Don't get confused between ppi (pixels per inch) and dpi (dots per inch) - the former refers to the image in Photoshop (or whatever program) and the latter refers to the number of dots of ink the printer lays down.

For printing the image size should be entered, the ppi set to 300. Photoshop has a default resampling set to Bicubic, which is fine. All you have to do is enter the image size as you want it on the paper, say 29.7 x 21cm for A4. That will fit borderless. If you make the image slightly smaller than that it will fit on the paper with a border.

Alternatively, using the Crop tool set the figures you want in the top bar and crop. The proportions will be correct and you can choose which bits of your image to include. Resampling will be Bicubic by default.

Now this applies to Photoshop (all versions) and involves resampling to resize. For normal purposes this will not be detrimental to image quality.

Yes. basically the lens that is supplied with the camera. In Ancient Times this was the 50mm lens, which was excellent quality and useable and abuseable for a large variety of subjects.

Then it became the 35-70mm zoom and later the 28-80mm zoom on film cameras. Now we have the equivalent of that - the 18-55mm.

It's cheap, it's surprisingly good and very versatile. It can be replaced by higher quality alternatives as we find the need.

If you set the aperture on the lens and the body to Auto, then the camera sets the shutter speed accordingly. This is Aperture Priority auto exposure, now known as Av.

If you set the aperture on the lens and the camera to M then you set the shutter speed manually via the up and down buttons. The viewfinder readout will guide you as to correct exposure.

If you set the camera to B the shutter will remain open as long as you depress the shutter release, for long exposures.

X is for use of flash and gixes the synch speed of 1/125 sec (actually more like 1/100 sec)

The exposure compensation dial adjusts the exposure in auto mode to give deliberate under or over exposure.

But you do need a manual to avoid causing damage and to get the best out of the camera.

Yes, the Mk I version did not have sufficent resolution to make the most of the new sensor.

There are still Pentax versions around, and it is a good lens, but it is bulky and doesn't focus that close.

In terms of travelling weight and bulk, the 18-55mm plus 50-200mm is a more compact kit.

How about a Pentax Spot Meter V? If you like nice bits of kit and can find a nice example this could be just the thing. Very, very accurate.

It has the same name, but that's a bit like saying that a Spotmatic is the same as a K20D because it has the same name...Pentax.

A few things have happened along the way.

To be fair, that's all very well but Silkypix is a RAW converter. Although you can make adjustments, it is not a full image editing program.

So I think the question is what does the user require and this can be a different answer for different purposes.

Using an M or even A lens on the K20D will mean you use centre point AF point whatever you set (see the manual).

There will be a few settings that actually make no difference whatever setting you use, simple because the lenses don't support some of the more recent features the body is capable of.

When PayPal test accounts for the purposes of verfying them they actually place a couple of small amounts in the account. You then go to PayPal and enter those amounts in as confirmation. The point I'm making is that companies don't have to take money out!