Scott

This is all I get handheld
but I got to admit though that it was a good 100 ft away from where I was trying to shoot it. In my neighbour's neighbour garden .

Got to be careful or else I might end up being prosecuted for overlooking neighbour's gardens ha lol. Lucky though my next door neighbour is great and I hope his neighbour, whose trees usually are full of wildlife is also great lol. Got to get into competition with him and try to attract some of those into my garden.

Scott
I do follow quite closely your photos in the gallery they are always a joy to look at. I love wildlife and your shots are really wonderful. And you know what? you seem to get better by the day . I remember that lovely blue tit perched on that lovely vibrant green plant that was awsome. I saw it in the isig too , well done.

With regard to continuous shooting, so tell me this, if I choose continuous mode and AF.C and when I press the shutter release button does the AF adjust still with minor movements of either the subject or of the camera? I think I will have to go back and read again in the manual about this, because I think there is something there that with the right setting more advantage could be had.
I took your advice about the Centre weighted setting and also the Hyp P mode and I seem to enjoy more and get better shot in fact. Still trying but that was a good tip, thanks again. Any more tips that would help? you seem to be on the fast path to great wildlife shots .
By the way I need a TC now to add to my little arsenal, now that I have the DA* cutie and the squirrel was taken with it

Scott

That is a lovely shot, but goodness me, handheld? You must have arms like Arnold Schwarzenegger .
Oh I forgot you are an electrician and also you are into fitness huh? . Big muscles there definitely help.

Scott
Sorry to hijack the thread but I just can't help dwelling again on this issue as it seems to be an aspect I need to really improve a lot and get full understanding about it .

I just realised how much the mirror lock up issue is important suddenly after reading Matt's comment, so wanted to as an example here would I be wrong in thinking this first image taken with the mirror lock up 2sec seems better in sharpness because of the delay, compared to the next one, which was taken with the remote but without the 2sec delay?
thank you for all your help

Matt

very detailed explained, thank you very much.
What you have just explained now helps me clarify a particular situation that occurred while I was trying to get some shots of the moon a few nights ago. It was the bit that you mention the 2sec mirror lock up that suddenly made me think what might have gone wrong with what I was trying to capture. Huge difference between the shots I took now with the remote firing without the 2sec lock up and a month ago when I took the images without the remote, as I didn't have one then, but was using the 2sec mirror lock up. The images last month were far far better than what I attempted few nights ago, and I couldn't just understand what went wrong. Now with your explanation along with the SR just gives a total new dimension to the way I will be starting to look at my settings.
I must say, this is one of those moments that suddenly a huge huge light just came on in my mind and all got much much more clearer . I cant wait to go out and try again and give more attention to the 2sec mirro lock up and SR aspects of my shots .

Thank you so much for such a great clarification.

Amin

What happens if I forget to turn off SR when using tripod? Can anyone please just briefly give me an idea?
thanks

Amin

True Shim, might be ways to get around that. But for me as there is no way I could frame the subject without really checking it through the viewfinder so its no use. Before any shutter release I would need to check, frame it and then fire it up. Usually my subjects are so far that all I get is a tiny speck hardly covering the inner circle of the viewfinder .
I wish I could do that what you just mentioned, prepare it and just sit with the remote and if the subject is on location just fire it up. In tha case I would definitely go for something that would wake the camera up.

Shim

About the camera going to sleep, yup, it does unfortunately. There was a discussion going through one of the threads a few weeks ago, and most if not everyone who had the IR remote the consensus was that the camera would go to sleep if the feature is active. Someone had even mentioned that he leaves the sleeping mode off when using IR so that the camera stays permanently on. I actually do not need to do that. I am usually next to the camera and if I decide to fire a shot suddenly and the camera is off I just tap into the shutter button and it wakes it and with my remote on the other hand I just proceed to take the shot.
I personally do not find the fact the camera goes into sleep mode any problem, on the contrary in fact I think it preserves battery which suits my needs.

With regard to wired I haven't tried it, I find it cumbersome having the wire dangling, but that is my personal choice, I hear some here prefer even the cabled remote as its always next to the camera . I just slide the remote on my right pocket and I know its always there.

Before I got this IR remote I had one of these link but wasnt happy with it and returned after a few days and got the seculine one. That one was an RF remote and the main aspect which had attracted me was the fact that I had assumed that being RF even when the camera goes into sleep mode it would wake it up, and also that being RF there was no need of line of sight, in fact it says there that it has a huge range, but my experience was that it wouldn't wake the camera up. I failed then to determine whether it was the fault of the remote or they are just like that, the RF remotes also do not wake the camera up. But I decided to return that mainly because it wasn't focusing, tried everything but it didn't focus so clearly there was a fault with that particular sample that I got, Aparently most if not all remotes are supposed to be able to focus. Thinking about it its not even a feature of the remote that focuses but the camera itself, hence in the menu system you have to select "when using remote focus first before shutter release" so if the option is selected no matter what remote you use it will focus first and then fire. Well, at least in theory this is how it should be, but as we both have tried it works on AF.S only, if we choose AF.C it doesn't focus, so it might be also one of the features

Jackie

The Seculine remote is just ideal for the purposes. Once you set it up on the menu of the camera then you use it, the moment you press the button it immediately focuses and releases the shutter. At first I was even in doubt if it had focused so I put the subject out of the focus and then pressed the button on the remote, heard the buzz of the AF motor and instantly fired the shutter. Then again tried manually focusing the lens for a test and then pressed the remote button, and it didn't budge and fired. Did quite a few tests with macro, that's when you really find that it works great with the camera AF system. I tend to shoot by using focus point right in the centre, so even a fraction of it out when I press the remote it hunts for the precise focus centre point and then releases the shutter. And the great thing I found just by coincidence is I dont need to change any setting at all except put the knob selector from AF.S to AF.C (constant focus) and when I press the remote shutter it fires even if its not on focus. So basically it allows me to use manual focus and press the remote button and it will fire.

hope this helps

Shim
The one I got from SRS is really good. You get the options in a pretty simple way. There are a few more options in the remote but I quite frankly haven't explored them including something to do with the flash firing, not sure though, but as I haven't needed to explore further at this stage I just laid it on the back burner, might come back to it at a later stage. But the features I am using are pretty good in it.