That's not "the rest" Stefan, it's another bit of generalisation. As is my comment above, because very few of us ever got the best out of film.

There are lots of "rule of thumb" truisms that can be picked apart the deeper we get into the theory.

AS for "digital is analog and analog is digital" well of course it's true, just rather unhelpful in the real world!

Totally endorse that, certainly in the sense that these books are a great source of inspiration.

If you want to go further back in time, also look out for Photograms of the Year.

Interfit and other manufacturers make IR triggers that sit in the hotshoe of the camera.

These will trigger studio flash, but you do need to check that they will trigger your Metz flashes.

It looks like we've found the problem.

If this 50mm f1.7 lens isn't an A series one, then that is probably the source of any exposure errors as well.

No more so than being able to resolve detail on fim, full frame at that, which has resolution as high as the best digital cameras.

We use the centre of the field of view of film lenses, where the corrections are best. The only downside tends to be chromatic abberation, which is more of a problem with digital.

Not every film lens suits digital capture though, to be fair.

In some cases this may be down to technique. IQ may fall off at longer lengths, but not so much as to render a lens a problem. The 80-320mm lens performs very well when tested, and was commended by AP in its day.

I suspect the reduction in quality may be due to two factors - atmospheric haze and camera shake.

Slide fim does not either, hence my recommendation that everyone should shoot at least one slide film in their lives, just to see how good their exposure technique and compositional skills really are.

Glad you admit it! But seriously, in daylight those are strange settings to be using, whatever were you photographing?

Just the one.

It may be largely down to technique.

To take the moving subject, is it necessary to meter for every shot? The overall light in an area may be similar for quite a while and once set, manual exposure could be very satisfactory.

I'm thinking here of situations like say a race circuit. You meter, you manually focus on a spot and when the racing car arrives just before that spot you press the shutter release. No need for fast AF or auto metering, much of the time anyway.

I wonder if sometimes all the auto functions actually get in the way rather than helping.

The *istD is getting a bit old now and I expect it's relatively slow compared with the current DSLRs.

The *istDS might be a better bet, and you can use SD cards as well.