You don't need a complex camera to learn photographic technique. In fact you don't need a complex camera for much. The only variables are shutter speed, aperture and ISO after all.

However, any of the current Pentax digital cameras would do fine, as would any of the discontinued ones.

The idea that you have to use Canon, Nikon or Olympus (why Olympus, that's a bit obscure....) to do a college or university course is IMHO just not true.

The 16-45mm was never introduced as a "consumer zoom" - it has just steadily reduced in price. Don't underestimate it.

Although there is often a relationship between price and performance it's not a 100% reliable yardstick.

Make sure you have adjusted the eyepiece dioptre setting properly. Look through at a plain unfocused surface or sky and adjust until the etched lines are crispest.

All this will confuse. Keep it simple: Make an image of a picture at the largest size you would normally use and at a resolution of 300ppi. Do not sharpen this master copy. If you want to print it, sharpen it at that point.

If you want a smaller version, use the crop tool and for the forum make an image no more than 800 pixels wide. You don't want the forum software resizing as well. Then sharpen that smaller image. 72ppi for this one by the way. Sharpen at 50%, radius 1, threshold 3 and see how it looks when you upload it.

If my images look sharp, yours will be sharp, because you'll be doing exactly what I do.

When comparing fields of view in relation to the foacl length we need to take into account that the "1.5x" or whatever equivalence is approximate and also that field of view is measured on the diagonal, not the width.

Slightly different format shapes could account for discrepances as well.

Then the markings on a lens are also only approximate. A "50mm" lens, for example, will be around 50mm, but could be 47mm or 52mm or anything.....

You must have missed it, because we were using it. As I said though, I can't tell you where because I don't have the K7 here. Next time I handle one I'll find out where the options are and report back.

Using the Transform tool in Photoshop 7. Edit>Transform>Distort was the version I used here.

All the lenses you can use on your MZ30 will work the same way on any of the Pentax DSLRs (and the Samsung clones) so buy with confidence and have fun!

I was helping a friend sort out his K7 with flash and all I can tell you is that there is an option somewhere in the menus to allow the use of the built in flash as a master to trigger studio or other slave flashes.

You also get the option of the built in flash adding to the overall exposure or not.

As I don't have a K7 yet I can't check out where this was unfortunately!

The alternative approach would be to use Interfit or other studio flash that allows the triggering of the units on the first, second or third trigger flash.

A quick try at a possible alternative:
[IMG]http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/johnriley1uk/019-PU-Test.jpg[/IMG]