I herby certify myself sober!

You will need a bowl of water at the dev. temp. to keep the tank at the correct temp. For that reason a stainless steel tank is the best for heat transmission.

Most developers give times for 68degF and 75degF (+ degC equiv.)

I used to use 75degF for shorter dev. times, always in a
bowl of water at 75degF.

The developer goes off mostly due to oxidization so store it in
a plastic squeezey bottle or use a wine vacuum pump and stopper.

Powder chemicals are mixed to whatever working volume is given
on the pack i.e. 1 Litre 2.5 Litre etc.

The one that sold recently on ebay for £575 was complete with hood and
bag..... sold to a dealer who hasn't left any feedback even though
the seller has? Ebay_Link

It's because it's a Lucky Number in Japan and also partly because the Chinese character for "delight" looks like "77"

The bluebells look good I don't think it
likes red

Either way works With a 2x Refconverter it's better
to focus on some lettering.

That's no reason to throw RED paint at it

Nice shots!

If BT hadn't chosen the wrong system for Caller ID a lot of
computer software could have been used. Most of it's available,
but just won't work on BT. i.e. software that pops up a picture
and says "Bob's Calling" etc. Some even pops up on your TV.

Looks like they wish they had a garden I like the door

It's well known that focusing accurately (at about 25x FL = Lens test distances)is not possible without using a focusing rack. link

At first I thought I would be OK focusing with magnified LV and then moving back and forth on a small Novoflex rack until I found the points fore and aft where the screen went in and out of focus, and then take the centre point, but it didn't change at all going +/- 60mm so I had to try it on the monster link which allows an enormous 15" of movement. I still had to move a long way for the LV image to go OOF.... the 3" screen resolution must not be good enough. That was still a bit messy

What I do now (for lens testing) using a laptop and Eye-Fi card is focus with magnified LV. Put masking tape on the lens focus ring to stop it moving. Take a shot. Take further shots with the rack moved back and forth +40mm +20mm -20mm -40mm.

Pick the best shot say +20mm and then take a further 3/4 shots bracketed in 10mm increments for each aperture either side of +20mm. Pick the best for final comparison. This also picks up any errors due to focus shift on stopping down.

It sounds a lot but it's actually fairly quick because I only focus the lens once for the whole test and then it's just a case of quickly turning the knob on the focus rack and taking each shot.

The distances +40mm +20mm -20mm -40mm aren't really that critical what matters is that the camera is moved a bit between shots. The target could be moved instead which means a focus rack is not required.