Hahah

Here's what I do.

Focus on a well defined object at a reasonably far distance. Something like a tree branch/leaves at 20 or so metres with the sky behind it.

Use a tripod and centre focus spot on both live view and viewfinder modes.

Line up the shot using live view, then AF and shoot once to ensure you're happy with the object in focus. Take a reading of the focus scale now, maybe snap an image using your phone for reference. This is the 'correct' focus scale marking for your chosen object.

Now go into viewfinder mode, shift the lens away from correct focus and get the AF to work by pressing the button until confirmed. You can either snap a shot to compare with the previous on 100% image zoom (increases the shutter count) or compare the focus scale with what you had before. If you do this a few times you'll be able to get an idea of how far off your AF adjustment is likely to be.

Now adjust the fine focus value to one of the extremes and repeat. I do this because I ALWAYS forget which adjustment direction is needed to sort out front/back focus. One of the two extremes will bring you towards the correct focus, the other will be way off.

Keep repeating this process for different values of fine focus and you'll start to home in on the perfect adjustment value.

When you're really close, the focus scale might not be enough to differentiate. At this point, snap shots and look at the images at 100% zoom.

I usually aim to get correct focus at the first confirmation of the AF button.

Focus adjustment is all down to the body I believe. Sometimes a lens can have an issue with forked contacts that transmit focal length FL information and this causes problems with focusing. Symptoms include racking AF without correctly locking.

Check to see the FL that the lens reads out corresponds to the FL on the lens zoom ring. Use the quick select menu with the FL adjust (on Info) to make it easier to see how the lens reads out as you turn the zoom ring.

Also, as a side point once you've tweaked the fine focus it should be perfect on that specific focal length. There may be slight shifts at other focal lengths (i.e. +4 on one FL, +7 on another).

If the other lenses are perfect then it won't be something like a dirty AF submirror.

Have you tried fine focus yet? Sorry for the almost incoherent message.. I'm throwing out ideas!

You've inadvertently also described why the 28mm equivalent GR cameras are such bangers!

I end up cropping everything in post as my 'eye' isn't great in the field.

That Q-S1 is pretty.

I once owned a pink/gunmetal combination which I sold quite stupidly. That's probably my favourite colour from the lot but these cream/white leather ones are fantastic.

Brilliant cameras - and they're bulletproof in comparison to the later releases.

If it's a scam, it's a really well designed one. The 360 degree imaging is something I haven't seen too often.

I wonder if they'll take my bargain bin collection of countless 18-55 kit zooms to sell on... with 360 degree images!

That's painful to hear... the K-70 seemed a little bit more reliable with respect to the aperture issue.

What is your K-70's manufacturing date? There was a point after which a different aperture solenoid was used, and they don't seem to have many reports of failure.

If you want the K-70 sorting out, I've done both the filing method as well as the swap for a white solenoid before. In my view the filing method is perfectly fine to use (especially for cheaper models) but I'd recommend the white solenoid swap for something like the K-70.

The KP screen ribbon issue only seems 'common' due to that effect where people only report failures. The name escapes me. And if your KP ends up failing, the ribbon swap is also very easily do-able, taking only a little more time than the aperture solenoid swap. I've found that a generic ribbon can be used to get a very cost effective repair in place (check over on the PF site for my thread), and on AliExpress there's a seller who sells what looks like a copy of the genuine part. It's nearly indistinguishable from the replacement I purchased from John Pye.

Either of the three can be used (and I actually still use my replaced KP without any problems) to get a reliable repair.

But on topic - the K-70 should probably be sorted to reduce the need to overwork the shutter continuously. Does the LV button have the same impact, or is there an 'optical preview' button somewhere that avoids the shutter actuating?

Hi William. Could you add images of the items?

Those D-Li90 batteries definitely surprise me. They've not changed for years yet seem to be 'flagship' standard even today.

Says a lot considering phone batteries are constantly having to strike a balance between size, weight and capacity. Maybe a move back to simpler times could be nice?

Considering I've started to crop a lot more, I think these vignetting results are perfectly workable.