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Comment by Frogfish posted on World's Smallest Raptor - Pied Falconets Part 1 at 09/07/2012 - 18:49
oooh Sexy !!
Thanks for taking the time to show us that very interesting collection Philip.
Thanks for taking the time to show us that very interesting collection Philip.
Comment by Frogfish posted on Tripods and monopods at 04/07/2012 - 19:29
aliengrove wrote:
As far as PP goes, a lot of trial, error and advice from the web have led me to adopt the following method to get the best from images suffering from atmospheric haze.
I started with the RAW files in Lightroom, where I adjusted WB, reduced noise and applied a grad filter from the top to reduce exposure slightly and increase contrast. Then the images were exported to CS5. The images have then had a general levels adjustment, with the lower part of this adjustment erased by about 40% using a large soft-edged brush (a general levels adjustment often makes the bottom of the images too dark).. Then I made selective levels adjustments using feathered masks (between 20 and 60 pixels depending on the size of the area) on different parts of the images. I then used an unsharp mask at a large radius (40 pixels and amount about 30-50) , using a heavily feathered mask (about 100 pixels), on the middle and far parts of the image, which reduces haze by increasing contrast. A few of the images have also had the saturation of the blue channel reduced slightly in the distance, again using a heavily feathered mask, to get rid of a touch of the blue cast you always get from altitude. All these adjusrments need careful fiddling to get them to blend into each other. Sometimes I tweak the individual masks by erasing parts of them using a soft-edged eraser at various opacities.The whole process perhaps sounds tedious but it generally takes about 10 minutes per image. Finally they are sharpened conventionally using unsharp mask.
Alternatively in Picasa hit .. 'Take a Chance' !As far as PP goes, a lot of trial, error and advice from the web have led me to adopt the following method to get the best from images suffering from atmospheric haze.
I started with the RAW files in Lightroom, where I adjusted WB, reduced noise and applied a grad filter from the top to reduce exposure slightly and increase contrast. Then the images were exported to CS5. The images have then had a general levels adjustment, with the lower part of this adjustment erased by about 40% using a large soft-edged brush (a general levels adjustment often makes the bottom of the images too dark).. Then I made selective levels adjustments using feathered masks (between 20 and 60 pixels depending on the size of the area) on different parts of the images. I then used an unsharp mask at a large radius (40 pixels and amount about 30-50) , using a heavily feathered mask (about 100 pixels), on the middle and far parts of the image, which reduces haze by increasing contrast. A few of the images have also had the saturation of the blue channel reduced slightly in the distance, again using a heavily feathered mask, to get rid of a touch of the blue cast you always get from altitude. All these adjusrments need careful fiddling to get them to blend into each other. Sometimes I tweak the individual masks by erasing parts of them using a soft-edged eraser at various opacities.The whole process perhaps sounds tedious but it generally takes about 10 minutes per image. Finally they are sharpened conventionally using unsharp mask.
Comment by Frogfish posted on First time lucky with a Kx at 04/07/2012 - 15:52
Great set ! How did you get to take these (assume scheduled consumer flight - which route) ?
I like the last the best - those glaciers are immense and numerous. It looks as though there are half a dozen avalanches going on (though I'm sure it's just wisps of cloud) !
I like the last the best - those glaciers are immense and numerous. It looks as though there are half a dozen avalanches going on (though I'm sure it's just wisps of cloud) !
Comment by Frogfish posted on First time lucky with a Kx at 04/07/2012 - 15:50
Damn gorgeous Gaz !
*not you - the shots*
*not you - the shots*
Comment by Frogfish posted on Greater Spotted Woodpecker and a Great Tit at 04/07/2012 - 15:42
Frogherder wrote:
Frogfish - It's been pretty humid here for the last month, hasn't stopped raining
Bummer Bernhard - at least it's dry during the day here (most days), that heat and high humidity is giving us some cracking electric storms though (one going on now).Frogfish - It's been pretty humid here for the last month, hasn't stopped raining
Accuweather gives 'Real Feel' temps of 44-48C for this weekend when I'm birding in Wuyuan (great birds but a 5 hour drive each way). I might be better off driving at night and saving a night's room at the hotel !
Comment by Frogfish posted on how to store camera and lenses at 03/07/2012 - 16:13
DR is best at lower ISOs so ISO100 is where the K5 starts (before enabling the extended range) but I know that ISO80 is where landscapers want to be .... and like Smeggy I turned on the expanded range to ISO 80 almost as soon as I switched it on.
I think all 'pro' testing agencies/magazines etc. also test at ISO100 for that same reason, DR diminishes as you go higher.
I think all 'pro' testing agencies/magazines etc. also test at ISO100 for that same reason, DR diminishes as you go higher.
Comment by Frogfish posted on K5 - ISO 80 at 03/07/2012 - 15:30
All my cameras and lenses currently sit in a cupboard in the study when not in daily use - I have large silica gel packs in the cupboard and in China (in most countries where it gets very humid) you can also buy little plastic containers full of Silica Gel - you can see when they need replacing as they will be full of water We also have a couple of large room dehumidifiers, one of which is placed in the study next to the cupboard (doors open) once a week (it fills with water, 2-3 litres, in one day) !
Yesterday we hit 42C here and it was still 38C at 18.00 And it is always humid !
Next up on the 'to buy list' is a dehumidifier for lenses - quite large ones with 3 or 4 shelves (good for 20-30 lenses and 3-4 cameras) go for ca. £120-150 here and are well worth the money it seems (according to people here who should know - the retailers) !
Yesterday we hit 42C here and it was still 38C at 18.00 And it is always humid !
Next up on the 'to buy list' is a dehumidifier for lenses - quite large ones with 3 or 4 shelves (good for 20-30 lenses and 3-4 cameras) go for ca. £120-150 here and are well worth the money it seems (according to people here who should know - the retailers) !
Comment by Frogfish posted on how to store camera and lenses at 03/07/2012 - 15:19
Simples.
The DA*300 is a superb lens in almost every way (the SDM isn't the fastest - that aside it's near damn perfect). The K5 is the better camera however cameras come and go whereas that lens will last you a decade or more if you handle it nicely.
With new cameras on the way from Pentax you should be able to pick up a second-hand K5 next year at a bargain price.
That said if you opt for the K5+55-300 then there is always a market for the 55-300 when you come to sell it on for the DA*300. I started with the 55-300 but TBH I almost never used the lens at anything except the long end (BTW 240-260 and cropping to a 300 FoV is sharper than shooting at 300).
Since buying the DA*300 I never use the 55-300 (though I recently had it out for the first time in more than a year when putting it on my back-up camera for my daughter to use).
Wirral eh ? I grew up in Bromborough.
The DA*300 is a superb lens in almost every way (the SDM isn't the fastest - that aside it's near damn perfect). The K5 is the better camera however cameras come and go whereas that lens will last you a decade or more if you handle it nicely.
With new cameras on the way from Pentax you should be able to pick up a second-hand K5 next year at a bargain price.
That said if you opt for the K5+55-300 then there is always a market for the 55-300 when you come to sell it on for the DA*300. I started with the 55-300 but TBH I almost never used the lens at anything except the long end (BTW 240-260 and cropping to a 300 FoV is sharper than shooting at 300).
Since buying the DA*300 I never use the 55-300 (though I recently had it out for the first time in more than a year when putting it on my back-up camera for my daughter to use).
Wirral eh ? I grew up in Bromborough.
Comment by Frogfish posted on K-r da* 300 or K-5 55-300 at 03/07/2012 - 04:57
Redninja01 wrote:
It is amazing value for money when you think this $150 lens is up against two $1,000+ lenses.Frogfish wrote:
You can check out the Tamron BB 500 mirror performance in a comparison thread I've just put up :
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/garden-tests---da-300-vs-tokina-300-2-8-v...
Had a look at this and must say like the quality of the shots given by the Tamron. You can check out the Tamron BB 500 mirror performance in a comparison thread I've just put up :
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/garden-tests---da-300-vs-tokina-300-2-8-v...
Comment by Frogfish posted on mirror lens or a 2x converter at 02/07/2012 - 20:18
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The average size of the smallest falcons is about 15 cm (6 in.), and weigh 35 g (1.23 oz.). There are about 10 or so very small falcons, found in different regions and habitats across the world. The smallest are the Black-thighed Falconet (Microhierax fringillarius) found throughout Southeast Asia, and the White-fronted Falconet (Microhierax latifrons) on the island of Borneo.
Other species of the Falconet genus Microhierax include the Collared Falconet (Microhierax caerulescens), the Philippine Falconet, Microhierax erythrogenys) and the Pied Falconet (Microhierax melanoleucus).
The Spot-winged Falconet (Spiziapteryx circumcincta) is found in south america.
Another group of small falcons are the Pygmy falcons belonging to the genus Polihierax which includes the african Pygmy-falcon (Polihierax semitorquatus) the White-rumped Falcon or White-rumped Pygmy-falcon (Polihierax insignis).
By comparison the smallest falcon in North America is the American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) which is 20-28cm (8-11 in) in length and weighs over three times as much as of most of these small falconets.
The adult Pied Falconets feed mostly on insects, but also on small birds up to x3 larger than themselves e.g. thrushes, and also small ground mammals and reptiles. Insects and birds are taken in flight.
Adult Pied Falconets (aka Pied Pygmy Falcon, White-legged Falconet) are variously given from different internet sources as averaging 16-18cms (6 -7 ins).
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From watching these birds for about 10 hours over 4 days (not one shot until after 7.5 hours) I can say their hunting success rate is around 90% ! Their prey rarely escapes capture. Which during these 4 days comprised of dragonflies, butterflies and another couple saw them also take a small bird.
Seen in some of these shots are a parent and fledgling and the parent twice called the fledgling in to share the prey (a dragonfly and a butterfly).
Hope you enjoy these ! All taken with a Pentax K5, DA*300 and AFA x1.7 TC.
Fledgling
Into Action !
Gargoyle
Bigger than a dragonfly - just
Going Home
What Did You Say ?
Sleep Guru
No, Not Even A Wing !
Fast Landing
Fantail
You'll Eat Your Dragonfly and Like It !
Angel of Mercy
One Handed
That's My Girl !