific I have in mind that changes things. Values are higher than with the *istDS and I go for 100%, 1.9 radius and a threashold of 3 for most images. Detail and sharpness on A3 prints is outstanding and significantly better that the 6.1MP models.

Latest purchase is the SMC Pentax-FA 50mm f1.4 so we shall be having a play with that on Sunday.

So far the K10D has been a successful upgrade.

The offer of an as-new 18-55mm looks good to me. I sold one for £50 on eBay with no problem, so how can you lose?

The fisheye lens is a creative tool which has immense possibilities. You can also use it to show no curvature say on ladscapes, as long as the horizon goes right through the centre of the frame. As you zoom towards the 17mm end of the lens the curvature diminishes.

Not true to life, but an interesting lens that tempts me constantly.

The MZ3 is perfect for combining modern readout and viewfinder with traditional shutter speed dial and, if desired, manual operation. The slightly older MZ5/MZ5n cameras are also very similar.

The real answer seems to be use A lenses or later, let the camera body select the aperture rather than the aperture ring and all will be well.

The alternative for real purists would be a hand held meter. A Pentax Spotmeter would be rather nice.