Hi to all of you following this rather sad story.
Not being entirely familiar with the MZ-7 and having scrutinised the User Manual until my eyes are sore but seeing it as an alternative mini computer controlled image machine - I have a question.

Is there an internal electronics Re-set button that can be operated with a fine probe similar to the part-used film rewind facility?

Hi David. There-by hangs a problem. I don't know - simply because when fresh batteries are inserted and before the power switch is activated there is a faint whirring sound as though a motor is running.
Even after powering up the whirring continues but there is absolutely nothing in the LCD screen other than the counter showing 1 but there is no film in the body - but with this model it shows a n exposed frame value even when the power switch is OFF. I have always thought it a neat little feature.

The issue first came about after loading new fresh batteries and a new film and at an indoor shopping mall with the camera set to Auto Pict, I shot the first frame and then the mirror locked-up on the second frame.
By the time I got home and with the power switch in the OFF position - the batteries were absolutely flat.
The camera has been 'Resting' now for some 5or6days without batteries and the power switch in the OFF position - but nothing upon inserting new batteries again.

Hi John. I have already carried out those exercises albeit my MZ-7 uses two CR2 Photo Power batteries.
I left the depleted batteries out for 28hrs and then installed two completely fresh ones - but nothing.
When I very very gently pulled down the mirror it was totally free and then returned to the up position again.
I have even used two batteries from a second MZ-7 that functions perfectly well - but nothing.

Hi Peter. I have always been a 'Glass half full' man but yes, I had fully realised that the end was a forgone conclusion.
It is a bin job come Tuesday and I have already prepared a eulogy for a "Technological short-term product made shorter by manufacturers cost-cutting tactics.
RIPL ( Rest In Pentax Land) albeit without your eyes (lens).

Hi again Chris. I will send an E'mail to Eric and seek an estimate based upon the fact that this is such a known issue.
I will weigh the camera +lens and check out the international postage rates at my local post office.

Hi Kris. Would I be correct in assuming that Eric Hendrickson is in the USA or have I got it completely wrong and he is actually here in the UK?

Hi Chris. Thank you for your input. I don't know what sort of money, albeit you are dealing in the USA $ and not £ sterling, that an MZ-7 is fetching with either a 28-80 or a 35-80 lens over there where you are based BUT here in the UK they are going for between £20.00 and as high as £100.00 and selling (on E'bay).
All are allegedly "fully functional" and often come with additional lenses including a variety of telephoto options.
I guess that with a camera of some 12-14yrs old and a cost on E'bay of £21.00 I really have no case to grumble and it was probably nothing less than bad luck/hard luck albeit the camera had allegedly had little use and was a "back-up" camera.
I assume that Eric Hendrickson is very close to you in New York.
I actually do have a Yashica 230AF with 35-70 Macro and a 70-210 lenses both bought new in 1988 and also a recently purchased - absolutely mint and all boxed 2nd 230AF body with a 75-300 Macro lens purchased through a photographic equipment dealer in Pudsey,West Yorkshire,England.
I have since located a further MZ-7 but with a 35-80 lens that seems a great-deal more like "very little use" than the first one.
Time will tell and hopefully later than sooner!!!!

Hi Offertonhatter. An interesting forum ID. Is it connected to a past occupation and perhaps locally in Denton?
It would appear that most of the MZ series suffered with the cost cutting/lighting in weight tactics of using plastic for internal gears and other components.
The saving grace with the MZ-7 that I have is that it has metal Face to Face for the lens mounts and not the plastic one that I here spoken of.
I bought the MZ-7 as a smaller & lighter alternative to carrying my Yashica 230AF outfit around in the car.
My first impressions of it were favourable and then !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I would certainly be interested in knowing who it is and what cost is involved in having the camera repaired and that is assuming that it is a damaged plastic gear wheel that is the culprit and not faulty electrics as well.

Hi John. My attempt to lower the mirror was carried out in the lightest of contact terms - yes I do know how delicate the internals of an SLR are. It was done from the very centre of the mirror frame.
Yes,the issue of electric circuits is also something that I have experience of but not camera related. Mother boards,PCB's and the like and especially those associated with modern-day automotive functioning and the insistence for multiple earthing.
The battery supply and contacts are all fine,indeed when the power switch in the off position must be a serious clue as to what has gone belly-up - there is a sound of motion or a motor activating as the battery hatch is closed and before it is secured!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am advised that repairs are a very very definite NO NO even if parts were available.
If it was repairable,there is a very definite possibility that as is the case with many many modern products - a newly inserted part will bring about failure in another.
A bit like giving a 90yr old a new heart and lungs but not the knees to take up running again.

Hi again Alan. The reply that I sent was in response to a message that I receive not long ( indeed very soon after) after posting of my woes with my MZ-7 and the Mirror Lock-up.
On that subject - I had removed the batteries (brand new and with an 01-2023 date) after noting that they had all-but drained within a few hours of discovering the issue.
I left the camera for a couple of days with no batteries and then inserted two new ones.
It had been suggested by a third party to leave the camera resting for a while and without batteries as it has been know to clear the issue of mirror lock-up.
I had not activated the power switch and the camera was making a low level noise as though something is being powered-up.
I am all but ready to assign the camera to the scrap bin.