72dpi was the old Mac standard (as mentioned by Bill) so I
expect it's something on the Mac laptop that's changing it

Familiarize your self with the Monty Python sketch..
How to not be seen!

Manual focusing is a nightmare with Rollei's they only started
using plastic screens late on and they weren't very good, plus
the focus knob on the side was very coarse. Minolta Autocords
were much better. Bronicas are quite good.

If ever you want to be NOTICED! doing Street Photography
just use a 6x9 folder at eye level...... every single person
looks at you wondering what the hell is he doing

The big problem with a TLR is that everything is back to front

These are nice sharp captures. The flash isn't too
obvious.

There will be plenty people stood outside the venues offering to:
"Look after yer DSLR and Lenses for Fiver Guv?"

From what I remember they trounced Pentax lenses in reviews
I almost changed over to them for that reason

I think there are extra pins etc. for metering, so I'm not
sure what bodies they work on.

A Tomioka 55mm f/1.4 M42 is better and takes some
beating also has fantastic bokeh. I doubt if the
Fujinon will be much good in that area ......

Edit:

Not much good look here
http://www.flickriver.com/search/fujinon+50mm+f1.4/

For comparison Tomioka 55mm f/1.4 M42
http://www.flickriver.com/search/tomioka+55mm+f1.4/

Beware of sticky iris's on the Tomioka's.... they can
be cleaned though.

I normally use 4500K Custom for flash because it's usually
bouncing around of warm walls, curtains etc.

Indoors with the Eye-Fi card and a laptop I can just take a shot of a grey card
and check the RGB values are right for CB and exposure before
taking any more shots.

Be careful with AWB under trees, it interprets the green light
as fluorescent

Daylight WB is only correct at Mid-Day

Pentax AWB is very accurate.

-

Once you have set the balance with the ExpoDisk still in
place it's easy to take a shot at each aperture to see
what apertures to use to get accurate meter readings.

Grey_Exp_Test_M_28mm_f3-5_and_35mm_f2-8.jpg




This may be of interest to some. I used a couple of 'M'
lenses exposed via the Green Button at every aperture f/2.8 to f/22

I then read the RGB values off the jpegs.

f/5.6 to f/11 either gave the correct exposure or it would be correct
with a small amount of compensation. Outside of that the photo was too
dark. Open aperture readings are way out and also heavily vignetted.