thanks, I was joking about the price of course.
I know absolutely nothing about flashes. That flash looks like a good place to restart my research.

it was tripod mounted.
As soon as I saw the guy whipping the job off the press I just had to capture everything. the slow exposure was fine but captured nothing of the operator who moved very quickly. The slow sync (1 sec I think) essentially got this image but the press was over exposed and the factory al muddy and 'orrible.
Actually, on reflection this is a bad example. This wasn't the fault of the flash and as you say Dan, I needed a rig to light the rest.
No, just walking around taking snaps, the flash was too puny. I don't use flash either if I can help it, but sometimes, there's no alternative.

well I am trying not to spend any more than a vivitar but I suspect I'll be dissapointed. £150 ish preferably less!!
I recently had to take shots in a factory and ended up taking two - one with, and one without flash and compositing them together to get anything usable.
on this I used the slow sink to get the operator's arm moving but also 'stop' the client's print job coming off the press. the 'no flash' shot was used to fill in the factory and properly expose the press.

wow! 158 views and no replies...
in that case, can someone tell what's wrong with this question?

Feel free to just point me in the right direction.
I have discovered the hard way that the on board flash is not very powerful so I am looking for a versatile flash for general use, the odd product shot or location shoot.

I am still getting to grips with all the camera settings and don't have much of a budget, so an expensive flash with a million functions will possibly result in worse pictures than a simple set up. However I do like to experiment and be creative.
So is the Vivitar 285HV a good choice or should I stump up for a dedicated Flash so I don't end up frustrated. If I buy the vivitar will I be able to use it as a slave later?

Thanks John,
Clearly a very pragmatic aproach.
I can't remember where I saw the stuff about keeping to the light end of the histogram but it was only intended as a technique for eeking out the last vestiges of info, so I can see your real-world aproach is better 95% of the time.
I spent many happy years with a P30 and slide film, I must go thru them one day and see how many were badly exposed. I suspect I am in for a shock

I find my K10D under-exposes. I think this is a common 'complaint' and possibly based on trying to emulate film or specifically slide behaviour? is this true?
I am going to have to compensate with the EV dial.
Does anyone know if this just amplifies the signal or if it actually changes the settings so the sensor gets a longer exposure?
My camera shop man tells me it is better to be dark but my understanding is, as long as you don't blow the highlights there's more data in the light end so you should process down, not up?
I have tried metering all sorts of ways.
Otherwise really chuffed with the camera, it's blooming' lovely to use.

definitely not scientific
it only took me about 3 minutes to conduct the entire test and upload the results. Try it yourself, I was amazed.
I never use SR, but I will now.

Thanks Daniel, Maybe I'll stick my neck out and put up a shot for you guys to inspect... gulp...
I'm actually suprised how bad the first one is. I felt that they were both really steady, nice and relaxed , gently exhailing, camera not pressing against my nose. but that first one is shocking!


Does anyone know what the downside is if you forget to turn off shake reduction?

actually, looking at it I wonder if I should have included the edge of the screen. in case the screen refresh was having an effect. but I did take several and there was a clear set of successful shots and useless ones (I lost track of which had SR on and off ( ) apart from the two posted).

forgot to turn off manual mode - under exposed