High ISO settings
Posted 28/02/2009 - 14:48
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If it makes the difference between getting the shot and not, then use as much ISO as you need. Particularly in situations like this, you'll be much happier to have some slightly noisy shots than no shots at all.
I'm not sure which camera you have, but if it's a K10 or a K20 I'd be inclined to go for TAv mode. Set your aperture/shutter combination and let the camera give you the ISO it needs. This lets you take advantage of fleeting changes in the light to drop the ISO whenever you possibly can without risking missing a shot.
I'm not sure which camera you have, but if it's a K10 or a K20 I'd be inclined to go for TAv mode. Set your aperture/shutter combination and let the camera give you the ISO it needs. This lets you take advantage of fleeting changes in the light to drop the ISO whenever you possibly can without risking missing a shot.
you don't have to be mad to post here
but it does help
but it does help
Posted 28/02/2009 - 15:50
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The downside to high ISO is increased noise and loss of some detail.
But of course the downside to not using it, when the light is low, is blurry pictures or the need to use a tripod. Noise may be preferable to that, and it can be made to look more like film grain if the colour or chroma noise is reduced with post processing (this reduces/eliminates the ugly digital speckly multi-colour look). Reducing overall noise too much though will reduce sharpness and detail too much.
But of course the downside to not using it, when the light is low, is blurry pictures or the need to use a tripod. Noise may be preferable to that, and it can be made to look more like film grain if the colour or chroma noise is reduced with post processing (this reduces/eliminates the ugly digital speckly multi-colour look). Reducing overall noise too much though will reduce sharpness and detail too much.
Posted 28/02/2009 - 16:23
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I think Mongoose and iceblinker have said it all. But just as a thought....
If weather conditions turn out bad, and you are forced to go the high ISO route, turn it to your advantage.
Think black and white with grain the size of golf balls. That can turn out in very moody atmospheric pictures,
which on their own should print out very well.
Martin.
If weather conditions turn out bad, and you are forced to go the high ISO route, turn it to your advantage.
Think black and white with grain the size of golf balls. That can turn out in very moody atmospheric pictures,
which on their own should print out very well.
Martin.
Posted 28/02/2009 - 18:53
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This might be grandmother teaching one to suck eggs. If so, ignore me. My students usually do!
One last thing to watch out for. If it is nice and sunny, the dynamic range between sunny and dark will be quite great, and using auto exposure might result in either burnt out highlights or very under-exposed images. I would advise that you shoot in RAW (or RAW+) format and check the histogram as often as you can.
Best wishes and good luck on the happy day, Kris.
One last thing to watch out for. If it is nice and sunny, the dynamic range between sunny and dark will be quite great, and using auto exposure might result in either burnt out highlights or very under-exposed images. I would advise that you shoot in RAW (or RAW+) format and check the histogram as often as you can.
Best wishes and good luck on the happy day, Kris.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
Posted 28/02/2009 - 19:27
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Thanks for the tips guys.
You are right, of course, a noisy shot is better than no shot. I was about to say I might be able to use flash..will I ever learn? I'll be at least 15 to 20 meters from the altar.
I hadn't thought of going mono Martin, that might work. Again Kris, I should be always shooting in RAW, but don't But as you say, it'll give me more options later.
I'm going to write up some notes for myself, as I'm sure I'll forget something on the day.
You are right, of course, a noisy shot is better than no shot. I was about to say I might be able to use flash..will I ever learn? I'll be at least 15 to 20 meters from the altar.
I hadn't thought of going mono Martin, that might work. Again Kris, I should be always shooting in RAW, but don't But as you say, it'll give me more options later.
I'm going to write up some notes for myself, as I'm sure I'll forget something on the day.
Getting there! Thanks to you guys
Pentax K3ii, Pentax K10d, Kit lens ( 18-55mm ), 50mm f1.7 lens, Tamron 70-300mm lens, Prinzflex 70-162 manual lens, Various old flashes.
Pentax K3ii, Pentax K10d, Kit lens ( 18-55mm ), 50mm f1.7 lens, Tamron 70-300mm lens, Prinzflex 70-162 manual lens, Various old flashes.
Posted 28/02/2009 - 19:53
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The best advice I can give with high ISO: DON'T UNDEREXPOSE. You might even want to overexpose a little. It will help a lot with the noise.
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)
Posted 28/02/2009 - 21:46
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At an unrepeatable event like this the HUGE advantage digital has over film is the histogram feature to check exposure. Shoot to the right and you'll get some good shots.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
Posted 28/02/2009 - 23:07
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Just an idea and I've no idea if it work so I ask you wise guys here .
Could you just use an a little bit of flash to get down the iso but without that the photo feels unnatural. The subject would be a bit brighter compared to the background but that would be quite a good thing because you want the focus on that, right.
Any thoughts or experience?
Could you just use an a little bit of flash to get down the iso but without that the photo feels unnatural. The subject would be a bit brighter compared to the background but that would be quite a good thing because you want the focus on that, right.
Any thoughts or experience?
Posted 28/02/2009 - 23:28
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Anvh wrote:
Could you just use an a little bit of flash to get down the iso but without that the photo feels unnatural.
Yes, and Slow Sync mode can help with this.Could you just use an a little bit of flash to get down the iso but without that the photo feels unnatural.
Just a word of warning for Silkypix users about exposing to the right: Don't go too far because the results then can look washed out no matter what you do with the settings, especially with low-contrast high-key subjects, even when no highlights are blown.
~Pete
Posted 02/03/2009 - 08:30
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A strong flash could handle 15 metres. Also you could have a slave flash or 2 closer to the front. Of course flash might annoy the h... out of everyone!
K5, K20D, Bigma, Sigma EX 105, Sigma EX 10-20, Sigma EX 28-70 F2.8, Sigma Ex 1.4TC,
Pentax 135 F3.5, Pentax 30mm F2.8 , Pentax 50mm F1.7, Pentax 55mm F1.8,
Super Taks: 35mm F3.5, 50mm F1.4, 135mm F3.5, 200mm F4
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Tamron SP 35-80,80-210 F3.8, Helios 44M, Mir 1B 37mm F2.8, Jupiter 9 85mm F2, Chinon 28mm F2.8, 3M-5A 500mm F8 etc etc
Posted 02/03/2009 - 08:50
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beachboy2 wrote:
A strong flash could handle 15 metres. Also you could have a slave flash or 2 closer to the front. Of course flash might annoy the h... out of everyone!
Annoy? I'd probably be excommunicated!A strong flash could handle 15 metres. Also you could have a slave flash or 2 closer to the front. Of course flash might annoy the h... out of everyone!
(and thrown out of the church!)
My only flash is an AF160. If I can get a seat close enough to the front and others use their flash, then I'll use mine.
Getting there! Thanks to you guys
Pentax K3ii, Pentax K10d, Kit lens ( 18-55mm ), 50mm f1.7 lens, Tamron 70-300mm lens, Prinzflex 70-162 manual lens, Various old flashes.
Pentax K3ii, Pentax K10d, Kit lens ( 18-55mm ), 50mm f1.7 lens, Tamron 70-300mm lens, Prinzflex 70-162 manual lens, Various old flashes.
Posted 02/03/2009 - 23:38
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Hi
I am looking for some advice for shooting in low light. As mentioned in a posting on another topic I take photos for a local theatre group. I have been using my istD with either a SMC F 100-300 f4.5-5.6 for close up work and for more general shots a SMC 35-70 f3.5-4.5 lens.
I have been saving straight to Jpeg and pushing the ISO up to 1600 on the istD using the spot metering setting. Most of the shots are with the 100-300 lens (with a monopod) with just stage lighting and I think I have got a fair degree of success if a little grainy at times.
I have now up graded to a K20D, not so much for increased pixel count but the CMOS chip giving noise reduction plus the ability to push the ISO much higher and the bonus of image stabilisation and the TAv feature. I expect there is a lot more on the K20D that can help me with so any advice would be gratefully received.
I have been interested in the comments about shooting in RAW or RAW+ in conjunction with checking with the histogram. What sort of pattern should I be looking for on the histogram to maximise the quality of the shots?
I might even give it the monochrome treatment a try as well next time.
Andrzej
I am looking for some advice for shooting in low light. As mentioned in a posting on another topic I take photos for a local theatre group. I have been using my istD with either a SMC F 100-300 f4.5-5.6 for close up work and for more general shots a SMC 35-70 f3.5-4.5 lens.
I have been saving straight to Jpeg and pushing the ISO up to 1600 on the istD using the spot metering setting. Most of the shots are with the 100-300 lens (with a monopod) with just stage lighting and I think I have got a fair degree of success if a little grainy at times.
I have now up graded to a K20D, not so much for increased pixel count but the CMOS chip giving noise reduction plus the ability to push the ISO much higher and the bonus of image stabilisation and the TAv feature. I expect there is a lot more on the K20D that can help me with so any advice would be gratefully received.
I have been interested in the comments about shooting in RAW or RAW+ in conjunction with checking with the histogram. What sort of pattern should I be looking for on the histogram to maximise the quality of the shots?
I might even give it the monochrome treatment a try as well next time.
Andrzej
Posted 03/03/2009 - 00:09
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The pattern depends on the scene you are photographing. What is relevant is how far from the ends of the scale that pattern is on the histogram. First of all and most importantly, when possible (it isn't always), you don't want any of it going off the scale. Data at the extreme left end indicates something in your image is totally black with no detail. Something on the extreme right means a highlight is blown - pure white with no detail.
Then we come to noise. Due to characteristics of the analogue sensor and circuitry, noise in the dark areas is reduced when exposure is increased to shift the data towards the right. But don't go so far that any highlights are blown (unless you don't mind sacrificing them). Check the histogram and/or the flashing highlights warning.
Then we come to noise. Due to characteristics of the analogue sensor and circuitry, noise in the dark areas is reduced when exposure is increased to shift the data towards the right. But don't go so far that any highlights are blown (unless you don't mind sacrificing them). Check the histogram and/or the flashing highlights warning.
~Pete
Posted 03/03/2009 - 08:33
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Father Ted wrote:
What would be the downside to using high ISO settings?
I took some practice shots in our church today, so I have an idea of what settings I need to use at my son's communion. It was an overcast day and the only way I could get reasonable results without using flash were on ISO 3200.
Now, hopefully, on the day ( in May ) it will be lovely and sunny and nice and bright in church, but just in case. If I use a high ISO and frame the image so as not to need any (or much) cropping, should I be able to get decent quality prints?
Just a thought... have you actually asked if you can use flash? Its been my experience that some churches/priests are much more accommodating than others.
What would be the downside to using high ISO settings?
I took some practice shots in our church today, so I have an idea of what settings I need to use at my son's communion. It was an overcast day and the only way I could get reasonable results without using flash were on ISO 3200.
Now, hopefully, on the day ( in May ) it will be lovely and sunny and nice and bright in church, but just in case. If I use a high ISO and frame the image so as not to need any (or much) cropping, should I be able to get decent quality prints?
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
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2562 posts
18 years
Wirral
I took some practice shots in our church today, so I have an idea of what settings I need to use at my son's communion. It was an overcast day and the only way I could get reasonable results without using flash were on ISO 3200.
Now, hopefully, on the day ( in May ) it will be lovely and sunny and nice and bright in church, but just in case. If I use a high ISO and frame the image so as not to need any (or much) cropping, should I be able to get decent quality prints?
Pentax K3ii, Pentax K10d, Kit lens ( 18-55mm ), 50mm f1.7 lens, Tamron 70-300mm lens, Prinzflex 70-162 manual lens, Various old flashes.