ChrisA

Joined: 4th January 2007

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ChrisA
Quote:
Anyway, I stand corrected - in that one it isn't as slight as I thought !
I wasn't so much attacking your use of 'very slight', more trying to calibrate my own expectations.

I never used extreme wide angle lenses (nothing, in fact, shorter than 28mm) in my film days, so I have no idea what was 'normal' in the way of distortions with the lenses that were very wide on 35mm.

So I have nothing to compare with, when I see distortions arising from the use of lenses designed for the 24x16 sensor.

Comment by ChrisA posted on Trying out my new Sigma 10-20mm... at 02/12/2007 - 18:55

ChrisA
Quote:
Very slight barrel distortion corrected by Bibble.
Quote:
Hyram wrote:
How much correction was done to the M3 photo ?
I just unticked the lens correction in Bibble and here's a completely uncorrected version for comparison:

It isn't all that noticeable in most pictures, the above is probably the worst case due to the placement of the river bank.
Hmm.

If that's 'very slight', then the barrel distortion of the Tamron 18-250 at the 18mm end would have to be "virtually nonexistent".

Were these distortions equally noticeable with full-frame 35mm, at the focal lengths giving the same AOV as these lenses that are extreme wide angle at 24x16?

Comment by ChrisA posted on Trying out my new Sigma 10-20mm... at 02/12/2007 - 18:21

ChrisA
Quote:
Looks nice and sharp
The trouble is, none of these is taken wider than 29, nor longer than 92.

If you're going to get a superzoom then you're going to want to use it at the extremes - or at least a lot closer to them than these.

So these shots are Ok as far as they go, but they don't really show anything about its usefulness in the circumstances where it would really count.

Comment by ChrisA posted on Comments Please at 25/11/2007 - 19:59

ChrisA
Quote:
Chris.

Did you take all the images in Auto Mode ?
Erm. I usually have it in Program Mode, if that's what you mean. Actually it's in User Mode, which is usually Program with a few changes.

I use what it says about the exposure as a starting point, and if I want a different exposure then I change it.

Not sure if this answers the question.

Comment by ChrisA posted on Yet more Sydney Harbour (and surroundings) at 28/11/2007 - 23:39

ChrisA
It's almost impossible to get both the Bridge and the Opera House in the same shot if you're on dry land, and between them:

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And I ruined most taken from this angle with flare. This was the only salvageable one:

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Comment by ChrisA posted on Yet more Sydney Harbour (and surroundings) at 28/11/2007 - 13:43

ChrisA
Quote:
White is a difficult tone to photograph as i have found.
Tell me about it... If I had a quid for every photo I've ruined by burning out the whites....

Although the SOH isn't white, of course, more of a cream colour.

Quote:
What lens did you use and did you use a polariser. : My guess is yes.
Nope. All of them except the bridge from the zoo (which was the FAJ 75-300) were taken with the DA18-55, IIRC, and the only polariser I had with me was a 72mm which I used with the FA 28-200 some of the time.

Thanks for the comments

Comment by ChrisA posted on Yet more Sydney Harbour (and surroundings) at 28/11/2007 - 12:57

ChrisA
The way Clarky's been reminding me of my wonderful holiday back in September, I thought I'd share a few of my photos too. It always amazes me the apparently infinite variation there is in the way different people capture very similar scenes.

The Opera House:

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The Bridge...

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.. and a less conventional view of it, from the zoo:

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Darling Harbour:

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.. and parts of the skyline:

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Any critique always gratefully received.

Comment by ChrisA posted on Yet more Sydney Harbour (and surroundings) at 28/11/2007 - 12:25

ChrisA
Quote:
Um, think that's not quite right.
You're quite right Dan. Again. (It was you that caught me out with sloppy arithmetic over magnification factors IIRC).

I obviously need to go back to primary school.

Comment by ChrisA posted on Another moon photo at 27/11/2007 - 08:31

ChrisA
Quote:
Just curious! What is your recommendation for a shutter speed for shooting the moon. I have been trying with a slower speed to try and get some framing effects with the foreground (trees etc - the effect is quite good but it just blurs the moon).
From the table at the bottom of the article here, the angle of view with a 300mm lens is about 4.6 degrees.

The moon moves at 360/24 = 15 degrees per hour, or 0.25 degrees per minute, so 0.004 degrees per second.

This might not sound much, but if the moon tracks horizontally across the 3872 pixel wide K10D frame, this represents a blur of 16 pixels.

So an exposure shorter than 1/16 will be a blur smaller than 1 pixel.

At 1/60, the blur will be about a quarter of a pixel, which I doubt you'd see.

Comment by ChrisA posted on Another moon photo at 26/11/2007 - 10:25

ChrisA
Quote:
Curious about the exposure and shutter as well.
It appears to be 1/500s at F8, ISO 560.

There's a free extension for Firefox called "Exif Viewer". Can't recommend it highly enough.

Quote:
300 is really a little short for the moon, so this is about as good as you could expect to get. Very nice.
I'd agree with this. The sharpening has been slightly overdone, I think, since noise is starting to become apparent. Might be able to get it slightly better by setting the camera back to neutral sharpness (this gets recorded in the Exif too) and only sharpening (once) on the computer. Although the moon does move very fast, 1/500s is a bit faster than really necessary, so maybe a lower ISO next time would give you a bit less noise.

Comment by ChrisA posted on Another moon photo at 25/11/2007 - 09:07

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