Yep you're right, forgot about that one

I don't believe the camera is fast enough to write at those speeds and even if they can the processor is probably more a limiting factor then the write speed.

As some know i'm quite a fan of anime and downloading is the easier way to see them but they use several kind of codecs. Now a days it's luckily mostly MKV but they pack it with several audio tracks and subtitles sometimes in different filetypes as well.
VLC and other players have some difficulties with that so packs was the way to get them to work.

Now comes the second problem though.
I'm planning to buy a android tablet to replace my windows tablet since it's getting old but i mostly use it for media so now the hunt is on to find a good mediaplayer for android that work with MKV and the audiotracks and the subtitles...
Anyone know a good one?

Coreplayer perhaps?

SDXC doesn't meant they are faster only that they are bigger or are you saying that a class 4 SDHC is slower than a class 4 SDXC

btw about SDXC, has anyone tried one of those cards in older camera's that support SDHC. When reading the papers about SDXC and SDHC it doesn't seem they are different when it comes to hardware or hardware standards so they might work in SDHC devices without a problem if the firmware isn't locked to a size limit.....

This guy is very good when it comes to colours, he has followed several professional courses so he knows what he is talking about so certainly worth a read.

http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/features.html


One thing i don't understand is how you print your photos....
If you make a custom profile for your prints and use that profile in photoshop to convert your photo with why would it matter if your photo is in RGB of CMYK? And why would you use CMYK instead of the custom profile instead????
I would simply use the soft-proof option with your custom profile selected and keep working in the RGB space since that gives you the best quality.
And what's the differnce if you say against photoshop in the printer menu that he must use that profile for printing or that you convert the photo first to that profile and then say against photoshop to use the profile?

Also if you don't like your hardware to decide the colours, why do you shoot in JPG and not in RAW... in the start you already let your hardware decide the colours so why does that control matter so much in the end?

edit: The links that you want to read
CMYK for photographers (1) http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/colour_management/cmyk_for_phot...
CMYK for photographers (2) - Press management http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/colour_management/cmyk_part2.ht...

Is there a big price difference?
btw there are 2 different extreme III version, 20MB/s and 30MB/s you may find the 20MB/s version for a very good price.

Arent you a pro if they majority of your income consist of selling photo's?

Not again, just try googling SDM malfunctions for the 17-70, you will find 1 or 2 but those are solved by cleaning the contacts so not the crazy things you read about the DA*16-50 and the DA*50-135 lenses.

I've read though that the lens might hunt a bit at the higher focal lengths because it isn't able to lock on but besides that it looks like a fine lens.

the biggest problem with the player is that it's being develop in china so some options aren't fully translated yet and things like that but so far it does work very well. I used to use K-lite as well but the amount of codecs it installs and different plugins gets quite difficult to manage after a while, just one player is far easier.

And yes i'm back again.
I finally have a job and that was consuming a lot of my time so it was foor a good reason i wasn't online that much thankfully.

VLC have some quirks with soft subs but it should work well for your video's
I now a days use splayer since it does show the subs correctly and work with all the files so far.
http://www.splayer.org/index.en.html

Since when does your monitor display CMYK they can only simulate CMYK but will never be able to display it since it's a RGB device.

You can work in aRGB there is nothing wrong with that if your devices can handle that space.

For printing there are a few options but you shouldn't convert your images to CMYK if you don't send it to a producer.
For home use just use the RGB space since that's what the monitor can display and is the native colour space of your image. Photoshop will automatically convert the colours between the spaces when you print it.

The thing you might want to do is to proof your colours.
The best way to do that is to click on view>proof-setup and chose the printing profile you use.
The file will still be in RGB and you will work in that space but the image will be soft-proofed to the chosen profile.
And when you print the image make sure that Photoshop handles the profile and the profile you use for soft-proofing is select, that way you should get pretty accurate colour result if the profiles are good that is.
So don't use just any profile for the printer but use a profile specially make for the printer, the inkt and the paper you use or else the proofing is of little meaning.
Epson probably provide profiles for their inkt and papers so use those profiles, if you use different inkt or paper you need a different profile.
Ilford provide some profiles on their side for example and you can create your own profiles if you've a device for that.

ps. brightness is quite hard to get right because with a montior you're looking into a light while paper merely reflects it. so if you want to be very accurate you even need a calibrated light to check the colours and contrast visually.