ChrisA

Joined: 4th January 2007

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ChrisA
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You can think of Raw as being like a film negative and Jpeg as a film transparency.

You work from the raw file/negative and it is never altered but your 'print' is manipulated in whichever way you want.
Keeping the original JPEG unaltered can be achieved in the same way you keep any other file unaltered - you "Save As" rather than "Save" when you're done editing, and create a separate file.

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A camera jpeg is a bit like a transparency in that there isn't much you can do with it.
I've heard this claimed before, but I don't understand it. Raw gives you the ability to recover more detail in some circumstances, but I'd be interested to know of any other things you can't do with a JPEG.

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Slightly blown highlights. If you have the jpg from the camera the highlights are blown already. If you have the RAW file you can recover quite a lot in SilkyPix. You then save the jpg from SP and the highlights are recovered.
I'm not sure what you mean here. It isn't true that you can recover burned out highlights from a RAW image. If the amount of light falling on the sensor is more than the maximum it can resolve, the detail is gone, and nothing in the world can get it back.

There's no such thing as a "slightly blown highlight". There may be smaller or larger areas of the image where the highlights are blown, but a highlight is either blown, or it isn't.

Comment by ChrisA posted on help with raw at 13/01/2008 - 11:40

ChrisA
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ChrisA wrote:
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I suppose getting the timing circuitry accurate enough might be too difficult/expensive.
Yes, very probably.
Although if you think what it needs to be able to do to achieve a choice of leading and trailing curtain sync, I'm not sure I'm being all that unreasonable.
My own opinion is that there are working alternatives in the form of radio/IR slave triggers available at reasonable cost. There is no need at present to elevate the cost of camera bodies and flash units even further by adding functionality that most users will not need or use.
Agreed. Wireless flash isn't exactly an obscure feature that few people will use, though.

I'm just griping at the way they've implemented it - although if it would have been much more expensive to do it as I imagined they had, it probably wouldn't be worth it.

Comment by ChrisA posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 14/01/2008 - 11:20

ChrisA
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I suppose getting the timing circuitry accurate enough might be too difficult/expensive.
Yes, very probably.
Although if you think what it needs to be able to do to achieve a choice of leading and trailing curtain sync, I'm not sure I'm being all that unreasonable.

Comment by ChrisA posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 14/01/2008 - 10:28

ChrisA
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ChrisA wrote:
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Are you suggesting that the final pre-flash from the camera takes place while the shutter is open?

I hope this isn't the case!

Mannesty wrote:

Sorry Chris, but that is the case. Both flashes fire at the same time in any wireless mode. When the onboard is used as a controller, it still fires, but at a reduced output.

Take a wireless shot in the mirror, that'll prove it to you, you'll see both flashes light up.
You're quite right, I take it all back, my apologies.

How crap is that!!!

Why on earth can't it know the timing of the external gun's reaction, and the length of time it takes to open the shutter, so that the final pre-flash can fire before the shutter opens?

Grrr...
No apology necessary. AFAIK that's how all camera based wireless flash controllers work.
Well I'm very disappointed.

I suppose getting the timing circuitry accurate enough might be too difficult/expensive.

I just thought that it would be able to know that (for instance) after the button is pressed all the way down, it would be x milliseconds to send the final preflash, so the shutter could open any time after that, to coincide with the main flash.

This would mean that the final preflash would have been all gone by the time the shutter was open.

Doing all this optically is a bit pants anyway, though - I bet it won't be the future.

Comment by ChrisA posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 14/01/2008 - 10:11

ChrisA
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Are you suggesting that the final pre-flash from the camera takes place while the shutter is open?

I hope this isn't the case!

Mannesty wrote:

Sorry Chris, but that is the case. Both flashes fire at the same time in any wireless mode. When the onboard is used as a controller, it still fires, but at a reduced output.

Take a wireless shot in the mirror, that'll prove it to you, you'll see both flashes light up.
You're quite right, I take it all back, my apologies.

How crap is that!!!

Why on earth can't it know the timing of the external gun's reaction, and the length of time it takes to open the shutter, so that the final pre-flash can fire before the shutter opens?

Grrr...

Comment by ChrisA posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 14/01/2008 - 09:57

ChrisA
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If the built-in is controller, then only the external flash fires.
Not true. The built-in certainly does fire because it is that small flash which triggers the wireless slave.
If you read what I wrote again, you'll see that I distinguish carefully between what happens before the shutter opens, and what happens after.

I've hopefully clarified it a little with what I've added in bold below:

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Then the shutter opens. Then...

If the built-in is master, then both it and the external flash fire after the shutter has opened

If the built-in is controller, then only the external flash fires after the shutter has opened.

In the latter case, I don't see how the camera-pre flashes can affect the exposure, since all they're doing is telling the external gun what to do.
Are you suggesting that the final pre-flash from the camera takes place while the shutter is open?

I hope this isn't the case!

Comment by ChrisA posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 14/01/2008 - 09:19

ChrisA
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However If you are taking a real closeup shot from say around 1-1.5ft I find it hard to believe that even firing the pop-up as the controller that it does not affect something in the shot, this is only my personal opinion which may differ greatly from the actual (more than likely).
I don't see how it can. AIUI, the sequence of events is as follows:

- camera pre-flash triggers the external pre-flash
- camera does its metering based on the external pre-flash
- second camera pre-flash tells the external gun how much to emit

Then the shutter opens. Then...

If the built-in is master, then both it and the external flash fire.

If the built-in is controller, then only the external flash fires.

In the latter case, I don't see how the camera-pre flashes can affect the exposure, since all they're doing is telling the external gun what to do.

Comment by ChrisA posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 13/01/2008 - 13:24

ChrisA
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That was just what I was going to try changing, when the flash system failed! It will be the first thing I try when I get my beloved K10D back.
Just to confirm, I've done a few test shots, and the master/controller setting does work exactly as you'd expect - 'controller' fires the external flash (Samsung SEF-54PZF, the equivalent of the Pentax AF540-FGZ in my case) without contributing to the exposure.

As 'master', not only does the built-in contribute to the exposure, but it contributes a variable amount according to whether you dial in a compensation value or not.

Comment by ChrisA posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 13/01/2008 - 10:59

ChrisA
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Wireless flash with the K10D is not wireless as such, it can be described as optical wireless, in other words the remote guns (your 360's) HAVE to see the flash from the popup, works fine if you have 360's, 540's (or equivelent Sigma, Metz), but I still think the popup contributes some unwanted light to the shot, especially in a confined enviroment (small studio, livingroom etc).
There's a setting in the custom menu for the K10D that lets you specify whether the built-in flash should be master or controller in wireless mode.

If it's the controller, I believe it does not contribute to the exposure.

Comment by ChrisA posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 13/01/2008 - 10:18

ChrisA
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As far as I know, the AF assist beam will only come on when the flash is mounted on the hotshoe (or maybe when it's off camera with a cord - haven't got a cord to try that scenario).
With the (Samsung version of the) AF540, this is correct.

It does work off camera with the 5P cable and the relevant bits on the ends (and indeed with the 5P cable plugged into the flashgun).

It does not work wirelessly, not surprisingly, since there would have to be all manner of control flashes going on, and these only take place after the shutter release button is fully pressed, not half-pressed which is what triggers the AF assist light (which precedes the actual focusing, obviously).

Comment by ChrisA posted on taking photos in the dark at 11/01/2008 - 14:38

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