Buyers tend to be very wary of new sellers, but we all have to start somewhere. Perhaps trying a few low value items to build up confidence is not a bad idea.

Conversly, some sellers won't entertain buyers with no feedback.

It's a tough eBay world.

Buy it and worry about it later?

Extreme caution would be a good start!

Some older models of flash, whilst appearing to be the same, can have very different trigger voltages. It didn't matter so much with film cameras, but it does with current DSLRs.

My advice would be to buy a new flashgun. But if you must use the Sunpak at least check that trigger voltage first.

That's good...

Very decent optically but a bit rough-and-ready mechanically. I had a Pentax one once, and have had some superb results from it.

If you follow dan's instructions in Announcements, all will be well.

Good idea, but can you start a properly titled thread please and paste your guide into the opening message, after which I'll make it a Sticky and delete this thread.

There is no perfect digital camera. They all construct an image from a limited number of picture elements (pixels) and make lots of assumptions and approximations along the way. This introduces artifacts.

Fortunately our eyes are not perfect either, and viewing our images at the proper distance for the size we cannot see the imperfections.

But the same is true of film just as much as digital, and digital images are actually much cleaner and clearer unless compared to the ultra fine grain films that hardly anybody ever used. I actually prefer the look of images from my K10D to film images on most film stock.

The soft spot that I have for the sharp-grained, contrasty Tri-X look can be emulated when required. Or I could use some Tri-X, there's plenty in the fridge...

Strange concept...

16mm (24mm equivalent) is quite a wide angle, and I would have thought that by and large the lens would be used stopped down to get a reasoable amount of DOF. I'm not sure what sort of subject would be photographed at 16mm, wide open and need critical performance right to the edges.

Now if it were a moderate telephoto lens I could expect that for portraits you might use the lens wide open, but we wouldn't be looking at the edges and we wouldn't necessarily want maximum sharpness. The model certainly wouldn't.

So the answer to your question is that I have no idea, because that is not the way that I use the 16mm. In fact I don't normally use any lens wide open.

Not in normal use. It's not really a problem.