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That depends on what has been done to each image in Photoshop. As regards crispness, the Pentax shot is significantly better. The contrast and saturation can be adjusted to anything we like.

I suppose it depends how much it cost compared to a standard Paterson tank, or maybe how available and well advertised it was.

It's not necessarily the best product that is the most successful.

Maybe, but we're discussing Pentax cameras!

Title changed as requested.

The Pentax Adapter K is the best one to use. It's properly engineered and also fits flush into the mount on the camera, thus allowing focus to infinity. Some of the adapters are only useable for close up work.

Olympus are not K mount lenses. They are Olympus OM mount and will not fit Pentax cameras, so you did the right thing not to try and force them!

Ideally you want Pentax lenses from the manual focus A series or any of the Pentax autofocus lenses. Lens descriptions will ne SMC Pentax-A for manual focus and SMC Pentax-F, (-FA, FAJ, D-FA, DA, DA* and so on.)

If a lens has an aperture ring it should be set to "A" and if there is no A setting it can still be sued by activating "Use of aperture ring" in the camera menus. In this latter case you will only be able to use M and Av modes and stop down metering.

The lens baby is a special effects lens that only has one sharp spot surrounded by what can be effective blur. The position of the sharp spot can be adjusted using the shift facility.

The shift lens will give pin sharp images all over the frame and is intended mainly for architectural photography, to "correct" converging verticals.

Tilt and shift is only available on large format view cameras. Tilt is not available on 35mm cameras, only shift.

Tilt is what it sounds like and shift is moving the lens to one side of the optical axis.

There was a Pentax 28mm shift lens, but it has not been produced for many years.

They crop up in the adverts in Amateur Photographer and also from time to time on eBay. They are not cheap, but they are excellent lenses.

I would expect that if you wanted one then you could find one, but at a price.

In terms of bird photography the essential thing is usually sharpness and this means high shutter speeds to avoid not only camera shake but also subject movement. You might want the background out of focus to concentrate on the bird, so wider apertures will be very acceptable, especially as distances will not be very close.

That means that ISO may well have to be increased in duller weather, so I would happily increase it until suitable shutter speeds were obtained.

As for mode, AV is fine as as soon as the aperture is widened the shutter speed increases to compensate, so it makes no difference what mode you use. There are only three variables, all interlinked, shutter speed, aperture and ISO.

Any decent lens should perform well enough at wider apertures, especially a telephoto, and although f8 might be the optimum for lens quality that is no use if the picture is blurred.

Well it is Christmas, so I guess that the office staff could be off until the beginning of January.

There are small problems with every marque from time to time and I would say that the camera and its production does not really have anything to do with the new website. The site will no doubt have teething troubles that will be sorted out in time.