All Forum Comments
Comment by AndrzejT posted on Setting White Balance at 13/03/2009 - 11:37
Can anyone help me, I have question about setting white balance. Up until now I haven’t given it much thought and just left in auto “AWB” setting on my K20D.
Having shot some images in RAW the other day I found I had to take the temperature down a little whilst processing, to get best colours in my photos.
This leads me to ask the question, should I be relying on AWB or setting it correctly before shooting?
Please note this is all linked to my questions on shooting with high ISO so I am working in low indoor light situation. However, as a point of reference should I always being setting the white balance before shooting or is this over kill?
Al the best
Andrzej
Having shot some images in RAW the other day I found I had to take the temperature down a little whilst processing, to get best colours in my photos.
This leads me to ask the question, should I be relying on AWB or setting it correctly before shooting?
Please note this is all linked to my questions on shooting with high ISO so I am working in low indoor light situation. However, as a point of reference should I always being setting the white balance before shooting or is this over kill?
Al the best
Andrzej
Comment by AndrzejT posted on Setting White Balance at 09/03/2009 - 14:14
Hi Steve
I would be interested. However, with two active youngsters in the family finding an evening free is always a big ask!
All the best
Andrzej
I would be interested. However, with two active youngsters in the family finding an evening free is always a big ask!
All the best
Andrzej
Comment by AndrzejT posted on South Wales Pentax Users? at 07/03/2009 - 09:37
Hi All
Even with my comments above I am probably going for a Sigma 120-400 with HSM. However, as some of you know I have been posting on another form regarding shooting in low light and as Steve and Mike have rightly pointed out for my work with the theatre group I would be better off with a faster lens. Unfortunately, the budget won’t stretch to two new lenses and I was thinking of a fast 70-200 mm f2.8 with a 2x converter for my wildlife and sports work.
Would this work and has anyone got experience of using the Sigma or Tamron 70-200mm f2.8 like this, or is it folly? I am trying to play golf with one club and do I have to accept that to get good quality pictures I need to invest in the right tools for the job!
All the best
Andrzej
Even with my comments above I am probably going for a Sigma 120-400 with HSM. However, as some of you know I have been posting on another form regarding shooting in low light and as Steve and Mike have rightly pointed out for my work with the theatre group I would be better off with a faster lens. Unfortunately, the budget won’t stretch to two new lenses and I was thinking of a fast 70-200 mm f2.8 with a 2x converter for my wildlife and sports work.
Would this work and has anyone got experience of using the Sigma or Tamron 70-200mm f2.8 like this, or is it folly? I am trying to play golf with one club and do I have to accept that to get good quality pictures I need to invest in the right tools for the job!
All the best
Andrzej
Comment by AndrzejT posted on Telephoto Zoom lenses and Pentax K20D at 07/03/2009 - 00:51
Thanks Lads
I have used my Pentax software to get the pictures into JPEGs so I get get them to the Theatre group to have a look at. In the meantime I will have a look at the above options and acquire one of them to improve on my current images.
All the best
Andrzej
I have used my Pentax software to get the pictures into JPEGs so I get get them to the Theatre group to have a look at. In the meantime I will have a look at the above options and acquire one of them to improve on my current images.
All the best
Andrzej
Comment by AndrzejT posted on High ISO settings at 07/03/2009 - 00:34
Quote:
To be fair, that's all very well but Silkypix is a RAW converter. Although you can make adjustments, it is not a full image editing program.
So I think the question is what does the user require and this can be a different answer for different purposes.
Hi JohnTo be fair, that's all very well but Silkypix is a RAW converter. Although you can make adjustments, it is not a full image editing program.
So I think the question is what does the user require and this can be a different answer for different purposes.
As you can guess I currently have RAW pictures which I need to convert to JPEGs. I need to try adjusting all the usual things such as exposure, contrast, saturation, etc to get the best out of the picture. Would there be anyway of filtering the noise out or has this got to be done by the Camera? Once this is all done, crop down and save as a JPEG.
All the best
Andrzej
Comment by AndrzejT posted on High ISO settings at 06/03/2009 - 14:41
Hi
I did some work with the theatre group last night and shot on RAW and used the histogram as a guide and tweaking the EV Compensation as suggested to move it to the right.
I did leave the option to go up to ISO6400 and when I was pushing the shutter speed to try to remove camera shake, but when I lost the light I got some serious noise in the picture. That said I have got a few photos which I am pleased with and feel I am moving in the right direction, so thanks for all your guidance and help.
What is the best software for processing RAW photos? Dose everyone use the Pentax software that comes with the camera or should I go straight to something like Photoshop?
I used my trusty SMC 100-300 zoom but have to admit I was still struggling at times. I have an old Sigma 70-210 which is marginally faster than this lens so I might give this a go next time. Some of the stage shots with the standard 18-55 mm II that came with the Camera were quite pleasing as well. I was thinking of selling this but I might hang on to it now.
Thanks again for all the help
Andrzej
I did some work with the theatre group last night and shot on RAW and used the histogram as a guide and tweaking the EV Compensation as suggested to move it to the right.
I did leave the option to go up to ISO6400 and when I was pushing the shutter speed to try to remove camera shake, but when I lost the light I got some serious noise in the picture. That said I have got a few photos which I am pleased with and feel I am moving in the right direction, so thanks for all your guidance and help.
What is the best software for processing RAW photos? Dose everyone use the Pentax software that comes with the camera or should I go straight to something like Photoshop?
I used my trusty SMC 100-300 zoom but have to admit I was still struggling at times. I have an old Sigma 70-210 which is marginally faster than this lens so I might give this a go next time. Some of the stage shots with the standard 18-55 mm II that came with the Camera were quite pleasing as well. I was thinking of selling this but I might hang on to it now.
Thanks again for all the help
Andrzej
Comment by AndrzejT posted on High ISO settings at 06/03/2009 - 11:34
Steve Chasey wrote:
I've not found the lens in AF to be noisy - certainly it doesn't "grind away". As Mike says, best results at F8 and above. With a digi, you can up the ISO at a spin of of a wheel, so unless the light is very bad, you should be able to keep a stop or 2 away from being fully wide open.
I took 2 very different types shots with it - will try to find a mo tonight to post them into the gallery. One is of 2 Sri Lanka squirrels - taken rested on the pool bar at 400mm and the other is a long shot, also at 400mm with a monopod, of a pole fisherman.
But going back to the orginal issue of the thread, I found I had to shoot dancers on stage in Kandy at 2.8 and 800 ISO with the DA*50-135 so as to get my shutter speed up above 1/125. Some of the action was energetic, some not but the best shots for lack of blurr were around 1/180. Stage lighting wasn't stunning, and I had a view of the stage from the balcony - range 25m (ish). Don't think the 135-400 would have been any more useful - like as not most of the images would have been at 200mm or less and I'd had to used a monopod. It's bit heavy to used without some support for more than a few minutes (mind you - pushing towards half the weight of the 150-500 and I don't want to think about trying my SMC K 135-600 handheld....)
Steve
Thanks SteveI've not found the lens in AF to be noisy - certainly it doesn't "grind away". As Mike says, best results at F8 and above. With a digi, you can up the ISO at a spin of of a wheel, so unless the light is very bad, you should be able to keep a stop or 2 away from being fully wide open.
I took 2 very different types shots with it - will try to find a mo tonight to post them into the gallery. One is of 2 Sri Lanka squirrels - taken rested on the pool bar at 400mm and the other is a long shot, also at 400mm with a monopod, of a pole fisherman.
But going back to the orginal issue of the thread, I found I had to shoot dancers on stage in Kandy at 2.8 and 800 ISO with the DA*50-135 so as to get my shutter speed up above 1/125. Some of the action was energetic, some not but the best shots for lack of blurr were around 1/180. Stage lighting wasn't stunning, and I had a view of the stage from the balcony - range 25m (ish). Don't think the 135-400 would have been any more useful - like as not most of the images would have been at 200mm or less and I'd had to used a monopod. It's bit heavy to used without some support for more than a few minutes (mind you - pushing towards half the weight of the 150-500 and I don't want to think about trying my SMC K 135-600 handheld....)
Steve
I would be very happy with these and thanks for digging them out for me to have a look.
I have to admit I have been searching for other makes of lens as there has been some bad press about Sigma on different forums, high return rates etc. Saying that the sample of photos I have seen today on this forum site wouldn't discourage me.
Has anyone got experience of other third party lenses new or secondhand which might be worth looking for?
Thanks again
Andrzej
Comment by AndrzejT posted on Telephoto Zoom lenses and Pentax K20D at 05/03/2009 - 01:30
Mike-P wrote:
I must admit I didn't read all the thread so didn't see the theatre bit.
I agree with Steve on this, I really don't think it will be suitable for that type of work, it's just too slow .. maybe if you could use flash yes but otherwise ..
It is more of an outside lens and like all the big zooms really needs a lot of light to get the best out of it.
Thanks MikeI must admit I didn't read all the thread so didn't see the theatre bit.
I agree with Steve on this, I really don't think it will be suitable for that type of work, it's just too slow .. maybe if you could use flash yes but otherwise ..
It is more of an outside lens and like all the big zooms really needs a lot of light to get the best out of it.
Most of my photography is outside sport and wildlife. The theater work I do for the person who runs the group likes me to do just head and shoulder shots catching the actors expression for promotion work. usually there is plenty of light for the longer focal length lenses from spot lighting.
Please note I have been asking advice about this on another thread on High ISO.
Thanks for the help
Andrzej
Comment by AndrzejT posted on Telephoto Zoom lenses and Pentax K20D at 05/03/2009 - 01:23
Hi iceblinker
Seeing as most of my shots are of a portrait type with the SMC F100-300mm lens what metering method would you suggest, spot, centre weighted or multi-segment.
I have had a play with the setting in 'user' to get the ISO6400 option. If I select the spot metering option when checking the histogram have noticed that this tends to push it to the left, so I guess this is not a good option.
For more general shots of the stage with two or three actors present with a 35-70mm lens what would you suggest? Again in both applications should I turn the noise reduction right up or leave it on weakest and shoot RAW and deal with it at the processing stage (sorry I am an old darkroom man)
Thanks
Andrzej
Seeing as most of my shots are of a portrait type with the SMC F100-300mm lens what metering method would you suggest, spot, centre weighted or multi-segment.
I have had a play with the setting in 'user' to get the ISO6400 option. If I select the spot metering option when checking the histogram have noticed that this tends to push it to the left, so I guess this is not a good option.
For more general shots of the stage with two or three actors present with a 35-70mm lens what would you suggest? Again in both applications should I turn the noise reduction right up or leave it on weakest and shoot RAW and deal with it at the processing stage (sorry I am an old darkroom man)
Thanks
Andrzej
Comment by AndrzejT posted on High ISO settings at 03/03/2009 - 21:33
Just to let you know I had another session with the theatre group last night and took you advice on White Balance set-up. I had a play with a few white balance settings prior to the performance and felt that it was toss up between “normal day light” and “tungsten bulb”.
I opted for the “normal day light” settings as I felt the colours were a little more vibrant and there also appeared to be less noise on the higher ISO settings. I have shot in RAW so I will have to scope to make some changes during processing.
I also did some black and white shots which look promising, as especially during that part of the performance when the light was quite low and the noise was becoming quite apparent in colour shots.
It would have been nice to have taken a white card and seen if I could have set the white balance via the temperature setting as well, to see how this would have come out. Perhaps I will try this next time.
Thanks for all your advice
Andrzej